12/3000 multiplus II and 8 x 280EVE. What BMS?

nekit

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I’m building a similar system. I’m looking for a 150A BMS that has low temp shut off. This system will be installed in a camper van. Did you find anything?
 

TAS CPA

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A lot of this answer will depend on your ability/skills/knowledge. REC Active came highly recommended to me because of its interaction with Victron. I even purchased. But, when went to actually install the system, there was essentially zero knowledge available at my "moron" level to allow me to confidently set it up and use it.

So, my current iterations are using the JBD/Overkill style. They were extremely simple to set up and get working.
 

nekit

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I would said go with the two of the 150A BMS' from JBD/Overkills style. One BMS for each 4S batteries and parallels them for redundancy.
Do any of these JBD/Overkill style BMS have low temp shut down? Thanks
 

frthompson

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I am doing the same thing an I'm waiting for my cells and bms. I decided to go with configuring 2 4S batteries each with a JBD 150A BMS, and yes you can get the JBD BMS with with low temperature disconnect. Also gave consideration to Electrodacus and Chargery BMSs in a 2P4S because of their ability to control the multiplus, but decided to go the simpler route.
 

willo

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@jwelter99 Bit more info would be great. I use the multiplus with SBMS0 pretty easily.
What features are you getting by using the REC which is... pricy.
 

jwelter99

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@jwelter99 Bit more info would be great. I use the multiplus with SBMS0 pretty easily.
What features are you getting by using the REC which is... pricy.

Don't get me wrong - the SBMS0 by Dacus is a really nice unit, as you certainly have a very knowledgable guy behind it.

What it doesn't do is all the canbus integration with the Victron equipment that allows you to use DVCC on the Victron. What does DVCC allow?

- Shares BMS shunt information to rest of the system eliminating a second shunt. (also battery temp and voltage.). Will save you cost of Victron BMS and/or SmartShunt.

- Shares BMS critical alarms with rest of the system to control discharge; charge; etc. If the BMS senses a low or high voltage situation the Victron equipment will respond accordingly. Saves the cost of some contactors.

- Uses the BMS cell-level voltage information to ramp down charge rate near cell high voltage so the active-balancing can FULLY balance your park; regardless of size.

Hope his helps.
 

willo

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That's very helpful. Thank you!
Edit: I use the SBMS0 in my camper, but actually don't think I want it on my boat. (Thus my questions!)
I ordered about 22kwh of battery for my boat yesterday, and am working on solving my BMS needs next...
 

jwelter99

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That's very helpful. Thank you!
Edit: I use the SBMS0 in my camper, but actually don't think I want it on my boat. (Thus my questions!)
I ordered about 22kwh of battery for my boat yesterday, and am working on solving my BMS needs next...

Are you already fixed on 12V or is 24V or 48V an option?
 

willo

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It's a point of contention for me.
12V) Native, can use existing alt, power systems, start off house if needed, 12v windlass is actually wired from the house bank, can charge directly off starter/alt if needed.
24v-higher) - requires DC-DC converters for alt base charging, requires DC-DC to run house systems without reworking everything.

Honestly, I can just run multiple solar controllers for the panels and stay 12v. Existing inverter is already wired for 12v - I will probably replace it, so I need to make a decision already.

Batteries are ordered - 24x 304Ah EVE cells are on the way. I was looking at 32 cells but pricing didn't fit my planned battery budget. As it is, I'll have 21.5Kwh of storage.
 

jwelter99

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It's a point of contention for me.
12V) Native, can use existing alt, power systems, start off house if needed, 12v windlass is actually wired from the house bank, can charge directly off starter/alt if needed.
24v-higher) - requires DC-DC converters for alt base charging, requires DC-DC to run house systems without reworking everything.

Honestly, I can just run multiple solar controllers for the panels and stay 12v. Existing inverter is already wired for 12v - I will probably replace it, so I need to make a decision already.

Batteries are ordered - 24x 304Ah EVE cells are on the way. I was looking at 32 cells but pricing didn't fit my planned battery budget. As it is, I'll have 21.5Kwh of storage.

I understand the desire to keep it 12V as it's simple - all one voltage to deal with. But you are also talking about a big enough battery pack that it warrants considering 24V.

What are you AC loads you intend to run as the inverter is usually one of the bigger loads to consider? What size of boat and vintage?
 

DerpsyDoodler

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Jan 10, 2021
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It's a point of contention for me.
12V) Native, can use existing alt, power systems, start off house if needed, 12v windlass is actually wired from the house bank, can charge directly off starter/alt if needed.
24v-higher) - requires DC-DC converters for alt base charging, requires DC-DC to run house systems without reworking everything.

Honestly, I can just run multiple solar controllers for the panels and stay 12v. Existing inverter is already wired for 12v - I will probably replace it, so I need to make a decision already.

Batteries are ordered - 24x 304Ah EVE cells are on the way. I was looking at 32 cells but pricing didn't fit my planned battery budget. As it is, I'll have 21.5Kwh of storage.
just an FYI, with LFP, you shouldn't charge directly off the alternator. As I understand it, they can and will burn it out fast. You will still need a dc-dc charger.

I don't know what "windlass" is, so if that's a charge controller or alternator regulator, then I guess ignore me.
 

willo

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Windlass==winch for the anchor

I have a 12/2000 inverter today. I figure on moving to a 3000 with the update. Wiring is already in place for the existing unit...
 

DerpsyDoodler

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Windlass==winch for the anchor

I have a 12/2000 inverter today. I figure on moving to a 3000 with the update. Wiring is already in place for the existing unit...

Will you need to upgrade the wiring for the new inverter? What size is run to the existing inverter?
 

willo

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Looked like 1/0 but I didn't double check the writing. Victron allows for double wiring runs if I need it.
 
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