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Yes I have tested In fact if the battery voltage is higher than the float voltage of the victron, the mppt indicates a voltage but does not deliver anything in current. Then I turn on the light and fan and there I see on the BMS that the battery is discharging and the mppt still delivers...

I think I use Rmaddy’s settings when I use my camper. And when I don't use it for several days I will lower the float value.

Very Thx for you parameter. I test it.

I'm asking because I haven't found anything concrete on the forum and maybe this could help others. So I just finalized my new battery lifepo4 (replacing my old one (litokala and daly) with which I had big problems) I have mounted a new 4S in 12V with EVE 280Ah cells. I used the latest BMS JK...

This is an old cell that I no longer use. It was part of an old battery I made that had problems.

i think

I contacted Nami (via whatsapp), very nice. They told me that the version of my BMS is an old version compatible only 8S, that I need to put a DC booster DC 12V-24V. The old versions have 5 interfaces (connection) compatible 8S. The new versions have all 6 interfaces compatible 4S.

Looking at the motherboard we see that it is version 9 Moreover I have the small LCD with the power button so I thought that by pressing the button the BMS should turn on My battery is at 13,31 V so I have to put a load between P- and B+ of more than 15,31 volts Is it safe for my battery...

Hi everyone, I'm building a new battery (I've already built some) I received my EVE280K cells I did my top balance. Then I wanted to connect my JK BMS (brand new) but it does not want to start for information a small bracket was bent on the BMS (but nothing to do I think with the problem)...

i adjust the charge before. The problem is solved. After leaving a small load for a few hours the voltage went back down to 13.31 V. The cells are at 3.275 V. thanks

Okay that's what I was thinking of doing. I plugged in a small 12V led (I only had this on hand) before leaving for work. It consumes 0.41A. I'll leave it plugged in for a few hours like this until the voltage is lowered.

I just received my new cells to make a new battery for my motorhome. I have already installed one that works very well. But now I have a problem. I have connected my 4 cells in parallel to make a top balance. I put my charger at 3.61V and 20A charge. I left it for about 48 hours. My charger was...

Yes, this is certainly a better idea. I think for the heating function I would do it completely apart from the bms with an independent electronic thermostat and heating pads.

Hi I just ordered the bms. But the seller advised me against the version with heating because it would be more fragile than the version without. So I took the version b2a8s20p (instead of ba8s20p-h) 200A

No no worries. Thanks again for your answer

thx à lot for your answer but I go up in 4s for a battery of 12v (10- 14.6). I know that a priori we can mount them with a booster after off grid garage

no the cells were well posed in vertical I am preparing my order (EVE 280k and JK b2a8s20p) and the design of the next one. I will not make the same mistakes (cells in a solid box and closed for the new one)

that's it I'm getting less stupid.....(maybe) so if I stay on a 200 A BMS (knowing that I will rarely pull more than 125 A on it) I just have to change my cable (70mm²) and my fuse ? I have good ?

according to my links a 25 mm² cable "resists" to 214 A on a length of 2 meters so since I have less than 1 meter it will largely resist to 200 A. Hence my choice of a 225 A fuse below the resistance of the cable.

I thought (stupidly): 1) that the battery provides 12 V (the voltage) 2) that the inverter takes the 12V to put it in 220V. 3) if I put a BMS of 200A max, I can protect the circuit with a 225A fuse because at max I will have 200A (if the BMS doesn't work anymore the fuse will be the protection)...

I'm laughing out loud, it's my English that's not so good. in fact on the link given, they are tables for the calculation of the sections of wire in 12 V according to their length (round trip) and of the admissible power (W or ampere).

I had based myself on this type of diagram for the calculation of the sections https://mon-fourgon-amenage.fr/electricite/section-de-cable and http://forum-camping-car.fr/camping-car/142/calcul-section-fil-electricite.html

OK I understand. so for you in my current configuration : * the BMS is not good? * the wire length of 30 cms between the battery and the converter is too small? (it takes 70mm²) * the fuse is too small ? it takes 225 A If I understand correctly.

at the maximum I use 1500 W during a short time. During the tests on my old battery. At maximum I draw 150 A. Most of the time when I looked at the DALY smart bms application I was running at 10A. Only when using the coffee machine I was running at 120 A. It is my biggest machine in consumption...

For information its my installation

It is a pure sinus edecoa inverter in 2000w continuous 4000 w peak. For the solar load it's a victron mptt 30A. For the load when the vehicle is running I use a victron dc/dc 30A.

Hello everyone, I'm opening a post to share my set up and ask for advice too. following the mishap of my first battery. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/be-careful.39299/ So I'm going to make a complete new battery from scratch. Because I don't want to use the undamaged cells as well as the...

Yes, next time I'll ask you for advice

Yes there was my wife sitting on the seat but it has been like that for several months. No, there was no insulating part between the cells but I don't think the blue plastic of the cells was worn out because of the friction because the cells were really well encircled and rest on anti-vibration...

no

here are some photos in the process of being assembled last year. On the pictures there are some wooden plates missing that I added where the cells could touch the seat frame. The cells were completely surrounded by insulating tape...

So some clarifications For the charge with the alternator there is no problem because I go through a charger dc/dc victron energy parameterized for lifepo4 so no problem of high voltage for the charge. It is not connected to the alternator directly. For the cells they were all strapped together...

Without wanting to say that I am good, I think that everything was done in the right way. The cells were laid vertically, the bollards on top. Everything was insulated before special tape and an insulating plate was put on top. Yes, the cells had been tested and balanced. The bms was working...

No, there are no pierced event seals. On the other hand we can see that on 2 lower corners of a cell, there are 2 holes that have opened.

there was just I 12->220 converter that worked to power a refrigerator. This creates a consumption of about 10A max on the battery. But it was recharging because I was driving a I have a victron DC/DC converter that provided it with about 20A. So there was a recharge of about 10A on the battery...