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110v removable charge cable

hmitchell515

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Sep 11, 2021
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I am building the Milk Crate 2.0. My question is, can I get some kind of connector that I can remove the 110 input cable so it is not just hanging out of the power supply box? I would like to be able to charge it, unplug it from the crate like the store bought units. I just don't know what the best connections to use so I don't restrict the charging.
 
I am building the Milk Crate 2.0. My question is, can I get some kind of connector that I can remove the 110 input cable so it is not just hanging out of the power supply box? I would like to be able to charge it, unplug it from the crate like the store bought units. I just don't know what the best connections to use so I don't restrict the charging.
Do you mean 120 volt alternating current at 60hz?
 
I believe so. In the build Will made he used a extension cord, "pigtail", end hard wire into the charge controller. I was wondering if I could instead of hard wiring the extension cord pigtail have a connect coming out of the charge controller I could plug the pigtail into to charge, once charge unplug and place the "pigtail" somewhere safe not hanging out of the milk crate.
 
Okay, I was wondering if I could use this type of connection. I guess my next question is does the restrict the charge rate or the amount of energy being put into the battery. I very sorry for the ignorance. I watch the videos and he talks about how fast or how many amps can be pushed, so I don't want to restrict or cause issue with what he thinks is a perfect system. I can build it the exact same if I need to, just thought it would convenient to no have wires hangout that could get snagged. I am putting this on my camp trailer so less snag is better.
 
You have to use cords/plugs that can handle the current you are going to put through them. First find out the max current the device can pull before you wire it up.
 
You have to use cords/plugs that can handle the current you are going to put through them. First find out the max current the device can pull before you wire it up.
It's probably best I just build it like he did and be happy. Thank you
 
It's probably best I just build it like he did and be happy. Thank you
You have to use cords/plugs that can handle the current you are going to put through them. First find out the max current the device can pull before you wire it up. You don't want to pull 30 amps through a 15 amp cable or plug or outlet.
 
You have to use cords/plugs that can handle the current you are going to put through them. First find out the max current the device can pull before you wire it up.
well most computer cords can handle 10 amps. so that would be 1,200 watts or 100 amps @ 12v or 50 amps at 24v. I HIGHLY doubt he will have that large of a charger
 
well most computer cords can handle 10 amps. so that would be 1,200 watts or 100 amps @ 12v or 50 amps at 24v. I HIGHLY doubt he will have that large of a charger
My inverter/charger can pull 50amps from the grid connection, but I can limit it to as low as 7.5 amps. I have no idea what he is running.
 
Yes, it is the exact build of the milk crate 2.0 Will built.

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Nilight 2 Pack Car Cigarette Lighter Socket DC 12V Waterproof Power Outlet Adapter Replacement with Terminals Wires and Screws for Marine Boat Motorcycle, Boat, Car,Truck, RV, ATV,2 Years Warranty​

 
Well, that power supply is 10A.. At 12V that's 120W, 130W at 13V

So at the primary side, add some conversion losses, but still it would be around 150W, <1.5A at 110V

Any C14 connector can handle that without any issue.

Personally, I would recommend using a proper charger, and not abusing a powersupply as charger (which are 2 different things). With a power supply set to eg 14.2V you will eventually overcharge the cells if left on once the cells are full.

Also, I don't like running those chinese powersupplies unattended, I would stick with a decent brand (Victron, Meanwell, Ctek, just to name a few)
 
I know that I am supposed to set the power supply to 14.4 volts from the revised video from the first build. I think he had it wired different and the charge controller was set at 30 volts.
 
Well, that power supply is 10A.. At 12V that's 120W, 130W at 13V

So at the primary side, add some conversion losses, but still it would be around 150W, <1.5A at 110V

Any C14 connector can handle that without any issue.

Personally, I would recommend using a proper charger, and not abusing a powersupply as charger (which are 2 different things). With a power supply set to eg 14.2V you will eventually overcharge the cells if left on once the cells are full.

Also, I don't like running those chinese powersupplies unattended, I would stick with a decent brand (Victron, Meanwell, Ctek, just to name a few)
I really am trying to understand all this. So, as long as I stay in the same realm (10amp) as the DROK powers supply, just use one of the ones you suggested I should be fine to use the C14 type cable? Even if I use the DROK until it goes away I should be fine?
 
Well, that power supply is 10A.. At 12V that's 120W, 130W at 13V

So at the primary side, add some conversion losses, but still it would be around 150W, <1.5A at 110V

Any C14 connector can handle that without any issue.

Personally, I would recommend using a proper charger, and not abusing a powersupply as charger (which are 2 different things). With a power supply set to eg 14.2V you will eventually overcharge the cells if left on once the cells are full.

Also, I don't like running those chinese powersupplies unattended, I would stick with a decent brand (Victron, Meanwell, Ctek, just to name a few)
Can you please elaborate on this statement please? I am assuming this would bring power in via solar or 110 plug then be directed to the power supply?

"Personally, I would recommend using a proper charger, and not abusing a powersupply as charger (which are 2 different things). With a power supply set to eg 14.2V you will eventually overcharge the cells if left on once the cells are full."
 
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