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diy solar

10K PV and Solark Install

ArthurEld

Solar Wizard
Joined
Aug 3, 2020
Messages
2,271
Location
Palm Harbor, Florida
I finally got my system delivered from AltE.
The main items I am installing are 30 Q Cells 330W solar panels and a Solark 12K hybrid inverter.

I am going to start by mounting the Solark and a 10 circuit Reliance Switchbox.
The new switchbox will go in place of the 6 circuit box there now.

The Solark will go between the new switchbox and the light switch. There will only be 3" between each box and 3" between the Solark and the light switch.
In order to have the Solark display at close to eye level, the bottom of the Solark will be even with the bottom of the light switch.

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Have fun with the install.... I just finished up mine. Same 12k unit but with 13k of solar. I have seen several installs using 6AWG. I opted for the factory recommended 4 AWG. My main reason is due the the extreme high temps here in AZ.
Only been fully up and running for a few days, but I can tell you that it is a very nice system to work with.
 
I made a little progress today and mounted the Solark, transfer switch and AC disconnect. Nothing is connected.
Putting that 80 lb beast up myself was tricky. It doesn't look so huge in my picture though.
I moved the smaller transfer switch out of the way and mounted the 10 circuit Reliance Pro Tran 2.
The transfer switch wires will go in though the side of my main breaker panel.

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I started getting quotes a couple years ago.
But I bought 280Ah cells late last year and started putting together 48V batteries.
I've been trying to do as much as I can myself but I have help if I need it.
 
I started getting quotes a couple years ago.
But I bought 280Ah cells late last year and started putting together 48V batteries.
I've been trying to do as much as I can myself but I have help if I need it.
...that’s a long timeline. Have you been intentionally pumping the brakes or...life?
 
I just couldn't bare to buy a system that wouldn't work when the grid goes down.
Installers charge too much for battery systems.
So, I decided to do it myself.
A leisurely approach? I can relate. Good luck with your build. Excited to see the finished product. I’ll share pics of my soon-to-be project once I get back to it. Sometimes life gets in the way.
 
I finally got my system delivered from AltE.
The main items I am installing are 30 Q Cells 330W solar panels and a Solark 12K hybrid inverter.

I am going to start by mounting the Solark and a 10 circuit Reliance Switchbox.
The new switchbox will go in place of the 6 circuit box there now.

The Solark will go between the new switchbox and the light switch. There will only be 3" between each box and 3" between the Solark and the light switch.
In order to have the Solark display at close to eye level, the bottom of the Solark will be even with the bottom of the light switch.

View attachment 37306

View attachment 37308

View attachment 37310
That looks like it'll be a nice setup! I have been eyeing the Qcells panels as well. Haven't pulled the trigger on that part of my build yet. Enjoy!
 
A leisurely approach? I can relate. Good luck with your build. Excited to see the finished product. I’ll share pics of my soon-to-be project once I get back to it. Sometimes life gets in the way.
I have found that the more time I put in to research the more money I save. But, if I would have just had a system installed two years ago I would have already saved $2000 in electricity.
 
I'm trying to decide if I should use a wiring trough.
My planning calls for EMT conduit. I was looking for T fittings and 90 degree fittings and they are hard to find for larger conduit.
I don't know about bending conduit or threading conduit.
 
I'm trying to decide if I should use a wiring trough.
My planning calls for EMT conduit. I was looking for T fittings and 90 degree fittings and they are hard to find for larger conduit.
I don't know about bending conduit or threading conduit.
I had the same hesitance with regard to bending conduit. I ended up using armored cable, 10/3, since my DC voltage was high enough to minimize voltage drop. For the AC side my inspector said I could just utilize romex, no conduit, PVC or metal needed. My battery cable did not need to be shielded in metal since it is considered low voltage per NEC, < 60v, but I ended up feeding it through 1" armored cable just for the sake of it. At the end of the day it looked like crap, wires everywhere. So I bought a 6x6x48" and 6x6x36" wireways to "clean it up". I wish I did that from he beginning since it would've save me a ton of time. Note -you need to buy these things from your local electrical supply house. HD or Lowes did not have them in my area and ordering them from an online vendor would've cost a ton to have them shipped. So it was cheaper for me to purchase them locally.
 
I had the same hesitance with regard to bending conduit. I ended up using armored cable, 10/3, since my DC voltage was high enough to minimize voltage drop. For the AC side my inspector said I could just utilize romex, no conduit, PVC or metal needed. My battery cable did not need to be shielded in metal since it is considered low voltage per NEC, < 60v, but I ended up feeding it through 1" armored cable just for the sake of it. At the end of the day it looked like crap, wires everywhere. So I bought a 6x6x48" and 6x6x36" wireways to "clean it up". I wish I did that from he beginning since it would've save me a ton of time. Note -you need to buy these things from your local electrical supply house. HD or Lowes did not have them in my area and ordering them from an online vendor would've cost a ton to have them shipped. So it was cheaper for me to purchase them locally.
Thanks for the info solardad. When I placed my boxes I was planning for flexible conduit but I noticed the approved plan says EMT conduit.
Like you say, any way other than the trough is a lot of work and still looks like crap.

I just started looking at troughs but the ones I saw have knockouts on the bottom. I don't know if I would just turn it upside down or if there are some with knockouts on the top. Or if I should put in my own holes.

This one looks good but I think 4 x 4 is good for me
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Thanks for the info solardad. When I placed my boxes I was planning for flexible conduit but I noticed the approved plan says EMT conduit.
Like you say, any way other than the trough is a lot of work and still looks like crap.

I just started looking at troughs but the ones I saw have knockouts on the bottom. I don't know if I would just turn it upside down or if there are some with knockouts on the top. Or if I should put in my own holes.

This one looks good but I think 4 x 4 is good for me
View attachment 38060
I punched my own with a kit from harbor freight. Note a 4x4 will require a bend since it’ll be too shallow in lining up with the sol-ark. A 6x6 should allow for a straight shot, no bends. In the pic. Notice the straight conduit to the trough.
 
I punched my own with a kit from harbor freight. Note a 4x4 will require a bend since it’ll be too shallow in lining up with the sol-ark. A 6x6 should allow for a straight shot, no bends. In the pic. Notice the straight conduit to the trough.
Yes, I did measure the holes in the Solark and they are actually 8.5 inches from the wall.
The trough in the picture is probably 10"
I guess a big one wouldn't be in the way but I sure don't need one that big.

Every decision takes days for me to figure out. ?

This video has a lot of info about troughs. I also noticed Engineer775 uses DC disconnects.
He seems to be dealing with stricter codes than I have.
 
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I've been thinking and thinking about the conduit.

The wires going in and out of the Solark don't each need a separate conduit.

So something as simple as this could work for connecting the electrical panels.
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or this
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I could probably make it a little prettier. Maybe I could add a junction box or wire pull box too.
I also have to work on putting holes through the cinderblocks for the RSD and possibly the PV wires if I don't go through the attic.
 
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