I do not have direct experience with the EG43K, but that looks correct.
A couple of observations:
1) AC In breaker size
The 60A breaker on the AC side seems a bit high. 6000W/120V=25A The manual talks about using 10AWG for the AC wires. For 10AWG wires, it should be a 30A breaker. If a larger breaker is used, a larger wire would be needed and I do not know if the connectors on the inverter can handle larger wires.
Note: I have always wondered what the true max current on the AC in is. If in pass-through mode, presumably, it can pass through 3000W (3000W/120V=25A). The spec sheet says it can charge 60A into the battery. (60x55V = 3300W) On the AC side, this is 3000W/120V=27.5A. If it is in passthrough and charging at the same time this would be 25A + 27.5A = 52.5A. This would need at least a 6 AWG wire and the 60A breaker as you show. I presume the inverter reduces the battery charge as the output load ramps up...... but I can not confirm that.
2) AC out breaker placement.
The drawing implies the 30A double pole breaker is external to the load box. Why not use breakers in the load box?
So fun fact, the online manual, paper manual, and SS customer service have managed to give me FOUR different answers on AC breaker size.
For my own use case I went with a 30A breaker, and I've just set my charging current fairly low. In the case of needing to charge via a generator bypass input I can adjust it.
The inverter does NOT adjust the charging automatically sadly.
Note I am using a single Unit and have not tested charging behavior with more than a single unit.
My unit did NOT come with the internal grounding screw (as in other recently shipped EG4 units) but DOES disconnect N in and N out.
Per advice on this forum I have tied N in and N out to maintain the N-G bond from the main panel even when inverting, and have verified for MY unit it does not cause a double bond. I have NOT seen a software update for the smaller inverters that the bigger ones have (to change the internal bonding relay behavior.
You can test if you have the screw by checking continuity (with the inverter OFF and disconnected) between case ground (and AC in ground) and N out, and between N in and N out.
- If you have the ground screw and the same firmware I do, you will see continuity between N out and ground only.
- If the relay is engaged (not sure if it is latching) you'll see continuity between the N in and N out but NOT with ground.
- If you see NO continuity then you 99% do not have a ground screw.
- If you get continuity between all 3, it's defective somehow.