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180W Battery tester will not draw current

I saw the video.
Sadly much experience with failing capacity testers.
It's usually the mosfet under the heatsink.
Cheap and easy to replace with soldering iron.

Remove the heatsink, and test the Mosfet.

Probably need to replace.
Is absurd how many are defective at start.
Return to China is usually not an option (to expensive) and most Chinese sell sites won't give full refund.
Probably enough to buy 10 replacement MOSFETs :)
 
Thanks I'll look into it. I am powering it from a 5V supply. The supplied one with US plug is 9V. I'll check first that that isn't making a difference.
 
Thanks I'll look into it. I am powering it from a 5V supply. The supplied one with US plug is 9V. I'll check first that that isn't making a difference.
I've got 6 by the way. This is the only one I've tested so far
 
So the other 5 testers seem to work OK on a preliminary test. Just by chance the first one I tried was duff...
I've removed the MOSFET and tested as shown in the video. Seems to work OK in the open and closed states,
When I tested the tester this time I did notice it would allow 0.01A current to pass (on full). Maybe the MOSFET is only partially buggered, or maybe a different component is wrong.
I've ordered a new MOSFET anyway
 
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I just received a 180Watt capacity tester yesterday and initially had a problem with it.
Thought about replacing the MOSFET under the fan then found out it was user error.

I noticed in the photo you posted there doesn't seem to be a power supply connected?
Then again, if you connected others the same way with the same PS then that should rule that out.

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/d...-voltage-not-agreeing-with-multitester.20408/
 
I just received a 180Watt capacity tester yesterday and initially had a problem with it.
Thought about replacing the MOSFET under the fan then found out it was user error.

I noticed in the photo you posted there doesn't seem to be a power supply connected?

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/d...-voltage-not-agreeing-with-multitester.20408/
The power supply is connected, that's why it switches on. I don't know if the power supply jack is visible in the video. It;s the other side of the fan.
What was your user error? Now the other 5 are working I'm thinking it's something broken on this board. Maybe I even broke it somehow connecting it up.
 
I saw the video.
Sadly much experience with failing capacity testers.
It's usually the mosfet under the heatsink.
Cheap and easy to replace with soldering iron.

Remove the heatsink, and test the Mosfet.

Probably need to replace.
Is absurd how many are defective at start.
Return to China is usually not an option (to expensive) and most Chinese sell sites won't give full refund.
Probably enough to buy 10 replacement MOSFETs :)
Thanks - new MOSFET fixed it.
 
Tagging onto this thread. Has anyone been able to set the low voltage disconnect on this device? Mine is set at 0 but when I press and hold the button I cannot change the low voltage value. What am I doing wrong?
 
Press the top, setup button a few seconds, that will give you a menu.
(Or the "start" button (low) for a few seconds.

Not sure anymore.

It took me some time to figure it out also!!2021-5-22 21-41-12.jpg
 
Thank you! I found it elsewhere as well. https://forums.sailboatowners.com/t...acity.1249926037/#lg=attachment184183&slide=0

Press the button while powering it up. Then you can set the various parameters press and hold to set a parameter, double press to increase, single press to decrease).

Now to figure out what to set it at - the alarm will goes off (beeping) internittantly while discharging. Maybe I should top balance first then discharge a single LiFePO4 cell (280 Ah)
 
Are you using both cables (2 black, 2 red)
The thicker one is to discharge the thinner one is to measure the voktage
 
Are you using both cables (2 black, 2 red)
The thicker one is to discharge the thinner one is to measure the voktage
i don't think I received two cables - the only other was a usb cable. The cables I am using are about AWG 10 or 12 and have alligator clips. I could make some new cables (the ones supplied are ridiculously short).
 
I have the DL24P latest version ordered on AliExpress. 180Watts.

H185b96e1179a432ea4f651a2ef842518P.jpg


I use it a lot and it's a very good capacity tester. Glad I bought it.
Anyone figured out how to turn off the LED fan lights yet?
 
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My 180W have also the double connector.
IMG_20210526_105428.jpg

My older 150W had one for + and one for -
Different way of setup, with a knob.

As yours has the 4 buttons..
I thought it was the same as my type.

@OnTheRoadAgain replace fan.
Or cut the power to the led, but that's hard to reach.

I have had several fans with controllable LEDs, they have separate control wire.
The ones with "on always" take the power from the fan, and can't be controlled for on/off or colour :-(
 
I saw the video.
Sadly much experience with failing capacity testers.
It's usually the mosfet under the heatsink.
Cheap and easy to replace with soldering iron.

Remove the heatsink, and test the Mosfet.

Probably need to replace.
Is absurd how many are defective at start.
Return to China is usually not an option (to expensive) and most Chinese sell sites won't give full refund.
Probably enough to buy 10 replacement MOSFETs :)

When I took the fan off of my unit a day after it arrived, I found way too much thermal paste on the mosfet.
it was globbed on there heavy. Anyone who does it right knows that thermal past should be used as sparingly as possible and only to fill air gaps.
Too much has the effect of insulating the chip from the heatsink, actually reducing heat transfer.

I have since run mine up to the full 180 watts overnight many times with no problem.
 
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