diy solar

diy solar

2000 W inverter wire and fuse size

I'm planning on using aluminum mechanical lugs and noox.
I have used them for temporary connection while reconfiguring my pack. I prefer permanent ones using my 18 ton crimper.
Those aluminum ones are used all the time on main service panels. The key is using the correct torque.
 
Just that aluminum will have about 58% higher resistance then same sized copper. Also watch out for corrosion when mating dissimilar metals.
I agree, in the case of my service panel the incoming power is aluminum cables and the buss bars are aluminum. 50% sounds like a lot but overall Aluminum and Copper are at the top in terms of conductivity compared to most other metals. I am not contradicting you because on a permanent basis I prefer crimped copper lugs on copper cable.
 
I agree, in the case of my service panel the incoming power is aluminum cables and the buss bars are aluminum. 50% sounds like a lot but overall Aluminum and Copper are at the top in terms of conductivity compared to most other metals. I am not contradicting you because on a permanent basis I prefer crimped copper lugs on copper cable.

I might even try aluminum wire.
 
I am not sure if many folks realize the battery cable DC flow on a sinewave inverter is not a smooth even constant flow. It has a sine squared shape with a peak current of 1.57 times the average and minimum of near zero current.

Putting a DC voltmeter between battery terminal and inverter terminal will not likely read out the true voltage drop. Even a 'true rms' voltmeter is normally only true rms for AC reading modes. Using AC voltage scale will not usually work since it expects bipolar waveform.

The simple way to get a true average DC voltage drop reading is to do what battery monitors do with voltage from a current shunt. They use a low frequency R-C low pass filter to extract the average of the waveform. It needs to be really low freq filter, less then 2 Hz corner freq because you are trying to filter out 120 Hz ripple.
 
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I like the dual-set-screw type at the top of the 2nd page. Also, I wish they'd specify a maximum amperage for each lug. As long as they don't get warm under a max load, you should be ok.
It is all about heating. No heat, no loss.
 
My idea is to use these
With fuses for the positive busbar.
And without fuses for the negative busbar.
They have something I was looking for and like there design. Was looking at there automotive circuit breakers looks like they have 12v and 14v versions. Looks like 14v would be the way to go for my setup.

edit: looks like it says max is 14v. Lifepho4 goes little above that so I wounder if they are conservative on the rating?
 
I like the dual-set-screw type at the top of the 2nd page. Also, I wish they'd specify a maximum amperage for each lug. As long as they don't get warm under a max load, you should be ok.
I have a vertical double coming.
 
They have something I was looking for and like there design. Was looking at there automotive circuit breakers looks like they have 12v and 14v versions. Looks like 14v would be the way to go for my setup.

edit: looks like it says max is 14v. Lifepho4 goes little above that so I wounder if they are conservative on the rating?
Better link :)
 
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