2 TESLA MODULES & 10 PANELS...NOW WHAT?

[faeded]

hi everyone
i have recently purchased and bartered two tesla modules and 10 370 watt 48 v panels and am going crazy trying to figure out where to go from here.
i have been lurking and reading , trying to take in as much as i can but am having difficult time sizing and what products would be best to buy.
i am also trying to get it up and running as fast as possible and dont have a ton of $$ to trow at it but i do have some.

can anyone please help with pointers..advice etc thanks all

 

[faeded]

correction..the panels are 24v as i just tested them open circuit and got 48v..so that means 24v?

 

[curiouscarbon]

hello faeded, welcome to solar forum

requesting pic of solar panel label (should be on backside)

request info on specific tesla battery module

do you have a charger already?

 

[Sillyputty]

the panels are 24v as i just tested them open circuit and got 48v..so that means 24v?

What do the labels on the back side of the panels say? Should have a lot of info on them.

 

[faeded1]

hello faeded, welcome to solar forum

requesting pic of solar panel label (should be on backside)

request info on specific tesla battery module

do you have a charger already?

this is faeded..i got locked out of previous account cuz my mac died along with credentials.here is the picture of the back panel and the tesla batt both are model s 2019 not matched yet but if i need to i will.
i look forward to hearing from you.

 

[faeded1]

What do the labels on the back side of the panels say? Should have a lot

yes..here is the info you requested
this is faeded..i got locked out of previous account cuz my mac died along with credentials.here is the picture of the back panel and the tesla batt both are model s 2019..thanks for the interest")

 

[Ampster]

Tesla modules are a unique range of voltage that makes them difficult to deploy in a 24 volt environment. You should familiarize yourself with their construction, chemistry and safe voltage range before you pick other components. Several people have had luck cofiguring them in a 48 volt nominal system.

 

[faeded1]

Tesla modules are a unique range of voltage that makes them difficult to deploy in a 24 volt environment. You should familiarize yourself with their construction, chemistry and safe voltage range before you pick other components. Several people have had luck cofiguring them in a 48 volt nominal system.

yes i have gathered this info as well.this is why i am stuck with the charge controller inverter dilemma of which ones to buy.i have also heard that these modules are more likely to burn in 48v configs...so i was thinking 24v in parallel.
i am very familiar with lithium battery's and the do and donts as well as the chemistry .i have been using them for a long time for various projects' am also familiar with other types of lithium and the advantages to using them in a solar setup....but this is what i have ..2 tesla model s batts and 10 panels...so i have to work with what i got.

 

[Ampster]

i have also heard that these modules are more likely to burn in 48v configs...so i was thinking 24v in parallel.

The probability of burning the modules is related to overcharging them and the risk of one parallel group of cells exceeding 4.2 volts. It has nothing to do with how many modules are in series. My Teslas have at least least 16 modules in series. Both Teslas are safer than any single module used without cooling and without a BMS. A BMS is essential to prevent that over charging. A BMS will not stop combustion, all it can do is cutoff charging before a cell group goes beyond 4.2 volts.
Remind me, are the Tesla modules 6S or 7S? That would mean, respectively 25.2 volts or 29.4 volts max per module. Those are not typical ranges for 24 volt devices but 48 volt devices have ranges that can accomodate high voltage cutoffs of 50.4 or 58.4 volts. The issue some have experienced is the low voltage cutoff range of some inverters. Also BMSs capable of 12S or 14S are sometimes limited but no more so than 6S or 7S.

 

[Johan]

What about using the new renogy all-in-one:

Its minimum voltage matches very well with the two Tesla modules in series, in contrast to most other inverters.

BMS: TinyBMS works great for that, for example, very flexible. Use e.g. StealthEV boards to connect cell tap leads. Orion is cool too.

 

[Ampster]

Its minimum voltage matches very well with the two Tesla modules in series, in contrast to most other inverters.

I agree. Renogy seems to have wider voltage ranges. I was trying to use two Nissan Leaf models which was a total of 4 cell groups in series. The Renogy could handle the 16 plus volts.

 

[faeded1]

What about using the new renogy all-in-one:

Its minimum voltage matches very well with the two Tesla modules in series, in contrast to most other inverters.

BMS: TinyBMS works great for that, for example, very flexible. Use e.g. StealthEV boards to connect cell tap leads. Orion is cool too.

yes that is a thought..i do prefer an all in one for sure..
it is a bit high on the budget but i suppose thats about the right price for doing it right.
these bms are less fire prone at 48v then stock bms?...

 

[faeded1]

The probability of burning the modules is related to overcharging them and the risk of one parallel group of cells exceeding 4.2 volts. It has nothing to do with how many modules are in series. My Teslas have at least least 16 modules in series. Both Teslas are safer than any single module used without cooling and without a BMS. A BMS is essential to prevent that over charging. A BMS will not stop combustion, all it can do is cutoff charging before a cell group goes beyond 4.2 volts.
Remind me, are the Tesla modules 6S or 7S? That would mean, respectively 25.2 volts or 29.4 volts max per module. Those are not typical ranges for 24 volt devices but 48 volt devices have ranges that can accomodate high voltage cutoffs of 50.4 or 58.4e these panels 25 36 ur 48? volts. The issue some have experienced is the low voltage cutoff range of some inverters. Also BMSs capable of 12S or 14S are sometimes limited but no more so than 6S or 7S.

teslas are s and x model....6s74p
can you tell me are thee panels 24 36 48?on multi they read 48 and since i have 10 of them i am thinking about the setup
also the stealthev bms seems good

 

[Ampster]

can you tell me are thee panels 24 36 48

What matters is how you string the panels for your charge controller or all in one inverter. Use the specs from the label on the back to enter into string calc. That Renogy takes 60 to 114 v DC and converts it to voltage you set specific for your batteries. There is also an Amp limit which is in the Renogy specs.

 

[curiouscarbon]

dear @faded1 welcome back. sorry you lost your computer thanks for the photo

nice panel, i would call it a "36 V panel" personally.

I don't know if it gets very cold where the panels will be, but if it gets really cold the max voltage of the panel might rise and it's good to work that into the charger input accepted voltage range imo. Where I am it would definitely not get to -20C (probably!) but for some stupid reason I would still want to have my charger be able to handle the voltage.. (excessive)

The voltage: Voc 46.4V * 1.25 ultra winter voltage fudge factor = 58 Volts Per Panel Max Ever With Lots Sun And VERY Cold.

So maybe really treat them as 58 Volt panels for the purposes of putting them in series.

Of course if it doesn't get to -20C then 58 is gonna be way excessive but those cells do NOT like overvolt so i'm trying to heavily factor high voltage into the panel part. Cheers hope this somewhat helps

 

[faeded1]

What matters is how you string the panels for your charge controller or all in one inverter. Use the specs from the label on the back to enter into string calc. That Renogy takes 60 to 114 v DC and converts it to voltage you set specific for your batteries. There is also an Amp limit which is in the Renogy spec

thankyou

 

[faeded1]

dear @faded1 welcome back. sorry you lost your computer thanks for the photo

nice panel, i would call it a "36 V panel" personally.

I don't know if it gets very cold where the panels will be, but if it gets really cold the max voltage of the panel might rise and it's good to work that into the charger input accepted voltage range imo. Where I am it would definitely not get to -20C (probably!) but for some stupid reason I would still want to have my charger be able to handle the voltage.. (excessive)

The voltage: Voc 46.4V * 1.25 ultra winter voltage fudge factor = 58 Volts Per Panel Max Ever With Lots Sun And VERY Cold.

So maybe really treat them as 58 Volt panels for the purposes of putting them in series.

Of course if it doesn't get to -20C then 58 is gonna be way excessive but those cells do NOT like overvolt so i'm trying to heavily factor high voltage into the panel part. Cheers hope this somewhat helps

ilive in joshua tree ca...the desert lots of sun
thanks guys you have help

 

[JeepDaddy]

With all due respect, it sounds like you have a solution that is looking for a problem to solve.

 

[faeded1]

With all due respect, it sounds like you have a solution that is looking for a problem to solve.

i simply am going right to the solution so that there won't be a problem

 

[faeded1]

ilive in joshua tree ca...the desert lots of sun
thanks guys you have help

if the renogy max @114v and my batts are in series i get over voltage of 2v.'total of 116v..is that an issue i need be concerned about killing the renogy?