12v Fridge

[KorKoro]

I plan on buying an rv this summer and outfitting it with 400w of solar panels and 2 100ah Battle Born lithiums. I'm looking at small (17-19 ft. box) trailers. So far, all but one has been equipped with the EverChill 10.7 cu. ft. 12v fridge. I plan solo camping 4/5 months in the winter, almost entirely boon docking.

I'm not completely new to solar. My last rv was a 22' Lazy Daze class C with 200w panels and 225ah battery (no generator). I spent a month in Louisiana, Texas and New Mexico. My batteries went to 79% one time. That was when I had 5 days of rain in Louisiana. Other than that it didn't take long to top the batteries off each morning. My usage was just about 100ah a day. I was able to use the microwave a few minutes at a time, but not every day. (I like popcorn)

So, my question is, will I be able to boon dock with the EverChill with my proposed set up? How do you figure the ah usage with a 12v fridge? It says 3amps in the information. I don't know if that's per hour or some other measurement. Will that 3 amps only be when the compressor is running? Typically, how long does the compressor run each day with moderate use?

With my past rv I figured out how to use the solar system. It was already set up when I bought the unit used. However, I don't really know anything about setting up a system.

Thanks, KorKoro

 

[Ped]

Youll be fine

 

[nwillitts]

3 amps an hour.
fridge wont run for an hour.
it will take a while before it uses an hours worth of amps,which is 3.
unless you leave the fridge door open,

 

[John Frum]

How do you figure the ah usage with a 12v fridge? It says 3amps in the information.

If it was me I would load it up with a representative payload of food and run it at home on a 12 power supply and use a meter like this drok meter to see how many watt hours it draws over time.
The more accurately you model the usage the more accurate the results.

 

[JeepHammer]

I plan on buying an rv this summer and outfitting it with 400w of solar panels and 2 100ah Battle Born lithiums. I'm looking at small (17-19 ft. box) trailers. So far, all but one has been equipped with the EverChill 10.7 cu. ft. 12v fridge. I plan solo camping 4/5 months in the winter, almost entirely boon docking.

I'm not completely new to solar. My last rv was a 22' Lazy Daze class C with 200w panels and 225ah battery (no generator). I spent a month in Louisiana, Texas and New Mexico. My batteries went to 79% one time. That was when I had 5 days of rain in Louisiana. Other than that it didn't take long to top the batteries off each morning. My usage was just about 100ah a day. I was able to use the microwave a few minutes at a time, but not every day. (I like popcorn)

So, my question is, will I be able to boon dock with the EverChill with my proposed set up? How do you figure the ah usage with a 12v fridge? It says 3amps in the information. I don't know if that's per hour or some other measurement. Will that 3 amps only be when the compressor is running? Typically, how long does the compressor run each day with moderate use?

With my past rv I figured out how to use the solar system. It was already set up when I bought the unit used. However, I don't really know anything about setting up a system.

Thanks, KorKoro

Will Prowse has a specific diagram for 400 watt system that uses a specific Renology charge controller and BB batteries that fits your specifications exactly, with the added option the Charge Controller can charge off the vehicle when sun eludes you.

Since you are hunting, I would suggest folding saw horses for panel mounts and hinges so you can sun track instead of just bolting them to the roof.
You said 'Winter', that's low Winter Sun, and short Peak Sun Hours, sawhorses and hinges, a couple prop rods to hold panels where you put them, three position, Early Low East Sun, 'Level' Noon day sun, Low west sun.
Saw the legs off one end of the saw horse to compensate for low sun angle.
They look funny, but they work quite well.

Will Prowse's version, if you find this is something like what you are looking for, buy his book, it's chocked full of Ideas.

RV Solar Power Blue Prints

Building a vehicle mounted solar power system? Let me help.

www.mobile-solarpower.com

He also has videos of this system while building it on YouTube.

----------------------------------
This is an overview of a 400 Watt/100 Watt panel system showing all parallel panels.
TWO sets of lines to the charge controller keeps you under the recommend 20 Amp Load MC4 connector used on a lot of panels



MC4 combiner pair (around $7 pr., you will need both positive and negative pairs)
Home Depot carries them, as well as some other big box stores, and you can order them online.



This is a little different way to connect the same system, crimping two or three wires into a single connector eliminates the buss bars, if you make your own harness, this just simplifies things and reduces the electrical resistance/losses using stacked terminals and buss bars.



The Charge Controller to Battery Breaker is show with 40 Amp value, but this will be completely depending on the batteries you use and the output of the charge controller.
2x 100Ah BB batteries will take the 50 Amps (from the above recommended Renology controller) so in your system a 60 Amp breaker would be recommended.

50 Amp controller, 60 Amp breaker in the event something goes horribly wrong.

The vehicle battery terminal will also accept input from a battery charger on grid power, but I DO NOT recommend the vehicle battery be hooked up when doing so.
This would be a grid power to trailer charger when sun wasn't cooperating and you were topping off batteries before heading out.

LFP (LiFePo4) batteries in storage need to be discharged to about 50% before being disconnected and stored, So don't charge them the last day, and if they are still above about 50% charge, leave some stuff turned on and suck them down a little on the way home.

If the sun doesn't cooperate when you get things out of storage and ready to go, a battery charger connected to the vehicle terminal and Negative post will top off your batteries before you leave so you have full reserve power for your popcorn!

Does this help or annoy/confuse?

----------

If you don't already have the trailer, from someone that uses a trailer for camping and living on job sites,
A SQUARE TOP enclosed car trailer... MUCH more easy to build things in when you aren't dealing with a domed ceiling.

Get a ladder/cargo rack that bolts to the SIDES of the trailer for panel mounts & excess 'Stuff', keeps your roof from springing leaks, and you don't have to deal with that curve when mounting stuff.
With a ladder rack the panels can be high enough to SHADE your roof vent air, and you don't loose the mounting space where the roof vent is...
The section of rack over my air conditioner stands up higher than I like, but the AC still has cooling vent room...

That wouldn't be an issue with ground mount/remote panels.

 

[JeepHammer]

*IF* heating will be a problem when you are using the Camper, look into one of the OUTSIDE VENTED heaters you can run off a 'Jerry Can' of fuel since they have a fuel pump.
About 35 WATTS of power/hour and will keep things like a little trailer or big truck cab/sleeper toasty warm, consume about a pint of diesel an hour.

I'm NOT recommending this particular one, just the TYPE of heater.
Since it vents outside, no condensation buildup like with propane bottle heaters that burn the fuel inside.
Propane creates almost as much water as it burns in fuel when it's not vented outside, which I find a real problem with the cheap radiant heaters I used in the past.

I have 2 'Espar' brand units ($1,200 to $1,500) and I can't recommend them enough.
The 'China' knock-offs are about 1/10 the price, and at $150 even if you had to replace it every 3-4 years, it wouldn't break the budget if it's real cold...

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www.ebay.com

 

[JeepHammer]

One more source, 4ea 10Ga. wires in common insulation case for the 'Extension Cord' from charge controller to panels if you use remote panels. Fair price for 25 Feet.

104025 25' 10/4 SOOW Wire Cord Cable Portable Power 10 Gauge 4 Conductor 8853959339 | eBay

10/4 SOOW Portable Cord 600V UL/CSA =================================== Color: Black Applications: 10/4 SOOW Flexible Cord applications include portable tools and equipment, portable appliances, small motors and associated machinery Also Known As: 10-4 SO Cord, Generator Cord, Rubber Cord, 10...

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The local big box store will probably have it and won't gouge you for shipping.

 

[KorKoro]

If it was me I would load it up with a representative payload of food and run it at home on a 12 power supply and use a meter like this drok meter to see how many watt hours it draws over time.
The more accurately you model the usage the more accurate the results.

Don't have the trailer yet. Just trying to figure out if I want to buy one with the 12v fridge. Sounds like I'll be OK.

KorKoro

 

[KorKoro]

*IF* heating will be a problem when you are using the Camper, look into one of the OUTSIDE VENTED heaters you can run off a 'Jerry Can' of fuel since they have a fuel pump.
About 35 WATTS of power/hour and will keep things like a little trailer or big truck cab/sleeper toasty warm, consume about a pint of diesel an hour.

I'm NOT recommending this particular one, just the TYPE of heater.
Since it vents outside, no condensation buildup like with propane bottle heaters that burn the fuel inside.
Propane creates almost as much water as it burns in fuel when it's not vented outside, which I find a real problem with the cheap radiant heaters I used in the past.

I have 2 'Espar' brand units ($1,200 to $1,500) and I can't recommend them enough.
The 'China' knock-offs are about 1/10 the price, and at $150 even if you had to replace it every 3-4 years, it wouldn't break the budget if it's real cold...

12V 5KW Diesel Fuel Air Heater For Car Truck Boat Bus More vehicles Easy Use | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 12V 5KW Diesel Fuel Air Heater For Car Truck Boat Bus More vehicles Easy Use at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I guess I wasn't too clear. The reason I'm going to be in the camper in the winter is that I'll be traveling in the South -- getting away from the Northern Michigan winter. I won't need much in the

Will Prowse has a specific diagram for 400 watt system that uses a specific Renology charge controller and BB batteries that fits your specifications exactly, with the added option the Charge Controller can charge off the vehicle when sun eludes you.

Since you are hunting, I would suggest folding saw horses for panel mounts and hinges so you can sun track instead of just bolting them to the roof.
You said 'Winter', that's low Winter Sun, and short Peak Sun Hours, sawhorses and hinges, a couple prop rods to hold panels where you put them, three position, Early Low East Sun, 'Level' Noon day sun, Low west sun.
Saw the legs off one end of the saw horse to compensate for low sun angle.
They look funny, but they work quite well.

Will Prowse's version, if you find this is something like what you are looking for, buy his book, it's chocked full of Ideas.

RV Solar Power Blue Prints

Building a vehicle mounted solar power system? Let me help.

www.mobile-solarpower.com

He also has videos of this system while building it on YouTube.

----------------------------------
This is an overview of a 400 Watt/100 Watt panel system showing all parallel panels.
TWO sets of lines to the charge controller keeps you under the recommend 20 Amp Load MC4 connector used on a lot of panels

View attachment 4682

MC4 combiner pair (around $7 pr., you will need both positive and negative pairs)
Home Depot carries them, as well as some other big box stores, and you can order them online.

View attachment 4683

This is a little different way to connect the same system, crimping two or three wires into a single connector eliminates the buss bars, if you make your own harness, this just simplifies things and reduces the electrical resistance/losses using stacked terminals and buss bars.

View attachment 4684

The Charge Controller to Battery Breaker is show with 40 Amp value, but this will be completely depending on the batteries you use and the output of the charge controller.
2x 100Ah BB batteries will take the 50 Amps (from the above recommended Renology controller) so in your system a 60 Amp breaker would be recommended.

50 Amp controller, 60 Amp breaker in the event something goes horribly wrong.

The vehicle battery terminal will also accept input from a battery charger on grid power, but I DO NOT recommend the vehicle battery be hooked up when doing so.
This would be a grid power to trailer charger when sun wasn't cooperating and you were topping off batteries before heading out.

LFP (LiFePo4) batteries in storage need to be discharged to about 50% before being disconnected and stored, So don't charge them the last day, and if they are still above about 50% charge, leave some stuff turned on and suck them down a little on the way home.

If the sun doesn't cooperate when you get things out of storage and ready to go, a battery charger connected to the vehicle terminal and Negative post will top off your batteries before you leave so you have full reserve power for your popcorn!

Does this help or annoy/confuse?

----------

If you don't already have the trailer, from someone that uses a trailer for camping and living on job sites,
A SQUARE TOP enclosed car trailer... MUCH more easy to build things in when you aren't dealing with a domed ceiling.

Get a ladder/cargo rack that bolts to the SIDES of the trailer for panel mounts & excess 'Stuff', keeps your roof from springing leaks, and you don't have to deal with that curve when mounting stuff.
With a ladder rack the panels can be high enough to SHADE your roof vent air, and you don't loose the mounting space where the roof vent is...
The section of rack over my air conditioner stands up higher than I like, but the AC still has cooling vent room...

That wouldn't be an issue with ground mount/remote panels.

The reason I came up with the plan I did was because of the system Will had on his site. I'm a wood worker by hobby and plan on building my own portable mounting structure. I like the idea of being able to put the trailer where I want and the panels in the sun.

KorKoro

 

[Santa]

I plan on buying an rv this summer and outfitting it with 400w of solar panels and 2 100ah Battle Born lithiums. I'm looking at small (17-19 ft. box) trailers. So far, all but one has been equipped with the EverChill 10.7 cu. ft. 12v fridge. I plan solo camping 4/5 months in the winter, almost entirely boon docking.

I'm not completely new to solar. My last rv was a 22' Lazy Daze class C with 200w panels and 225ah battery (no generator). I spent a month in Louisiana, Texas and New Mexico. My batteries went to 79% one time. That was when I had 5 days of rain in Louisiana. Other than that it didn't take long to top the batteries off each morning. My usage was just about 100ah a day. I was able to use the microwave a few minutes at a time, but not every day. (I like popcorn)

So, my question is, will I be able to boon dock with the EverChill with my proposed set up? How do you figure the ah usage with a 12v fridge? It says 3amps in the information. I don't know if that's per hour or some other measurement. Will that 3 amps only be when the compressor is running? Typically, how long does the compressor run each day with moderate use?

With my past rv I figured out how to use the solar system. It was already set up when I bought the unit used. However, I don't really know anything about setting up a system.

Thanks, KorKoro

So power management is key. I stole this from Bob. He says to do this and you will only use between 2-4 hours of compressor run-time: First thing in the morning, turn the fridge temp down to ALMOST freezing, but not freezing. Then turn it back to normal. Repeat that in mid-afternoon. He says it rarely comes on in the middle of the night. Yours is: 12v x 3 amp = 36 watts x 4 hours = 144 watt hours daily for your fridge (if his method is correct.) Also use an insulated fridge bag and/or additional insulation like Reflectix.

 

[Santa]

Will Prowse has a specific diagram for 400 watt system that uses a specific Renology charge controller and BB batteries that fits your specifications exactly, with the added option the Charge Controller can charge off the vehicle when sun eludes you.

Since you are hunting, I would suggest folding saw horses for panel mounts and hinges so you can sun track instead of just bolting them to the roof.
You said 'Winter', that's low Winter Sun, and short Peak Sun Hours, sawhorses and hinges, a couple prop rods to hold panels where you put them, three position, Early Low East Sun, 'Level' Noon day sun, Low west sun.
Saw the legs off one end of the saw horse to compensate for low sun angle.
They look funny, but they work quite well.

Will Prowse's version, if you find this is something like what you are looking for, buy his book, it's chocked full of Ideas.

RV Solar Power Blue Prints

Building a vehicle mounted solar power system? Let me help.

www.mobile-solarpower.com

He also has videos of this system while building it on YouTube.

----------------------------------
This is an overview of a 400 Watt/100 Watt panel system showing all parallel panels.
TWO sets of lines to the charge controller keeps you under the recommend 20 Amp Load MC4 connector used on a lot of panels

View attachment 4682

MC4 combiner pair (around $7 pr., you will need both positive and negative pairs)
Home Depot carries them, as well as some other big box stores, and you can order them online.

View attachment 4683

This is a little different way to connect the same system, crimping two or three wires into a single connector eliminates the buss bars, if you make your own harness, this just simplifies things and reduces the electrical resistance/losses using stacked terminals and buss bars.

View attachment 4684

The Charge Controller to Battery Breaker is show with 40 Amp value, but this will be completely depending on the batteries you use and the output of the charge controller.
2x 100Ah BB batteries will take the 50 Amps (from the above recommended Renology controller) so in your system a 60 Amp breaker would be recommended.

50 Amp controller, 60 Amp breaker in the event something goes horribly wrong.

The vehicle battery terminal will also accept input from a battery charger on grid power, but I DO NOT recommend the vehicle battery be hooked up when doing so.
This would be a grid power to trailer charger when sun wasn't cooperating and you were topping off batteries before heading out.

LFP (LiFePo4) batteries in storage need to be discharged to about 50% before being disconnected and stored, So don't charge them the last day, and if they are still above about 50% charge, leave some stuff turned on and suck them down a little on the way home.

If the sun doesn't cooperate when you get things out of storage and ready to go, a battery charger connected to the vehicle terminal and Negative post will top off your batteries before you leave so you have full reserve power for your popcorn!

Does this help or annoy/confuse?

----------

If you don't already have the trailer, from someone that uses a trailer for camping and living on job sites,
A SQUARE TOP enclosed car trailer... MUCH more easy to build things in when you aren't dealing with a domed ceiling.

Get a ladder/cargo rack that bolts to the SIDES of the trailer for panel mounts & excess 'Stuff', keeps your roof from springing leaks, and you don't have to deal with that curve when mounting stuff.
With a ladder rack the panels can be high enough to SHADE your roof vent air, and you don't loose the mounting space where the roof vent is...
The section of rack over my air conditioner stands up higher than I like, but the AC still has cooling vent room...

That wouldn't be an issue with ground mount/remote panels.

But Will says to size the SCC fuse by multiplying the SCC amps times 1.25 in his book.

So, ^ are the saw horses bolted to the side of the van or stored inside the van?

Also the MC4 connectors need to be 4-1 like in Will's diagram: https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/simplified-400-watt-fewer-wires-and-alternator-charging.html The mc4 link is in his blueprint. (M/FFFF and F/MMMM x 2)

 

[Santa]

Will Prowse has a specific diagram for 400 watt system that uses a specific Renology charge controller and BB batteries that fits your specifications exactly, with the added option the Charge Controller can charge off the vehicle when sun eludes you.

Since you are hunting, I would suggest folding saw horses for panel mounts and hinges so you can sun track instead of just bolting them to the roof.
You said 'Winter', that's low Winter Sun, and short Peak Sun Hours, sawhorses and hinges, a couple prop rods to hold panels where you put them, three position, Early Low East Sun, 'Level' Noon day sun, Low west sun.
Saw the legs off one end of the saw horse to compensate for low sun angle.
They look funny, but they work quite well.

Will Prowse's version, if you find this is something like what you are looking for, buy his book, it's chocked full of Ideas.

RV Solar Power Blue Prints

Building a vehicle mounted solar power system? Let me help.

www.mobile-solarpower.com

He also has videos of this system while building it on YouTube.

----------------------------------
This is an overview of a 400 Watt/100 Watt panel system showing all parallel panels.
TWO sets of lines to the charge controller keeps you under the recommend 20 Amp Load MC4 connector used on a lot of panels

View attachment 4682

MC4 combiner pair (around $7 pr., you will need both positive and negative pairs)
Home Depot carries them, as well as some other big box stores, and you can order them online.

View attachment 4683

This is a little different way to connect the same system, crimping two or three wires into a single connector eliminates the buss bars, if you make your own harness, this just simplifies things and reduces the electrical resistance/losses using stacked terminals and buss bars.

View attachment 4684


Get a ladder/cargo rack that bolts to the SIDES of the trailer for panel mounts & excess 'Stuff', keeps your roof from springing leaks, and you don't have to deal with that curve when mounting stuff.
With a ladder rack the panels can be high enough to SHADE your roof vent air, and you don't loose the mounting space where the roof vent is...
The section of rack over my air conditioner stands up higher than I like, but the AC still has cooling vent room...

P.S. how would you mount the panels to the side on the ladder so they can be put up and down?

 

[JeepHammer]

P.S. how would you mount the panels to the side on the ladder so they can be put up and down?

Overhead ladder/pipe rack, has bars across the roof, panels lay flat on the roof.
The rack mounts to the side of the trailer instead of roof, walls are stronger and the rack/panel weight doesn't bounce up and down on the roof.



Where the center support is, with a second support in the middle you can clear an air conditioner, but if I were going to live in it for long periods, I would get a split system and put the outdoor unit on the tongue.

–-----–-----------

4 panels in parallel, 33.33 amps on 10 Ga wire. Max load on a 10 Ga wire is 32.5
This is assuming the panels never put out more than the rated 100 Watts.

From panels to inverter distance is also an issue, many people set RV/Trailer panels out remotely, so for 4ea 100 watt panels that would be at least 8 Ga.

MC4 connectors are rated for 20 amps, *Some* people say 30 amps but that's not the rating.
That also *Assumes* the MC4 connector is properly made, certified for full load, and not from 'China' with questionable materials...

There is also the question of short wires on the back of the panels themselves, often just long enough to reach the box on the panel next to it. How many sets of MC4 connectors do you want to buy?

With 4 panels shown in the drawing, they would all have to be "Head To Head", all 4 wiring boxes together for the wires to come together with the combiner right under them, you will have to have room for 4 clustered panels or you will have to add extention wires to 2 of the panels, 4 more wires, 8 more MC4 connectors.

While it's not an issue with mounted panels, people with portable panels or auxillary panels they set out for extra power, and all those connectors & jumper/extension wires gets old real fast.

Honestly, Anderson Power Pole connectors are easier for remote panels, while not entirely water tight, they are MUCH more durable and easier to use.

----------------

 

[Santa]

Overhead ladder/pipe rack, has bars across the roof, panels lay flat on the roof.
The rack mounts to the side of the trailer instead of roof, walls are stronger and the rack/panel weight doesn't bounce up and down on the roof.

View attachment 4757

Where the center support is, with a second support in the middle you can clear an air conditioner, but if I were going to live in it for long periods, I would get a split system and put the outdoor unit on the tongue.

–-----–-----------

Oh okay, I thought you were saying to mount them on the side. I misunderstood. Could you do this ^ on a van?

 

[JeepHammer]

So power management is key. I stole this from Bob. He says to do this and you will only use between 2-4 hours of compressor run-time: First thing in the morning, turn the fridge temp down to ALMOST freezing, but not freezing. Then turn it back to normal. Repeat that in mid-afternoon. He says it rarely comes on in the middle of the night. Yours is: 12v x 3 amp = 36 watts x 4 hours = 144 watt hours daily for your fridge (if his method is correct.) Also use an insulated fridge bag and/or additional insulation like Reflectix.

Half gallon or gallon water jugs if you have room.
Throw them in the freezer and get them cold during peak sun hours, put them in the fridge at night.
Cold thermal mass.
Cold water & ice tea are my favorites, they can freeze and thaw with no issues.

 

[JeepHammer]

Oh okay, I thought you were saying to mount them on the side. I misunderstood. Could you do this ^ on a van?

People mount pipe and ladder rack on the front fenders all the way to the back of the vehicle...

I still recommend mounting to the sides and NOT punching holes in the roof...



Just DON'T try to go though McBurger Drive Through!

 

[Santa]

People mount pipe and ladder rack on the front fenders all the way to the back of the vehicle...

I still recommend mounting to the sides and NOT punching holes in the roof...

View attachment 4764View attachment 4765

Just DON'T try to go though McBurger Drive Through!

But how would you "hinge" them outward?

 

[Santa]

People mount pipe and ladder rack on the front fenders all the way to the back of the vehicle...

I still recommend mounting to the sides and NOT punching holes in the roof...

View attachment 4764View attachment 4765

Just DON'T try to go though McBurger Drive Through!

Maybe you should include a solar install consulting company for RV's along with your wire harness company. Or even solar INSTALLS for RV's? Just sayin'.

 

[Santa]

People mount pipe and ladder rack on the front fenders all the way to the back of the vehicle...

I still recommend mounting to the sides and NOT punching holes in the roof...

View attachment 4764View attachment 4765

Just DON'T try to go though McBurger Drive Through!

or the car wash, LOL