200 Watts system to inverter no batteries planing. Will I blow/burn my stuff up?

[LV426]

I could use some input before I buy some parts for a project.
I have seen a video with the basic jest of what I want to do.

Here is what I was thinking
Input: two 100 watt solar panels so that 200 watts total

to a:
Kohree DC/DC Converter Regulator 24V Step Down to 12V 20A 240W Golf Cart Low Voltage Reducer Buck Transformer Waterproof

Then to a:
FOVAL 150W Car Power Inverter 12V DC to 110V AC Converter with 3.1A Dual USB Car Charger.

I would only plan on using this if the power get knocked out from a hurricane. I'm guessing I would only need about 106 to 110 watts of the 150 watt output from the inverter to run my cooler (51 watts) and laptop (55 watts). I want to use an inverter because the panels are kind of fare away from my house to get enough sun. I would convert the DC to AC then just use a 50 foot drop cord. Plus after the laptop is charged I could use the other 50 or so watts to charge other things that can only be charged by AC like my batters I use for my lanterns. I know this is kind of inefficient but I'm trying to do something on the cheap. I already have to 200 watts of solar for charging up my Jackery. But I got my hands on a 60 watt panle that takses care of that seeing how the Jackery only charges at 39 watts.

 

[HRTKD]

If I'm looking at the right panels, the Voc is 22.6 and Vmp is 18.5. The converter may be unhappy with such low voltage.

You may be better off with an actual MPPT solar charge controller that you can (manually) set the system voltage on. That way you can run the panels in series for easier wiring. The distance you mentioned is another reason to run the panels in series. Higher input voltage means smaller wire and you'll get lower voltage drop. The DC-DC converter would not handle the high voltage when the panels are in series. An MPPT solar charge controller would.

 

[DThames]

If I'm looking at the right panels, the Voc is 22.6 and Vmp is 18.5. The converter may be unhappy with such low voltage.

You may be better off with an actual MPPT solar charge controller that you can (manually) set the system voltage on. That way you can run the panels in series for easier wiring. The distance you mentioned is another reason to run the panels in series. Higher input voltage means smaller wire and you'll get lower voltage drop. The DC-DC converter would not handle the high voltage when the panels are in series. An MPPT solar charge controller would.

Another option might be to go to a 24v panel and use a converter with a wider input voltage range (20v-60v).

 

[DThames]

Do you have a car close by? A solar charger and even a small battery (or your car battery while in the car) could be used to add a buffer to the weak/unstable nature of solar. If you walk by and cast a shadow on the panel, it can shut it down to almost zero while the shadow is there. So you need good sun on the panel for the time you are using it. A cloud over the sun and boom, output drops. Even a small battery in the system would help for those dips in output.

 

[LV426]

Another option might be to go to a 24v panel and use a converter with a wider input voltage range (20v-60v).

Thanks for info, will do

 

[LV426]

If I'm looking at the right panels, the Voc is 22.6 and Vmp is 18.5. The converter may be unhappy with such low voltage.

You may be better off with an actual MPPT solar charge controller that you can (manually) set the system voltage on. That way you can run the panels in series for easier wiring. The distance you mentioned is another reason to run the panels in series. Higher input voltage means smaller wire and you'll get lower voltage drop. The DC-DC converter would not handle the high voltage when the panels are in series. An MPPT solar charge controller wo

If I'm looking at the right panels, the Voc is 22.6 and Vmp is 18.5. The converter may be unhappy with such low voltage.

You may be better off with an actual MPPT solar charge controller that you can (manually) set the system voltage on. That way you can run the panels in series for easier wiring. The distance you mentioned is another reason to run the panels in series. Higher input voltage means smaller wire and you'll get lower voltage drop. The DC-DC converter would not handle the high voltage when the panels are in series. An MPPT solar charge controller would.

Everything I have read says that you could damage the MPPT controller without a battery. But thanks for input on the Voc/Vmp. I will just use a different converter that can handle a higher voltage and wire the panels in series.

 

[pullin_gs]

Skip the converter IMO.
You will need a battery of some sort though. Pair that up to a 200w rated MPPT charge controller that can be programmed to the specific voltage/chemistry of your battery. Now you can use your inverter.