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Oh nice! I have the same battery and thought I was limited to the 800VA.

I know this is an old post but, in your diagram, you specify 1 x SOK 206Ah battery. Since max discharge on that battery is 100A, too low for your inverter 1200VA inverter, do you simply stay well below max wattage?

Victron made a provision for the G-N bond inside the inverter. You simply move the position of the ground wire to a different connector, as shown in the images below (from the inverter manual).

So I opened the inverter today to check whether the ground screw on the chassis of the inverter is for the DC side only and I can see that the ground prong of the AC side is also connected to the chassis of the inverter. Since AC neutrals aren't connected to the chassis of the trailer anywhere...

Oh good! I should have looked when I was in there to know for sure but what if the AC ground is connected to the chassis of the inverter?

@Odom1957: everything you replied is exactly right. To specify, the cord from the RV plugs into the generator when off-grid OR to shore power when available. Never both. The generator has a floating neutral by design so the G-N bond is accomplished by plugging in a plug on which N and G are...

So this is how I ended up proceeding: Connected only shore power - tested GFCI - passed. Connected only inverter - tested GFCI - got open ground. Opened the unit, bonded ground and neutral, tested, passed. Connected only generator to RV - tested GFCI - got open ground. Made a ground-neutral...

I have a small popup camper in which I installed a small inverter to power the outlets from the battery when not connected to shore power or generator. It's really just to conveniently plug in low draw appliances in a conveniently located pre-existing outlets as opposed to using an extension...

I tried the Milwaukee box with the Marine Battery version and the screws that pop out the sides of the box prevent it from fitting properly. They push the sides of the box out so it cannot close.

Well, I've been charging at 14.6V for a few hours. I'll post results and cell voltages when the charge is complete.

After I posted, I got an email from the seller and they gave me: Bulk charge: 14.6V Absorption charge: 14.6V Float charge: 13.8V Charged voltage: 13.8V Why does 14.6 sell more batteries? I don't understand your comment..

I just received a new SOK 206Ah battery I ordered forever ago and I want to charge it with my Victron Blue Smart 15A charger. The charger has a Li-Ion setting but no mention of LiFePO4 anywhere. I read a thread that said that the Li-Ion settings are not applicable to LiFePO4 batteries. Is this...

Oh right, I didn't think about the fact that the specs aren't specifically for LiFePO. Are there other settings I need to worry about? So if I go for the 375VA with 8 gauge wire, would an inline 40A fuse like this be appropriate? Domilay 8 AWG Gauge Maxi Blade Fuse Holder Inline Wire 12-24V...

Thanks. So how would you calculate it? I just went by the Victron datasheet.

What wire gauge and fuse would you use for the 375VA or 500VA to battery? I calculated the following. Is this correct? For the 12/375VA 300W Continuous / .89 Inverter Efficiency / 9.3V Low Cutoff = 36A with a very short run -> 8 Gauge? 36A / .8 Fuse Headroom = 45.30 -> 50A Fuse? For the...

I see. Easy!

My bad, hadn't read the description. What would be a decent alternative to the smartshunt?

So I could just get a cheapo monitor like this? https://www.amazon.ca/Battery-Capacity-Waterproof-Indicator-Backlight/dp/B07C2NJL2V/

I ordered the SOK but it hasn't shipped yet. Is the smartshunt overkill for my setup?

No bluetooth, unfortunately. https://www.sokbattery.com/products/sok-12v-206ah-lifepo4-battery

That's awesome! They seem to move fast so, fingers crossed. I'm amazed it wasn't an option to begin with, considering the user base.

Yes, directly to the router, which powers the dish. No power brick, unfortunately. Here is the recipe, if you're interested: https://www.offgridcto.com/2022/05/23/starlink-on-pure-dc-power/ https://postimg.cc/gallery/wdysDSc

The Starlink dish is powered by the router which is A/C only. The only way (that I know of) to power the system with DC is to bypass the router altogether and power the dish via the ethernet adapter. It required some modding in order to inject PoE but it's complicated, [probably] voids warranty...

Ya, as I wrote that essay (sorry), I realized it might be... When I'm home, I connect it to shore power and the built-in converter it came with, although it's not great, does the job.

All the devices plugged in at once wouldn't pull more than 300W. It's mostly to power Starlink internet and charge the laptop a few times. I'm sure other things will come up but for now, that's pretty much it. Obviously, since reading everything this forum has to offer, I'm conflicted. I went...

I'm about to pull the trigger on a Victron Phoenix 12/500 with a Victron Blue Power Charger 12V/15A but I noticed the MultiPlus 12/500 seems to combine those two in one neat package. This will be used with an SOK 206Ah and a Victron Smartshunt. Am I understanding the function of the Multiplus...

Well, I learned something today. Thank you for taking the time to explain. Much appreciated!

I just realized there's a gap in my knowledge. Can I calculate that? Would it be a problem if I went for a 12/1200 Victron inverter instead?

Probably a Victron 12/800. I'd wire the 2 100Ah in parallel. 100Ah SOK is not an option for me. I'm in Canada and two of those would be $400 more than 2 100Ah Renogy or 1 206 SOK.

Getting ready to pull the trigger on a battery for a simple 12V system (battery + inverter, no solar for now but maybe a panel and mppt down the line). I can get 2 Renogy 100Ah batteries or 1 SOK 206Ah for equal money. What should I do?

Are you happy with them? I can see a fire hazard with no-name cheap china cells and a $34 BMS but Renogy + Victron should be safe, no? From an insurance standpoint, I don't see the difference between branded all-in-one system and a branded battery + branded inverter connected together...

Thank you for the advice and for the time you took to explain. After my original post, I started thinking of swapping the original battery and keeping the WFCO but I tend to do this. I get excited and my small, reasonable plan turns into a big elaborate thing. Sometimes, it's great but in this...

Oh wow, thanks! This was unexpected. I appreciate the math behind the heat dissipation. It makes sense to me. The compartment is spacious and the power center the RV came with is mounted in the other one, along with all the wiring, a 20 gallon water tank, and a water pump. Regarding the Renogy...

I don't expect to connect them in series. The SOK was my first choice, based on Will's recommendation, but in Canada it's $200 more expensive than the Renogy. I'm not stoked about the pouch cells either, nor the horror stories about customer service but choices are limited. After those two...