$10 controller

[Pearce80]

I have a $500 controller and $10 both doing same thing so basically makes me complete idiot.
How much testing has anyone done on these very available low cost controller to justify spending 1000% + more for device doing same that?
Is this based on mindset get what you pay for? A logical that is fundamentally true but also very exploited in this country.
I’m not saying these controller are equal in quality but neither is a Toyota and Royce but both get you from A-B without out much resistance, if any.
If I had to replace this controller once a month would takes years to justify $500 +version.
Goal of any good marketing campaign is to fool you into buying something you don’t need. One look around at stuff/junk everyone has shows how successful this is and feeling of being play should be in all of us in lots of ways especially now a days were if this isn’t noticed you’d miss freight train coming though your living room.
What could possibly be the difference for such a ridiculous increase in value that may or may not be needed.
Another option I assume to hear is low cost is fire hazard and not SAFE.. Ok everyone consumed by fear and that card is played every day now.
Who has actually put some time and testing into these low cost controllers for real world results?
Failure rate?
Fire?
Damage batteries?
Performance?
One thing must would probably agree on it definitely looks cheap

 

[BradCagle]

Can we have details of the two controllers? Maybe you're on to something, but we may never know unless you reveal the secrets

 

[45North]

I agree!
I got a cheapo SCC for my hobby system and it worked ok for what I wanted till I gave it to my friend to bail his boat.
I even used the built-in timer for some yard lights on the Load terminals.
I couldn't see being upsold either.

Edit:
The programming of the timer worked fine once you figured out the "Chinglish" language of the instructions (Would it really cost that much to run it by an English speaking editor?)

 

[Wjm1964]

I agree with what you are saying, the crazy prices demanded for certain branded products is really down to the affiliate programmes which pays people to promote their products. Many youtube solar related channels are simply commercials disguised as reviews from "experts" who are just savvy salesmen. They usually contradict themselves too if you listen clearly. I don't buy product A over product B because someone on youtube says its great, I buy what I need and direct, not via Associate links. There's too many biased reviews, even those that proclaim product A is rubbish, they will then say product B is brilliant. Reality is product B is probably giving higher commission.

 

[BradCagle]

I agree with what you are saying, the crazy prices demanded for certain branded products is really down to the affiliate programmes which pays people to promote their products. Many youtube solar related channels are simply commercials disguised as reviews from "experts" who are just savvy salesmen. They usually contradict themselves too if you listen clearly. I don't buy product A over product B because someone on youtube says its great, I buy what I need and direct, not via Associate links. There's too many biased reviews, even those that proclaim product A is rubbish, they will then say product B is brilliant. Reality is product B is probably giving higher commission.

Agree I do know what you're saying. I've done several charge controller reviews. But I haven't been paid anything.

I usually review controllers in the $100-$300 range. And many of them have been unsatisfactory.

I need to test the upper tier controllers at some point, to see what the hype is about.

 

[JWLV]

All controllers do one thing, charge your batteries. Most of them do it just fine whether it's $10 or $500. The more expensive ones have more features, such as Bluetooth or WiFi, PWM or MPPT, support higher voltages & amps, better control and customization over settings, and better charging efficiency.

In my experience, the $100+ ones tend to last longer. I've had two $20 controllers drop dead over the years. I've replaced them with slightly better ones (around $75) mainly because I wanted more control over the settings.

 

[GLC]

I have a $500 controller and $10 both doing same thing so basically makes me complete idiot.
How much testing has anyone done on these very available low cost controller to justify spending 1000% + more for device doing same that?
Is this based on mindset get what you pay for? A logical that is fundamentally true but also very exploited in this country.
I’m not saying these controller are equal in quality but neither is a Toyota and Royce but both get you from A-B without out much resistance, if any.
If I had to replace this controller once a month would takes years to justify $500 +version.
Goal of any good marketing campaign is to fool you into buying something you don’t need. One look around at stuff/junk everyone has shows how successful this is and feeling of being play should be in all of us in lots of ways especially now a days were if this isn’t noticed you’d miss freight train coming though your living room.
What could possibly be the difference for such a ridiculous increase in value that may or may not be needed.
Another option I assume to hear is low cost is fire hazard and not SAFE.. Ok everyone consumed by fear and that card is played every day now.
Who has actually put some time and testing into these low cost controllers for real world results?
Failure rate?
Fire?
Damage batteries?
Performance?
One thing must would probably agree on it definitely looks cheap

Here you go.

 

[Don B. Cilly]

I use a mid-priced Epever, mainly because I can set Max Voltage in it.
I wouldn't want do do without that function.
-

 

[BradCagle]

I use a mid-priced Epever, mainly because I can set Max Voltage in it.
I wouldn't want do do without that function.
-

I concur very strongly. I absolutely will not use a controller that does not allow setting the voltage. That auto detect stuff is a joke.

Only exception is if I'm using a system voltage that = the max the controller will do.

 

[HRTKD]

Programmability is critical, in my opinion. Who knows what that cheap controller is set to do.

The more expensive solar charge controllers are likely to have a longer warranty and never need it.

 

[再生可能 エネルギー]

I have a $500 controller and $10 both doing same thing so basically makes me complete idiot.

I noticed those cheap SCC and I was considering building a PV tester with one of those and some resitors.
But I noticed that the VoC was very low, like around 12 V, so I could not test some used 50 VoC PVs.

 

[Pearce80]

Can we have details of the two controllers? Maybe you're on to something, but we may never know unless you reveal the secrets

Hi. Sure. Outback vs Amazon special. Outback definitely looks of higher quality with good metal material which I’d say good materials also used inside.

 

[Pearce80]

Hi. Sure. Outback vs Amazon special. Outback definitely looks of higher quality with good metal material which I’d say good materials also used inside.

Seems like some long term tests are in order so will run them head to head daily. I’m generally easy on them and stay well below rating.
I’d prefer having voltage setting as well, so top feature I agree.

 

[BradCagle]

Hi. Sure. Outback vs Amazon special. Outback definitely looks of higher quality with good metal material which I’d say good materials also used inside.

Can you provide a link to the "Amazon Special"?

 

[wholybee]

You can successfully charge a battery by directly connecting a solar panel to a battery, and using a DMM to watch the voltage and disconnect it when fully charged. A lead acid battery is fully charged a 12.7 volts, and floats at 13.8. So, you could make a charge controller that simply disconnects at 13.8v volts and reconnects at 12.7v. This is how most super cheap chargers work. There is no PWM involved or MPPT involved, just a switch. Sometimes it isn't even a FET, but an actual relay.

For a lead acid battery around 100Ah and a single panel of about 100W, this works perfectly fine. Probably without any reduction in battery life. For any other chemistry or anything larger, the advantages of a PWM or MPPT charger start to make a lot of sense.

 

[Don B. Cilly]

Substrate wrote a rather funny story on the subject a while ago :·)
-

 

[BradCagle]

You can successfully charge a battery by directly connecting a solar panel to a battery, and using a DMM to watch the voltage and disconnect it when fully charged. A lead acid battery is fully charged a 12.7 volts, and floats at 13.8. So, you could make a charge controller that simply disconnects at 13.8v volts and reconnects at 12.7v. This is how most super cheap chargers work. There is no PWM involved or MPPT involved, just a switch. Sometimes it isn't even a FET, but an actual relay.

For a lead acid battery around 100Ah and a single panel of about 100W, this works perfectly fine. Probably without any reduction in battery life. For any other chemistry or anything larger, the advantages of a PWM or MPPT charger start to make a lot of sense.

Yup like this $8.59, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y24MR4N?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

[45North]

Can you provide a link to the "Amazon Special"?

Try "PWM solar charge controller" and you should get lots of cheapies.

 

[BradCagle]

Try "PWM solar charge controller" and you should get lots of cheapies.

Thanks for clarifying, I have a few of those kicking around. I've used them in small systems, they work fine.

Would be interesting to get a 48v model, and see how well it does on one of my 48v systems. I might just do that, and shoot a video.

 

[BradCagle]

So if you have panels in parallel, and fairly matched to your system voltage, I think it's practical to do PWM.

Now when you go series/higher voltage this is where MPPT probably saves you money, or at least it's a wash.
When you factor in large gauge wire, fuses/breakers, combiners, branch connectors, etc. required for parallel that stuff adds up pretty fast.