diy solar

diy solar

12VDC, 30A Smart Battery Charger for $40.

It's Pin 1 to Pin 3 and Pin 2 to Pin 4 on the aftermarket plug I have. Also, once you get it right, the IOTA will output 14.2V regardless of whether you have a load.

We have 14.2 volts!

I appreciate the help gentlemen!

Summary:

RJ-22
Pin 1 to 3
Pin 2 to 4

Pin 1 is right most when the pins are on top.

Can someone summarize how the IOTA behaves with this pin when charging? How long does it stay in 14.2 volts till it does into float?
 
It stays at 14.2V until you pull the plug out.

This is correct. Here's what the DLS manual has to say:

TWO-STEP VOLTAGE JACK The two-step voltage jack allows switching from a long-term float voltage of 13.6vdc to a ‘high-stage’ voltage of 14.2vdc. When the included dual voltage plug is inserted in the jack*, the voltage rises to 14.2vdc for occasional fast charging. When the plug is removed, the voltage drops to 13.6vdc to reduce battery water loss. WARNING: To avoid battery damage, remove the Dual Voltage Plug when quickcharging is complete. NOTE: If the unit is equipped with an internal IQ4 smart charger, two-step charging is not needed and the Dual Voltage Jack is disabled.
 
I am building a 120Ah Lifepo4 battery for a friends camper whose AGM is done. The camper has one of these IOTA DLS-30 with internal IQ4 already installed. So if I am reading this thread right, because the IQ4 is internal, I can't make it work to charge the lithium battery correct? Or is there something else I could do?
 
I am building a 120Ah Lifepo4 battery for a friends camper whose AGM is done. The camper has one of these IOTA DLS-30 with internal IQ4 already installed. So if I am reading this thread right, because the IQ4 is internal, I can't make it work to charge the lithium battery correct? Or is there something else I could do?

You are correct. I too had one with the internal IQ4 module. It's just sitting there doing nothing at this point. :(

There has been some discussion that the dual voltage jack could be used. However, that plug (which comes with most of the IOTA converters I believe) charges at a constant 14.4 volts. There's no lower voltage with the plug. Maybe it will lower the amps to zero. Maybe it won't. I haven't seen anyone test it on a LiFePO4 battery.
 
You are correct. I too had one with the internal IQ4 module. It's just sitting there doing nothing at this point. :(

There has been some discussion that the dual voltage jack could be used. However, that plug (which comes with most of the IOTA converters I believe) charges at a constant 14.4 volts. There's no lower voltage with the plug. Maybe it will lower the amps to zero. Maybe it won't. I haven't seen anyone test it on a LiFePO4 battery.
Just thinking here.... but with a programmable BMS could you set overvoltage protection to 14.4v and then overvoltage release to 13.3v or something? So then when the battery gets to the 14.4v of the DLS then the BMS will turn off until the battery goes down 10%. Does that sound possible?
 
Just thinking here.... but with a programmable BMS could you set overvoltage protection to 14.4v and then overvoltage release to 13.3v or something? So then when the battery gets to the 14.4v of the DLS then the BMS will turn off until the battery goes down 10%. Does that sound possible?

That might work.

I chose to buy a new converter that I could plug the IQ4 LiFePO4 module into. Given how rare it is that I'm on shore or generator power, the dual voltage jack might have worked. But setting the BMS for a converter oriented charge profile when the converter is rarely used, wouldn't be worth my time. Plus, I would forget to switch the BMS back to non-converter operation.
 
Big thanks to @halfwave: You can internally adjust the voltage of the DLS-30. See their post in another thread.

 
Back
Top