210A fuse
- Thread starter sonny93
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mikefitz
Solar Wizard
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Those fuse values are a bit low, most inverters will have a surge rating higher than that.
Use a 225 or 250 amp fuse. This fuse should be as close to the battery positive as practical. It protests the cable between the battery to the inverter, and inverter internal components, from excess current flow that could result from a fault condition.
Mike
Use a 225 or 250 amp fuse. This fuse should be as close to the battery positive as practical. It protests the cable between the battery to the inverter, and inverter internal components, from excess current flow that could result from a fault condition.
Mike
chrisski
Solar Boondocker
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When you get the fuse, I recommend also looking in the owners manual to see what type of fuse. My owners manual calls for a class T fuse, which is quick blow. Other fuses like ANL will take minutes at the fuses rating to blow, or will quick blow in milliseconds at several times the rating.
If you want to understand the fusing, you can take the inverters low voltage cutoff, say 10.5 volts and calculate amperage flowing, and also at charging voltage to figure out amperage flowing, and you end up getting quite a difference with much more amperage at the lower volts. After my install, even towards the max inverter production, I never had my voltage dip anywhere near the low voltage cutoff.
If you want to understand the fusing, you can take the inverters low voltage cutoff, say 10.5 volts and calculate amperage flowing, and also at charging voltage to figure out amperage flowing, and you end up getting quite a difference with much more amperage at the lower volts. After my install, even towards the max inverter production, I never had my voltage dip anywhere near the low voltage cutoff.
what is this based on?
mikefitz
Solar Wizard
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Which particular part of my statement ?
Everything except the terminal proximity.
mikefitz
Solar Wizard
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It was suggested to use a 210 amp fuse. These are not easily available, I suggested the next higher value that is available.
A 2000 watt inverter at full power will take 170 amps plus extra current to cover power loss from cable loss and inverter efficiency, say 20 amps. Its normal to allow overhead on the fuse rating which gets into the 225 to 250 range.
Many inverters have an overload rating up to twice the continuous rating, some allow this excess for several seconds or longer to allow starting of loads like motors. If the inverter were to be used in such an application the fuse and perhaps cables would need up rating to allow for the higher current.
Its good engineering practice and even the law in many situations, that states cables and systems need over current protection at or very near the power source.
I still dont understand the comment 'what is it based on'.
Mike
A 2000 watt inverter at full power will take 170 amps plus extra current to cover power loss from cable loss and inverter efficiency, say 20 amps. Its normal to allow overhead on the fuse rating which gets into the 225 to 250 range.
Many inverters have an overload rating up to twice the continuous rating, some allow this excess for several seconds or longer to allow starting of loads like motors. If the inverter were to be used in such an application the fuse and perhaps cables would need up rating to allow for the higher current.
Its good engineering practice and even the law in many situations, that states cables and systems need over current protection at or very near the power source.
I still dont understand the comment 'what is it based on'.
Mike
Ah I see it's a compensation for overload at startup of the inverter. I just don't understand why Will would not have mentioned this in his book.
So I need to rate my cables and fuses for the startup "max power" and not the Watts the inverter is capable of providing?
I can't find the startup max power for this inverter, would that indicate that it starts at 2000W?
Edit: The instructions indicate that it needs a 250Adc fuse
