100Ah Fortune Cells
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Sgt Raven
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You might want to list where you bought them from and price.
Sorry, if I wasn't clear. I bought them from Will's link on his website. Here is the link http://bit.ly/100Ah-Fortune-Battery.
I paid $1860 plus $270 in shipping.
I'll be doing a capacity test soon and I'll update this thread.
Sgt Raven
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How far were they shipped? That's only like 110-120 lbs I've been out of the trucking business for 8 years, the rates sure have jumped. What size was the box they were shipped in?
They were shipped in (2) 2' cube boxes at about 60lbs each. I had them shipped 2 day.
Sgt Raven
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That explains the shipping cost. You can have Fast, Good , Cheap shipping, but you only get to pick 2 of the 3.
Sgt Raven
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Do you have a break down of the shipping costs? Was there a Haz-Mat fee included?
For me, to San Jose, I think regular UPS ground would be 3-5 days. I wonder what that would cost.
Ulmo
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Does anyone have the charge curve? I just want to know between 70% and 30%; no need to go 100% to 0%! I wish Will did data dumps of his cell tests.
I also bought 32 of the Fortune 100Ah cells. I love them too because they're my first cell pouch LiFePO4 batteries and they seem to be nicely built with the strong studs. Shipping is expensive but they arrive pretty quickly: the less time in transit the less damage as far as I'm concerned. If UPS is not delivering them to you to sign, then UPS requires them to be shipped to special UPS holding locations qualified to hold Lithium Ion batteries, and I am happy to pick them up at such locations (or, alternatively, just be at home when they come by, but I tend to have UPS hold them at their ship centers if I'm not sure I'll be home).
I'm having difficulty finding out the charge curve. I've never seen a spec sheet other than what is posted on the sales page.
Since I have been waiting months for a BMS (and barely got one 4S one today which I stuck on them for experiments) and still haven't selected a charger and inverter, I was careful not to discharge them quickly. I've been running ham radios on them for a month and I don't think they've even gone down a few % of state of charge. But I don't know exactly what the charge curve is going to be like. I want to be extremely conservative with the state of charge, such as only 70% to 30%, mainly so that the batteries last as long as possible. I am attempting to put in a heating pad to keep them up around 35ºC to 45ºC when in use, but that hasn't happened yet; they just sit at nominal 72ºF in my apartment right now; since they're on the ground, likely less; the BMS says they're near 68.2ºF, which is 20.1ºC, nowhere near the optimum of 35ºC - 45ºC that LiFePO4's seem to be happy with in cars, and maybe close to that in home storage? Maybe that's a good reason to mount them high up in the room to catch some of the higher temperatures in the room, but then that would make my shelf top-heavy. However, I built a very strong metal shelf with good diagonal braces and attached to the walls of the room, so maybe that's OK. I still am going to have some fun specing out and building a box for them, and a fire vent and spark arrestor in case of problems, and heating pad for cold days when the room drops in temperature too much.
I'm strongly moving toward a 48V setup (and already spent a good amount of money on a 40 amp 48V DC nominal - 13.8V DC Astron converter, and am specing out various 48V nominal chargers and inverters and charger-inverters), so something like 16S x 2, probably with two 16S BMSs then put into parallel, if that's possible (since I think cell-level fuses are dangerous and expensive in this case). Is there an inexpensive BMS that can balance two "48V" batteries, or is it just easier to bond them together (with maybe a fuse on each) and let that handle the matching since the cell-level safeties will still be done by BMSs? Will BMSs freak if their output port has working power on it from the "other pack" if it itself had a failure, or is operating in good condition?
I'm thinking of getting a DC heater. I found a few good 12V nominal DC heaters, but since I'm moving toward a 48V DC system, I'd want a 48V DC heater. I wonder if I can just feed 51.2V DC nominal into my existing 120VAC resistance heaters and get 42% of their design power out, and not use an inverter. That would be 3 DC loads on the DC bus of these battery cell packs; I'm pretty much planning to have the battery pack DC bus be shared by a variety of DC users, so I guess I'd have to design a bunch of soft shutoffs for the various DC loads so I don't have to depend on tripping the hardware shutoffs in the BMSs in case of nearing limits.
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Sgt Raven
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The charge/discharge curve for any 3.2V LFP cell should be real similar. In the range you're asking, it should be pretty flat. That is well outside the area, where you're in the "Knees", either on top or the bottom.
The charge curve is identical for these cells and all the other LFP chemistries.
Like all the other cells made with this chemistry, you must parameterize your charge curve on voltage and current and direction of current. So it is actually a collection of curves, rather than one curve.
Like all the other cells made with this chemistry, you must parameterize your charge curve on voltage and current and direction of current. So it is actually a collection of curves, rather than one curve.
Ulmo
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Sgt Raven & nebster, thank you. I have been moderately researching this issue, and what you both said seems to make sense and I had suspected both those things, but wasn't sure. Now I have to find a good charger.
I'm trying to decide between Victron and Sigineer unless I'm overlooking something.
I'm trying to decide between Victron and Sigineer unless I'm overlooking something.
