1-2kw Van system, best way to wire shore power

[doodlesack]

So I am looking to build this Van system and I think I have all the components I would like to use for this build. I've made a diagram just to show my thinking.

Q1 If I wire in the AC-DC charger to the shore power inlet, it automatically turn on every time its plugged in. Is it worth adding a switch, that can disconnect it, say if the battery bank was fully charged? I see no reason to have power on and a device running if it's not needed.

Q2. As the inverter has a UPS/ATS to shore power when its available, this negates the need for an separate ATS which supplys power to the fuse/breaker unit?

Q3. Let me know if you think there is anything else I should consider in this setup! Thanks!

(drawing doesn't include fuses/switches)

 

[mikefitz]

If I wire in the AC-DC charger to the shore power inlet, it automatically turn on every time its plugged in. Is it worth adding a switch,

As you are in the UK your van electrics should comply with electrical regulations. The battery charger will be supplied with a UK fused plug, so connect to a switched 13A outlet.
The charger needs it's AC supply directly after the input consumer unit, it cannot be on the AC distributed system if the inverter also powers the distributed system.
The regulations require the consumer unit to be fitted with a double pole RCD and double pole MCB, if fitting a RCBO, it's must be double pole type.
So, inlet socket, connected to double pole consumer unit, connected via a 13A outlet and fused plug to charger.
AC to rest of the system from this consumer unit . Typical would be RCD along with a 6A MCB for the charger and 10A MCB for the rest of the vans AC.

Inverter. A 2000 watt inverter at full power needs around 170 amps, your single battery is rated at 100 amps continious.
If you have an inverter supplying a distributed set of outlets and multiple appliances it needs to be RCD protected. For a RCD to function the inverter requires a neutral to earth bond, (only active in stand alone mode) at the inverter output. Unless Renogy have redesigned the 2000 watt inverter, the instructions specifically state that this is not allowed.
Auto transfer inverters that correctly add the neutral bond when in stand alone 'island' mode are not easy to find, the Victron Multiplus is recomended. ( Note the Multiplus is an inverter charger so no additional charger is needed).

 

[doodlesack]

As you are in the UK your van electrics should comply with electrical regulations. The battery charger will be supplied with a UK fused plug, so connect to a switched 13A outlet.
The charger needs it's AC supply directly after the input consumer unit, it cannot be on the AC distributed system if the inverter also powers the distributed system.
The regulations require the consumer unit to be fitted with a double pole RCD and double pole MCB, if fitting a RCBO, it's must be double pole type.
So, inlet socket, connected to double pole consumer unit, connected via a 13A outlet and fused plug to charger.
AC to rest of the system from this consumer unit . Typical would be RCD along with a 6A MCB for the charger and 10A MCB for the rest of the vans AC.

Inverter. A 2000 watt inverter at full power needs around 170 amps, your single battery is rated at 100 amps continious.
If you have an inverter supplying a distributed set of outlets and multiple appliances it needs to be RCD protected. For a RCD to function the inverter requires a neutral to earth bond, (only active in stand alone mode) at the inverter output. Unless Renogy have redesigned the 2000 watt inverter, the instructions specifically state that this is not allowed.
Auto transfer inverters that correctly add the neutral bond when in stand alone 'island' mode are not easy to find, the Victron Multiplus is recomended. ( Note the Multiplus is an inverter charger so no additional charger is needed).
View attachment 287009

Thats great, I was planning on using the double pole type breaker/sockets. Thanks for highlighting it's importance with UK regulations, I was not aware of this. I was simply planning to do so due to safety/information learned from other guides.

My plan was to start with a 100a battery, to last me through the summer, and when winter comes get another 100a battery as this is when I think I will need the full inverter capacity.

Didn't know that about Renolgy! Multiplus would be nice but I felt it was out of my budget. Maybe I could look for a second hand unit.

All of this pushes me to wanting a 48v system, as there is so much more capacity available for the cost. But maybe for now I will bite the bullet and pay for a less capable system for simplicity, and then on the next build attempt 48v.

Thanks for the info.

 

[HRTKD]

The way the SmartShunt is represented in the diagram, it's doing absolutely nothing.

All connections for charge and load need to be on the Load side of the SmartShunt. No connections (except for the SmartShunt) are at the battery.