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not exactly true. If you run the mini split to where the return air of your central air is, you reduce the return air temp which in turn, reduces the load. I am not exactly sure how much effiicency you'd loose, but aint bad. The water heater is just the easiest of the bunch to do, but...

Net metering varies from localities. I'm grandfathered for at least 10 years for a 1:1 swap.

I use a 7s balaencer... And it seems to do just fine working with a bms. On a cycle it will come on here and there, but it is way less than when I first installed it. Plus I like the little led indicator lights. I don't think I'm hurting too much of anything, and it lets me not have to kick in...

Don't disgree, but these are also professionals. I'd gander to say that half the cheap "USB charge packs" sold by some random name are re-used cells. Wasnt that a big scandal of used cells being re packaged as "new" a few years back? Yes, your right, should you use second hand stuff for...

Aint that the promise of block chain technology?

Oh that is something. It's like inverse solar production pricing. The issue would then be how much can you store in that short periods of time between 1230-1500 I'd consider some of the high charge rate batteries, which is generally opposite of what people use here which are slow charging all...

Your doing it reverse. You want to change it to battery in the daytime, and charge while you sleep. As far as I'm aware for every implementation of time of day use, it is more expensive during the day, and cheaper at night. Thus you want to charge at night and use during the day. There are even...

There are DC powered heating/cooling options as well.

think of the solar as a "pre heater"- it pre heats the water before it goes into the main tank.

Largest limiter on this is the battery capacity. And you still have to make sure you have the grid interconnect if you actually want credits from your utility company. I only get credits with mine in a 1:1 swap.

As far as your question goes: (and answered by someone) delivering power back to the grid is where the problem exists. In fact in my area the power companies are specifically putting meters in which have live data feeds- one possible reason: To know when your pushing power back to the grid with...

I had a bunch of 18650's that I just kinda.. well lazy to shuck them from their cases. Finally did it. These were (most) of the cells: Brand: LG Model: LGAAS31865 Capacity: 2200mAh Rated Voltage: 3.60V Nominal Charging: 4.20V Maximum 1075mA Standard 2150mA Maximum Discharging...

Here's a fun one. I've been using a Goal Zero Guardian- with a Yeti DC to DC charger for over 5 years. Maybe 7... It has a cigarette lighter, to a power brick. The power brick goes into the solar feed port of the Guardian. And the guardian charges the battery. Its worked pretty much...

Ahh. I do recall for all the nickel flat ribbon that is used that it actually has a pretty high resistance value as compared to copper. So.. equal length headers like for an engine so that the flow rates are all matched across all ports. I get the concept, but does it make that much of a...

My guess is that his distribution wires from the BMS to the bike controller were probably ok- if there was resistance there, the wires would get hotter and hotter and cause more resistance, which would cause the batteries to actually have less draw. I forget the math of things, but the general...

What we lack in "manpower" as we get older, we make up in horsepower!! lol

You have about a 1kw pack? I guess 400W could charge that in one day. Sorry for thinking outloud. I was thinking about doing something similar. I had tried to build a DC/DC charger that had some charge profile. The renology wanderer (10A PWM, 2 usb outs, and a digital display) was configurable...

make sure you compress the SPIM's. And no, I don't believe that is the reason your pack flamed out directly. I capacity test each of my 18650's, and it takes like 10 hrs for a cycle. Then I have to let it sit for a week or two after testing to ensure that it can still hold voltage. Then have to...

Good to know that it works.! Just wondering if there is any long term damage from using this? Is this CC/CV technically?

Nobody really knows whether new cells have defects either. It isn't without failure rates, in fact, they can often be higher than in used cells. (Just look at the recalls/warranty claims). Heck, How long is the wait on the Bolt for a new battery pack? Obviously new cells theoretically do not...

Thats a water proof one. THe wanderer is cheaper (I got mine for 10). You can set the cut off as low as 12. The BMS may not cut out on a high voltage condition (18v from your panel). Or it may not charge at all when it sees 18V.

Real question here; if you find a cell, even if its 10 years old, but you do a capacity cycle test on it, and it tests within 90% of its original published spec, and you build your pack to within those acceptable tolerances... how is this bad? Yes, there might be calendar aging issues later on...

The wires would indicate at least something.. (balancer maybe... ). Unless the BMS was bypassed...

I guess it pays to read (doh!). Curious, in this config, wouldnt the BMS have limited the draw/charge from the 18650 pack?

Save yourself some time, they have a couple of 48V units using the SPIM08's... get two and your ready to go~

No, its straight series- I just didnt know how many in series and parallel. Its at least 11P, and at least 7S, but it turns out it is way bigger than that!!!

Yes, agree with you on that. But even so, there are cell fusing options that will work up to 15A. I don't work with anything near that. The Battery Hookup ones are good around 8 Max, with some heat build up and no air flow. But the ones Stucco was using is probably good to like 50A. Lol...

I like load shaving in theory, only because it would allow my small generator to power even large loads. Fortunately, the chances of me using it that way are small. Thus I just use my it in the dumber way (plug my all in one direct to generator and set a low charge rate. )

Or Cell level fusing for 18650 is very thin!!

Curious, is that a 36v or 48v setup? What's the bms you got on there? There's nothing wrong with using recycled cells, obviously bad cells and bad designs can cause problems. Look at all those hoverboard fires. Technology has certainly gotten better as you see less and less of those problems...

That isn't cell level fusing, not in the least bit. Ok I take it back it has a minor amount of "fusing".. if you consider only fusing on one side and not the other.

Would have thought that would go without saying. If you connect something around the bms, the bms cannot be effective. If you bought Battleborn, or any other pre made battery, the bms is inside. They won't let you bypass.

I'm on a 12v system but the batteries can take it. There will be 4 of them. With 4 and a max output of 20a, that would mean about 5a charging for each. Each one also has its own bms

The mppt type systems are probably your easiest solution. If you stay under 1kw it will not be that expensive. 600w may seem like a lot, but unless you have optimal panel installations, expect something significantly less. Shade, angles, etc, and clouds all change things. If you break 1kw...

Do you have any recommendations for my situation?