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diy solar

diy solar

1/0 to 4 awg splice?

Something sounds off. I was able to get 2/0 in the holes in my ASP which is essentially 2 HYPs in a single box.

I wouldn't mess with reducing lugs, splices, posts, etc. If the holes are really to small I'd get a knockout punch and make the hole bigger.
 
Pin terminal might do what you want

Maybe not this one, but an example


You could also take the terminals from an Anderson connector and file the end small enough to fit inside the inverter.

iMarkup_20250420_194421.jpg
 
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I probably should avoid these threads.

Wont ask any questions.
But I think the most cost effective solution for you is some splitbolts and lots of tape.
View attachment 293543

The Home despot sells 130c rubber tape and put about an 1/8 of an inch of tape with a some regular vinyl tape over that.
That's a very good splice that should not give you trouble if done right.

We used these a lot when I was doing electrical work. You need to wrap the h*ll out of them with real electrical tape (not cheap black tape that is actually phase tape, but real electrical tape). Then wrap them some more with rubber insulating tape. When you apply that, you have to stretch it until the tape actually deforms as you stretch. Then wrap all that in more electrical tape. We often did this when splicing industrial equipment in big metal boxes with large conduits entering them.

Alternately you can terminate it with a ring terminal and switch over with a bus bar and use parallel smaller conductors to your inverter. Might look cleaner but cost more, and I 'spect they'd both work equally well.

Just my opinion. Get a second opinion before you do anything I suggest lol.
 
So after getting some very good suggestions, I decided against using the reducers 1/0 to 4ga. [of course after I ordered them.....]

I opted to get some 2 AWG wire with 1/4 inch rings. The connection in the Inverter is very small, and even 5/16 ring looks too big to make good contact with the lug. I will crimp 2 AWG 5/8 ring on the other end. So connecting to the T-class fuse and smart shunt will be correct.

As a side note, I emailed E-W and explained the manual (V1.1) says 2 AWG, even though the unit shipped with 4AWG. Their response was a picture of the old manual (V1.0) that stated 7 AWG was correct (clearly a typo). Not sure I want argue that 7 AWG will start a nice fire at 100 Amps.

The 2 AWG is more than enough margin for 5000w at 120V. In reality, I am only using one 15A breaker and one 20A breaker for my loads. (max 4200W). Neither of which will even be close to capacity.

Thanks to all for helping me. If I get the *bug* and start building a larger system, I will be better informed on the details I missed this time around.
I still feel the E-W Hybrid 5000W Inverter (White Unit) and 100AH battery was a good purchase on the eBay site for $1200 with free shipping.

Loaded a Raspberry Pi 5 with Solar Assistant. Let the fun begin!
 

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