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2000W 24V System Question

Are you sure? Is that an induction motor, and how did you determine start-up amps?
I use an oscilloscope and AC current probe, so I can see the sine wave for however many cycles.
I've measured motors (e.g. window air conditioner) drawing 4x nameplate current for a fraction of a second, then running on 1/2 of nameplate current (under mild conditions, not working hard.)
Yep, as far as i could tell. Watched a amp meter and watt meter as the pump would turn off and on. Highest amp reading was close to 15 amps or watt meter of 1800 watts.
Update, that is per each 110 leg.
 
I believe this is the pump; https://www.pentair.com/en/products...0g-1-hp-10-gpm-4-submersible-3-wire-230v.html

I just called pentair and they said it was 2484 watts with a 5x surge - but that seems like a lot of watts for a water pump. We just built the house so the pump is almost new. I will call the well installer tomorrow to verify that this is the pump. But I know it is a 1hp pump; because it has a plate on the outside of the well; I am just not sure about the exact model. If it is that problematic - maybe i will just draw water from the shallow well and boil it first.
 
Yep, as far as i could tell. Watched a amp meter and watt meter as the pump would turn off and on. Highest amp reading was close to 15 amps or watt meter of 1800 watts.
Update, that is per each 110 leg.

Dare you to try to start it with a 3600 W inverter. (no cheating, has to be high frequency or otherwise lacking in surge capability)
:devilish:

I've watched needles peg (back when meters had needles.)

Bet your meter can't even register what happens in 1/6th of a second

 
Dare you to try to start it with a 3600 W inverter. (no cheating, has to be high frequency or otherwise lacking in surge capability)
:devilish:

I've watched needles peg (back when meters had needles.)

Bet your meter can't even register what happens in 1/6th of a second

You mean like my dual 4000 watt inverters that i have on my mirror dual solar setups with 2 battleborn batteries per each setup to create single phase 220?
 

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I believe this is the pump; https://www.pentair.com/en/products...0g-1-hp-10-gpm-4-submersible-3-wire-230v.html

I just called pentair and they said it was 2484 watts with a 5x surge - but that seems like a lot of watts for a water pump. We just built the house so the pump is almost new. I will call the well installer tomorrow to verify that this is the pump. But I know it is a 1hp pump; because it has a plate on the outside of the well; I am just not sure about the exact model. If it is that problematic - maybe i will just draw water from the shallow well and boil it first.

A 3-phase pump could be driven with a VFD, which would be soft-start. Doesn't look like this brand has that, so can't just change the motor. I take it the well is deep enough to need this model, or at least this model is more efficient for that depth.

The inverter I pointed out would cost $2200, $1200 more than the one you're considering, less than a new pump. But it would need a transformer too.
There are other models which could drive it as well. If you get a large, quality inverter it will be able to run many things.
 
i don't think its worth running the pump; i also have a 30' shallow well - i can just plum a small 12v submersible pump and run the shallow well water through the house for an emergency; and then just shock it the lines with chlorine before i switch over to the deep well. We get a good hurricane like once every 10 years; so I don't think it pays to go through such lengths just to run main well pump. I just wont drink it; and it should be fine.
 
Man I appreciate the advice; i know I would have messed this one up. So I called the manufacturer of the well pump; it is a 1HP 10.8Amps 240V 2,484 watts and 12,420 Surge Watts; they said they use 5X to calculate surge. Without knowing what I am talking about; that seems very high?
O MY GOD a well pump pulls that much power? I have a well on my land and im going to need a new pump for it and I wanted to power it with only solar. Will I still be able to do that? I know mine is a deepwell I just don't know how deep or what power pump I will need yet.
 
Is there any problem with using the DIY LIFEPO4 Fortune Batteries in place of the battle born batteries? Using the exact 2000Watt set up described on this website?
No problems, only issue and challenges doing it yourself but the reward is that you save lots of money and get the priceless satisfaction of new knowlege and a new skill set.
 
So the problem is solved: I will just buy this pump and put it the shallow well; that is currently empty: https://www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-Submersible-Alternative-Energy-Battery/dp/B015QRXWA6/ref=sr_1_5
shallow pump.jpg


So with that said; if I buy the following 4000watt inverter; with the midnight solar charger; combined with the 250watt solar panels - please let me know if you see any pitfalls before I make the purchase? Pleaseeee:) I don't want to mess this up; i Have a wife you know. Happy Wife - Happy Life. Thanks so much everyone for all the help with this!!! You all are amazing! I didn't know electricians were so friendly.

So the set up will be
(2) 24V A123 LFP Battery Box w/ BM - https://bigbattery.com/product/24v-a123-lfp-battery-box-w-bms-free-shipping
4000 Watt Charger - https://www.amazon.com/SUNGOLDPOWER...S4C702M/ref=pd_di_sccai_2/130-5873760-7686804
Midnight Classic Inverter - https://www.amazon.com/MidNite-Solar-Classic-Charge-Controller/dp/B01LY1J9XO/ref=sr_1_9
(10) 250 watt solar panels

(2) 24V A123 LFP Battery Box w/ BMS
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4000 Watt Inverter
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Midnight Classic 150
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It looks like I can run (10) 250 watt solar panels with this with 24V - or if i change it too 48V i can get (20) solar panels

These are the solar panels (used) I was looking at:
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O MY GOD a well pump pulls that much power? I have a well on my land and im going to need a new pump for it and I wanted to power it with only solar. Will I still be able to do that? I know mine is a deepwell I just don't know how deep or what power pump I will need yet.

Depends on depth and horsepower.
These deep well pumps are multiple horsepower and deliver several gallons per minute - ten times what you need for domestic use.
Only about 500 gallons/day needed for a house, not 500 gallons per hour.
"jack pumps" (miniature oil derricks) could be run slowly with a small motor, but I'm not finding them on the web.

If your well isn't terribly deep, you have options starting around 100W, like surflow pumps and others.

But you're going to build a 15 kW system, right? That'll run these pumps no problem.
 
Depends on depth and horsepower.
These deep well pumps are multiple horsepower and deliver several gallons per minute - ten times what you need for domestic use.
Only about 500 gallons/day needed for a house, not 500 gallons per hour.
"jack pumps" (miniature oil derricks) could be run slowly with a small motor, but I'm not finding them on the web.

If your well isn't terribly deep, you have options starting around 100W, like surflow pumps and others.

But you're going to build a 15 kW system, right? That'll run these pumps no problem.
Ok I got scared there for a min thinking 15kw would not do it if I had a higher HP pump.
 
I have found an interesting analogy to water and energy. My sister has a house in Mendocine County on a well. Every time her son shows up with his girlfriend and her three kids she panics because the flow rate of her well is only so many gallons. The real problem is not the flow rate of the well it is the size of the storage tank. A bigger tank could hold more water and could easily be filled during the 22 hours one of the visitors are not taking a shower or using the washing machine.
The analogy is not perfect. The batteries are the storage tank and the inverter is what provides the pressure on the tank to make the shower flow. The solar panels may be analogous to the capacity of the well in terms of daily output.
 
Yep, as far as i could tell. Watched a amp meter and watt meter as the pump would turn off and on. Highest amp reading was close to 15 amps or watt meter of 1800 watts.
Update, that is per each 110 leg.
Then you have no idea what the actual surge draw was. Amp meters have a a filter that will hide the actual surge.

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I would use a low value (< 0.01 ohm) power resistor as a shunt in the neutral wire and monitor startup current with my oscilloscope. There are meters you can buy that will measure surge, but they are not cheap.
 
Then you have no idea what the actual surge draw was. Amp meters have a a filter that will hide the actual surge.

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I would use a low value (< 0.01 ohm) power resistor as a shunt in the neutral wire and monitor startup current with my oscilloscope. There are meters you can buy that will measure surge, but they are not cheap.
You may be correct but it works anyways. That is all I care about.
 
You may be correct but it works anyways. That is all I care about.
Good enough. I am an EE so I like to work from requirements and design a system that I know will work rather than spend a lot of money and hope it will work.

Search the forum. Lots of people here have posted comments about their systems not being capable of starting the motor in a load they planned to use.
 
Good enough. I am an EE so I like to work from requirements and design a system that I know will work rather than spend a lot of money and hope it will work.

Search the forum. Lots of people here have posted comments about their systems not being capable of starting the motor in a load they planned to use.
I am sorry, I did not mean a slam to you at all. I am sure that you know a lot more than I do as far as this topic. What I wanted to accomplish originally was to just have basic back up lighting when our power went out. After I built the first system, I notice that it would do a lot more than I originally planned it for. It handled 5 circuits of lighting, full size fridge, washer, tv's etc. Because of that, I built a mirrored image of the setup so i could run 5 more circuits in the house with a manual transfer box. By doing this I also had created 220 service where I am able to power my well pump. Bear in mind this is a setup that has been in use for about a month so far but is working well. Still getting the bugs worked out. Replacing fuse/breakers that were crap. Making sure batteries stay balanced. Went from 2/ 100 amp batteries in series on one system to 4 batteries 2S/2P that just came in today. When I get the funds i will have 4 on each setup.
 
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I am sorry, I did not mean a slam to you at all. I am sure that you know a lot more than I do as far as this topic. What I wanted to accomplish originally was to just have basic back up lighting when our power went out. After I built the first system, I notice that it would do a lot more than I originally planned it for. It handled 5 circuits of lighting, full size fridge, washer, tv's etc. Because of that, I built a mirrored image of the setup so i could run 5 more circuits in the house with a manual transfer box. By doing this I also had created 220 service where I am able to power my well pump. Bear in mind this is a setup that has been in use for about a month so far but is working well.
I didn't take it as a slam at all. I am glad your system is working for you.

I will be retiring to an area with deep wells and I think a solar powered well makes fantastic sense (with a large holding tank taking the place of batteries).

I haven't purchased a property yet so I will end up with whatever pump the previous owner installed. I will be my usual overanalytical self and calculate precisely what it takes to start the pump, then double it.

Did I mention I am a very conservative design engineer? I really don't like things to fail and would rather pay enough to do it right in the first place rather than have to do it over again.

As an example, here is the system I am installing in a Ford E350 camper van conversion I am doing.

25.6V, 3000 WH LiNMC Battery pack (DIY)
Victron Multiplus 24/2000-50
Victron 100/20 Smartsolar
Victron Orion TR 12/24-15 Smart charger (alternator charging)
Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor
Everything else is BlueSea components.
Renogy 300W 24V solar panel on roof. Option for a second 300W panel on ground mount.

Yes I know this is overkill.
 
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I didn't take it as a slam at all. I am glad your system is working for you.

I will be retiring to an area with deep wells and I think a solar powered well makes fantastic sense (with a large holding tank taking the place of batteries).

I haven't purchased a property yet so I will end up with whatever pump the previous owner installed. I will be my usual overanalytical self and calculate precisely what it takes to start the pump, then double it.

Did I mention I am a very conservative design engineer? I really don't like things to fail and would rather pay enough to do it right in the first place rather than have to do it over again.

Here is the system I am installing in a Ford E350 camper van conversion I am doing.

25.6V, 3000 WH LiNMC Battery pack (DIY)
Victron Multiplus 2000/24-50
Victron 100/20 Smartsolar
Victron Orion TR 12/24-15
Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor
Everything else is BlueSea components.
Renogy 300W 24V solar panel.

Yes I know this is overkill.

Consider a 3-phase pump (or motor on your existing pump.) With a VFD, you could control its analog input to either maintain Vmp coming from panels to DC bus of VFD, or maintain line frequency between 60.5 Hz and 61 Hz for a system that uses frequency shift to throttle GT inverters.

That way, you use PV power as it is generated to operate the pump, adjusting pump speed to match power available.

(fyi, I think the VFD on my pool pump upset my transformerless GT inverter. At first I though the high frequency pulses used to drive motor, but maybe it is the diode/cap circuit on input of VFD. Need a better VFD, with power-factor corrected input.)

Alternatively, I've noticed that the gpm from those pumps is way over what a house needs. So unless you're irrigating a farm, a much smaller displacement pump would meet the need. Years ago I saw jack pumps on the Real Goods website, don't see any now. I looked at the specs of a cheap 120V pressure washer and realized those positive displacement pumps would be ideal; they could be run slower to match desired output. Probably contain too much lead in the brass, though.
 
Years ago I saw jack pumps on the Real Goods website,
Haha, that was before Marijuana cultivation was legal and a lot of the cultivation was away from civilization and power. Solar powered irrigation was the only solution then. Much of the economy of Mendocino County has changed since legalization.
 
Consider a 3-phase pump (or motor on your existing pump.) With a VFD, you could control its analog input to either maintain Vmp coming from panels to DC bus of VFD, or maintain line frequency between 60.5 Hz and 61 Hz for a system that uses frequency shift to throttle GT inverters.

That way, you use PV power as it is generated to operate the pump, adjusting pump speed to match power available.

(fyi, I think the VFD on my pool pump upset my transformerless GT inverter. At first I though the high frequency pulses used to drive motor, but maybe it is the diode/cap circuit on input of VFD. Need a better VFD, with power-factor corrected input.)

Alternatively, I've noticed that the gpm from those pumps is way over what a house needs. So unless you're irrigating a farm, a much smaller displacement pump would meet the need. Years ago I saw jack pumps on the Real Goods website, don't see any now. I looked at the specs of a cheap 120V pressure washer and realized those positive displacement pumps would be ideal; they could be run slower to match desired output. Probably contain too much lead in the brass, though.
I absolutely will use a VFD if there is a 3 phase pump. But I seriously doubt if that is what I will find, unless I buy a farm which is not what I was planning on doing.

I have used VFD drives on the past, they offer a tremendous value. I would only replace the well pump if it needed to be replaced.

The comment about using variable speed to take advantage of lower solar input is a very good idea.
 
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