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After further troubleshooting it turns out the contactor on the water heater smart switch was faulty (making a whining noise when switched on). Traded out the Amazon/Chinese contactor for an Eaton 661099 and all is good.

Thanks for the links, I will buy some. Yep agreed an oscilloscope will be best (but I’m not considering buying) as not changing brightness could be a high spike or minimal change (meaning the promax is over sensitive)

I have watts set for daily checking, see attached but only shows a volt difference. I have the midnight solar ones for the PV inputs Do you have a link by chance for the digikey ones? And I will purchase to see if it works I will try the bulb. If there is no change dimming or brighter does...

It briefly clicks on and off within a second. But I don’t believe it has been actively protecting often as we haven’t been using the projector often. Unless it’s been protecting in standby

I’m guessing I would need an oscilloscope to know? Attached is a read out from my emporia app at times of cut off. I would rather add something to resolve the issue than take out a protective measure. Are you talking about these...

I installed it, all as should be neutral grounded etc. it’s running on a 15amp breaker with two other outlets that have nothing plugged into regularly. trading it out definitely solves the issue! As long as the “line fault” or the voltage drop doesn’t slowly wrecking the projector…

The resistive load made no difference; however I did confirm that the Panamax MIW-POWER-PRO-PFP is the culprit. I got on a ladder and checked the display on the outlet protector. When remotely turning off the hot tub the outlet protector briefly lit up with “line fault” and then the projector...

Yep, I think you have methods of resolve listed. I find the line conditioner the simplest and most protective for the projector. But it will be the most work in terms of drywalling and decorating to get it in there (which I hate!). I was looking at the Eaton 5P 5P750 750VA/600W 120V Tower Line...

Projector is direct from 120v. Unfortunately it’s the furthest point from the inverters with no direct DC line.

I think you may be correct with the load dump either spiking on return or maybe the sag causing shut down. I am apprehensive about lowering the element due to winter solar here and the need to heat fast when sunny. But May be a last resort solution. A surge suppressor is something I will...

Good to know, I was unsure if a soft start would be of benefit for the heater/hottub element. Currently I have smart switches on 240v contactors on both the water heater and hot tub heater so only one can be on a time. The strange thing is that turning on either large draw appliances doesn’t...

It is strange. Did you find a solution or just let the cameras power cycle?

Hey, so I currently have two LV6548’s in split phase powering my home with two 16s 280ah packs in parallel (off grid). Within the home I have two large loads which I switch remotely as needed. They are a hot tub and electric water heater. Both consume around 5000ws. I tested the inrush surge...

I ended up holding off. I built my own esp32 unit that allows Bluetooth through to home assistant (allowing monitoring away from home). But no options for control or direct communication. There was a jBD option that was open source, but it closed down for the Peter Board (see off grid garage...

Thanks for confirming. Just stumbled on a thread about the Maple inverters and 250v/500v variations. May avoid and go official MPP if possible.

Hey, I currently have x2 MPP LV6548 in split phase setup. In the future I am considering adding another two (so four in total). When adding the other two will they work with a LV6548 clone or a EG4 6500 for example? I am unsure what level of information communicates between them and whether...

Thanks, yes I found another helpful EG6500 thread with similar plans (and link to controller) I will consider upgrading the internal fans, however my consideration was whether or not I could piggy back an external fan communication somehow so that it runs in tandem with the internal ones. If...

Have since discovered that the fans rpm is based on load/amps as opposed to the internal temp of the unit. Has anyone piggybacked an external fan to the PWM wiring on one of the internal fans? I’m hoping this way as the internal fans ramp up, so would my external fan (and shut down).

Wow this is just the information I needed. Thanks for the details and photo to help!

Hey, I found that my two LV 6548 split phase inverters have been hitting their over Temp protection when running high loads for a short period. Currently it’s winter here and my garage is fairly cool. I’ve seen a lot of other posts about hooking up a small AC unit or fans to bring down the...

For anyone else reading this in a similar situation (only relevant in my province). It appears it was either a scare tactic or miscommunication between the electric provider and the utility company. I canceled/permanent disconnected with my electric provider and was told the same as the...

I don’t know, paying this every month for a service I’m not using. I may be better to put the money aside and if I need the grid back, I have cash for the reconnection. What if I remain grid free for 10 years.

I already have a generator for winter so have been topping up instead of using the grid.

Yep. It forks off on my land to a single neighbour, but they wouldn’t be affected

Around $50-60 (cad)

Hey, so for the past year, we have been building an off grid system. All is good and running fine for the past few months with our meter off and using our generator as needed. Now we’re at the point of where we feel comfortable ending our electrical service. However, I was not aware here in...

Just a update for any one with similar issues. I finally got them to work by ensuring they were exactly 3v within each other and turning off the charge/discharge ports on both bms (before turning back on). I am not sure if they will stop charging simultaneously if the 3v deviates again… I may...

If its a disclaimer all good. But I can’t decide if there is something within preventing them from working in parallel. Thanks will have a look and consider what brand to try next

Could it be that it’s because I have no master/slave can communication between packs and the inverters? There is an expensive esp32 board, but I don’t want to double down for it not to work…

Maybe someone has some magical wisdom! If not I’m looking at a JK or a Daley maybe? I need to research a alternative that won’t let me down

i read the same way. i will attach the conversation. i had them both hooked up, top balanced, but nothing worked for them both to draw amps or charge.

Hey, I have x2 jbd 200amp BMS’s paired to their own 16s 280ah packs with a view to parallel charge/discharge. I found that only one would function (charge/discharge) unless I turn the other off, and then it would switch functioning over to that pack. After emailing a few sellers I was told...

Just alittle update. I added the capacitors; however noticed no major difference in the flickering. Will prob just leave them in for now as i dont want to diassemble both inverters again!

My spare BMS with single 4awg cables heated up from the board itself; however not as hot as the x2 4awg indicating heat is produced from the BMS however there is an issue with my cable/lugs. I’ve ordered a new single silicone 2 awg cable to trade out

Thanks for the info and advice. I will remove the bms tomorrow and check. I have a spare/backup bms exactly the same except it has the stock single 4awg cables. I may put it on to see if it has similar issues. If not then it isolates it to the current bms, if it has similar temps maybe it’s a...