diy solar

diy solar

2000w solar system less than $1750

Epic first post, eh? Not gonna live that one down.
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Sorry guys I thought my kid closed it out I didn't know it got posted. I'm not smart enough to edit this, so here it goes. 8-250w sunpower panels mounted in a 4s configuration sending 200v to separate midnight classic 250-cp controllers. front.jpgrack4.jpgrack5.jpgcontrollers1.jpg
 
Is this a show and tell situation, are are you looking for something? If Show and Tell, I'll move the thread.
 
Is this a show and tell situation, are are you looking for something? If Show and Tell, I'll move the thread.
If you wanna delete the whole thing I understand LOL I can repost it in the right place. maybe on a better day
lol
 
Moved.

12V system?

That's a lotta solar. I like the solution for avoiding shading at the rear A/C unit. You have all-electric compressor fridge? I don't see the fridge vent.

What confounds me is all that unoccupied roof space on that trailer. MOAR PANELS!

Lastly, where is that? My brain sees AZ everywhere... :)
 
Moved.

12V system?

That's a lotta solar. I like the solution for avoiding shading at the rear A/C unit. You have all-electric compressor fridge? I don't see the fridge vent.

What confounds me is all that unoccupied roof space on that trailer. MOAR PANELS!

Lastly, where is that? My brain sees AZ everywhere... :)
I have 780w on the trailer. I don't trust the way the roof is built to carry a full deck of panels. The conduit on the combiner box runs into the side of the refer vent about an inch off the roof so I don't have to worry about leaking. the panels are sending 200v to the controllers so they are in conduit all the way down. The goal is to move up to a 24v bank and a mini-split. once thats done the front AC is getting trashed, and the rest of the roof will get filled in. I should be able to fit another 1200w.
 
If the roof isn't strong enough for panels (which is easy to believe) it might be best to build a frame that attaches to the walls only and put the panels on it. Try to keep any possible load off the roof. Cables should go thru the walls also. Leaks on the usual fiberglass RV roofs are powerful misery.

And absolutely ditch the roof AC unit if at all possible. I've seen a lot of older RVs and those roof units both aren't very efficient, and always end up leaking rainwater after several years. Costly to repair also (judging by the complaints of some friends).

Why wire the panels in series if it's only a 12v system? Your charge controllers will handle a lot more current than this.
 
If the roof isn't strong enough for panels (which is easy to believe) it might be best to build a frame that attaches to the walls only and put the panels on it. Try to keep any possible load off the roof. Cables should go thru the walls also. Leaks on the usual fiberglass RV roofs are powerful misery.

And absolutely ditch the roof AC unit if at all possible. I've seen a lot of older RVs and those roof units both aren't very efficient, and always end up leaking rainwater after several years. Costly to repair also (judging by the complaints of some friends).

Why wire the panels in series if it's only a 12v system? Your charge controllers will handle a lot more current than this.
I did high voltage to keep wire losses as low as possible. By doing a 4s 200v configuration I used #8 wire from the roof down because it was free, but I could have used #10 and still been well within safe limits. When I installed the system I wasn't sure what my bank voltage was going to be for future upgrades. The way I have it set up everything can easily be upgraded by simply changing the bank and inverter.
 
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