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isn't ASP the EU version with 230V output which will need Autotransformer to get split phase for US application

i know i will have to adjust the PV series for the new inverter. i am working on adding more panels to cover more loads with this off-grid setup to reduce my grid usage. until that time i will need Grid assist for SRNE 10KW setup and keep sell to grid disabled.

320W Voc=65v (LV5048 - 145v max) 420W Voc=85v (on a different charge controller that can handle up to 180v)

LV5048 4 SunPower 320W panels (2s2p) 4 SunPower 420W panels (2s2p) 4 SunPower 420W panels (4p) (i was scammed on those 420W panels. only 4 work and output about 350W that i have seen. other 4 shows full voltage but when connected it outputs only 1/3 or 1/2 output) 6 100AH rackmount LifeP04...

Hello fellow SRNE ASF48100U200-H 10kw inverter user. i just got my inverter today (still in box) i would like help in setting up the inverter. If any of the users can share their settings that i can replicate so i don't have to experiment that much to get it working. Currently i have MPP LV5048...

Anyone aware if this is grid forming to create a micro grid to connect a grid tie inverter with this one

Is this grid forming inverter? Can I create a micro grid and connect my existing grid tie system to the generator port as many other inverters suggest?

watts247 specifically mentioned that in his video. the inverter he is promoting has two load outputs and powmr has only 3 breakers (grid-in, output, gen)

Slightly different version. You get breakers but loose one output (load2) and that means different hardware/firmware combination which I have not seen any testing video.

Watts247 I believe may have tested it as it says 75w idle consumption

for about $500 more than MPP 12k and this kind of testing video which answers almost all of the questions in this thread and from local source this jumps to the top of my list if and when i decide to add another inverter besides my old LV5048. not that i need that much capacity but the old one...

watts247 has another brand which looks like the same breed of hybrid inverter and lower idle consumption. i have LV5048 which i started as and experiment 4 years ago and have been very satisfied with what i have but looking to push the system a bit more and that is when i started looking at...

i did go through some parts of the test as you mentioned but not all. so now it has become like auto repair for me to figure out what did i miss and i did find out that the MC4 connectors were faulty which i had a workaround and connected to a PWM charge controller. Currently some renovations...

So far with a workaround with faulty connectors and a cheap pwm charge controller I can confirm that only two of three strings are producing. I was able to see 54.5v and 2-3a on the charge controller and two strings show voltage the third string is not showing any voltage. So if I short the...

With a day job and crappy weather not much enthusiasm to do anything. I am leaning towards faulty/cheap MC4 connectors I bought from AliExpress. Hopefully can confirm in a day or two.

i have been using used sunpower panels which generally have high Voc and low amps. my 320w panels have Voc=65v and 435w panels are Voc=85v

PV1 has another set of panels and is pushing full amps. this is on PV2. when i connect this panel(faulty) i see the voltage 56v(a bit lower than working panels) but no amps. when i replace it with another working panel i see 65v-68v and 5a pushing through PV2 same location same elevation angle.

Yes I did

Panels specs approx that I remember Vmp - 72v Imp - 5.9a Voc- 85v Isc - 6.8a On faulty panel In full sun I get Voc - 82-83v Isc - 5a (with a multimeter) Vmp -56v Imp - 0 (when connect to inverter) On working panels in full sun I get Voc - 82-83v Vmp - 65v Imp - 5a

I bought 12 used sunpower 435w solar panels from the seller about a year ago. I checked panels on delivery 2 showed some burn damage which the seller refunded promptly. I had checked the voltage at the time and all were within limit of the panel specs. A few weeks ago I decided to test the...

It should be 145v each.

Only suggestion I could think of is reduce the charge cutoff to 55.2v and that would keep both sets within limit and on the lower end 47v or 48v should be good

Way too complicated and expensive for this thread. you are almost leaning to a BMS functionality.

i had ordered XY-L30A and XH-M604 earlier both come with A version of relay. i ordered JQC3FF-5V-1ZS(5pin) relays to replace the existing relay on the board and modify and switch the the relay contact independent of input...

That looks exactly like xy-cd63l without the case.

what is the dimension of that rack? does not look like a residential use or commonly available in store

most -ve can stay on the "battery" but you still a vin+ and vin- for the board to operate, which is acting as the power source for the board so that means you will have two wires on battery -ve. one from the board Vin- and one from balance -ve. i just think it is more ideal to make it simple and...

I have not traced circuit but it says in the description that it is just a voltage control switch and just switches the output on or off and yes it is just connecting vin+ to out+ via relay.

Because I have a gas furnace that is available to me that I can use, no other reason.

My HP unit is still on grid just the fan is on off grid inverter. Did you try to contact Mr Cool support? Did you check your grounding?

I have the setup when MrCool heat pump is primary and the gas furnace is secondary. I have 2/3 ton setup as 3 ton and set to go to secondary below 25f and everything has been fine so far the last year or so here in NJ. During the cold freeze a few weeks it ran the gas furnace and my ecobee kept...

Most negative BLACK wire and most positive the last RED wire on active balancer. Battery terminals connected to Charger input in the picture (Vin-,Vin+) the load side is connected to active balancer (out+, out-) and it is setup for discharge control mode so the display should be showing OUT as...

connected XY-CD60L yesterday with my 1A JK active balancer which i have for a few years now connected to my old BYD batteries from battery hookup. worked as expected. tuned on at settings in the board 53.5v (it shows about 1v higher than the actual voltage about 52.5v) and turn off at 52.5V...

Not sure if anyone has tried this or not but i am going with XY-CD60L which does what everyone here is trying to discuss about disconnecting the balancer below a certain voltage. After ordering a couple of different boards i will settle on CD60L or the newer version with bigger relay CD-63L. key...

I connected to the inverter and victron smart shunt is reporting 197ah capacity. I am using 47v/55v as my parameters so I am guessing it is full capacity in last two cycles.