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Your problems with the relay notwithstanding, have you confirmed that breaking the green wire shuts down the inverter?

Thanks for the update. I'll see if I can take advantage of it. If successful, I'll report results.

I had considered SuperStrut as a way to make the panel brackets easily removable, but only considered whole struts. I like your idea of (apparently) cutting them into pieces. It's much less cost and weight and makes access to all margins easier. Positioning becomes less flexible but, in reality...

I actually never got it working, not because I failed, but because I got distracted with other stuff and never got back to it. Let us now how it goes.

I bought this 2KW inverter directly from Renogy. It's enough for a microwave oven but I don't know if a couple of gel batteries can discharge fast enough to feed that demand. I have 2 SOK 12V LFP batteries in parallel, which can, but I get the impression LFP batteries aren't in your budget. That...

I have one and used to consider it a better use of money, but being wireless is a significant advantage for the Victron. If you have other Victron components and/or have lead-acid batteries though, the Victron Smartshunt provides even more advantage. That said, I use the Aili/(QWork) monitor on...

I have no comments as to your reasoning but question why you have 4ga from the Renogy to the battery pos and 4ga from the battery neg to a common negative terminal, but only 6ga from the common negative terminal to the battery. Should the 6ga leg to the Renogy neg not be 4ga?

Hmm... I looked at regular slot because it was cheaper but I had to buy 8, making the total purchase more costly and wasteful. The long slotted type costs more but is sold individually. I'll reconsider.

I checked out Zoro. Unfortunately, I can't buy qty 4 of 10' aluminum, which is what I need if I adopt the strut approach. Minimum purchase is qty 8.

How much do they weigh?

Thanks. If I ever have 4 batteries, I'll know what to do.

Very late entry on this but in the schematic, two of the battery wires are longer that the other four. Is that just a result of the drawing, and they're actually all matched in length? Or is there a length difference? (I suspect not.)

You won't be paying a little more for quality, you'll be paying a LOT more. I'm not dissing LFP batteries. I own two. But I intend to boondock with them and keep them for a long time. You can buy quality FLA or AGM batteries, treat them well, and they'll last for a very long time.

If you're using it only in transit, why pay for Lithium? It seems to me that a single quality group 24 deep cycle (not dual purpose) would suffice and would be much cheaper.

TEMCo sells refurbished crimpers on ebay for less. I assume they're returned items. I bought a TH0006 there and it looked like new. In retrospect, it would have been cheaper and less frustrating (crimping hassles) for me to use a hammer crimper on smaller gauge wire and buy custom cables for...

I already have Z-brackets so I'll use those. I'm not picturing spring nuts without springs or the use of 3/8 to 1/2 bushings.

I plan to use 4 10' sections to mount 4 58" x 27" panels . The z-brackets are inset from the ends so there's actually more room to mount them than it might seem. I'm thinking of putting a couple stainless fender washers on each bolt to raise the strut slightly off the roof. My intent is to...

Wow! I guess I'll be buying the more traditional finish at a local Big Box. There is actually not much variety in terms of finish and gauge. Commercial building supply stores sell it but in minimum orders and higher prices.

Can you elaborate on the strut product you plan to use? Link?

No. It works fine.

Be careful with the terminal screws. They're cheap zinc stuff and are not replaceable. Make sure your screwdriver fits very well before applying any pressure. A straight screwdriver is less likely to strip the screw head than a Phillips head. Also, the system has a common negative, internally...

I have a Triron 4210n. I bought it used so it's gotta be "old stock", relative to what you have. I corresponded with tech support about firmware updates and was told there is none, so I assume nothing has really changed. Maybe she meant I can't upgrade firmware in the field, but that's not the...

My novice brain can't visualize this. Can you elaborate?

You already have a Dymo, but can it use clear tape? Brother makes one that can produce black print or white print on clear tape, plus a variety of colored tapes. To look good it would need a smooth surface, which plywood isn't. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013DG2FNW

WFCO converter/chargers commonly used in travel trailers bulk charge @ 14.4V, absorption at 13.6V and trickle @ 13.2. Yes, trickle is useless in an LFP battery but it's not harmful if not maintained continuously while in storage, I don't think? I would benefit from the information if someone...

I do have a soft-start device on the A/C and I'm sure I can run it on the inverter because I do the same with my Honda EU2000i. It has less amperage then my inverter. That said, it wouldn't last long and I have no plans to use it that way.

You needn't upgrade the WFCO converter charger because the solar charger will top off the batteries. Not getting fully topped off on some days without solar (charging with a generator) will not harm the LFP batteries. Put your money elsewhere.

Thanks to the generous and patient sharing of expertise here, this is finally done and working in my Rockwood Mini-Lite trailer. Summary: SOK 12V 100A LFP battery x 2, in parallel. Newpowa 180W solar panels x 4, in 2S2P array. 10AWG wire on roof, 8AWG wire from gland to SCC. Epever Triron...

Yeah, I couldn't find it published anywhere.

And this, for a different type of breaker

I just got the attached from Eaton tech support.

For electrical devices that do not specify a torque setting, such as a Cooper-Bussman CB185, is there a standard torque that should be used for connections?

I'm sure it's the 12V feed but suspect it comes from the converter, which may be behind the fuse panel.

If you zoom the photo you can see the large red wire peeking out on the right side. The fuse panel will have to be removed (there appears to be a center screw) to see where that wire goes.

I considered Unistrut or Superstrut for the same reason but I've already got more in this system than I planned. I have 180W panels. I doubt I'll replace them soon. If and when I do, the few holes they leave won't be hard to cover with a bit of sheet aluminum and a bit piece of Eternabond. I...