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230v for mobile minisplit

A 240V minisplit will have a 240V indoor blower.
There is no neutral connection on a 240V minisplit.
i am no expert at electricity at all i just try n be as safe as i can with it,if its a European model i say it belongs in Europe if its a north American then i feel safer wiring it here weather its because of warranty or codes
 
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i have learned that the higher the seer the better efficiency ,a seer of 21.5 in a 110 volt system to me seems awesome, and i have installed some GE mini splits that just suck and don't even come with a seer rating
i have seen japanese mini splits and installed two of them and repaired them and because of there inverter based system running dc motors etc they seem to be the best and most efficient
 
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I'm looking for a 110v mini split unit with 3 ceiling cassettes and CANNOT find one. Is it because the amperage is too high for multi zone?
 
I'm looking for a 110v mini split unit with 3 ceiling cassettes and CANNOT find one. Is it because the amperage is too high for multi zone?
I don't know if I've seen anything above 12k btu for that voltage. So I'd guess you can't find what you're looking for because 4k btu per head wouldn't have a very common application.
 
what's considered a "high" SEER minisplit?

pioneer makes 21.5 SEER mini splits that are 110v

I'm thinking 28-31. They cost and extra 500-600, but consume 25-30% less power. That is pretty reasonable when you think of how much less you have to spend on the power side.
 
i am no expert at electricity at all i just try n be as safe as i can with it,if its a European model i say it belongs in Europe if its a north American then i feel safer wiring it here weather its because of warranty or codes
Thanks. While it seems like I might be able to get a NA minisplit to run with EU230 power, I think it opens too many cans of worms (e.g., any warranty is shot, could be trouble if I sell etc.) But the engineer and HAM in me really wants to try it.
 
I would need to burn a lot of additional generator gasoline to compensate for the additional $500 - $600. Sure eventually I would break even and get some ROI, but I'll be dead or have sold my rig by then. The 25-30% less power benefits me by running on batteries longer and not having the Victron auto switch the gen on as often.
 
I would need to burn a lot of additional generator gasoline to compensate for the additional $500 - $600. Sure eventually I would break even and get some ROI, but I'll be dead or have sold my rig by then. The 25-30% less power benefits me by running on batteries longer and not having the Victron auto switch the gen on as often.
Makes a lot sense. If I had the generator already, the math might be different. I want to see how far I can push without a generator - with fallback go without AC or use the 200a 24v alternator. Rationale on generator is that I'd like to stay single fuel and diesel gensets are $$.
 
Makes a lot sense. If I had the generator already, the math might be different. I want to see how far I can push without a generator - with fallback go without AC or use the 200a 24v alternator. Rationale on generator is that I'd like to stay single fuel and diesel gensets are $$.

In my case, I would go with a propane genset before diesel. I do a lot of camping in the cold and I don't want to have to worry about my diesel gelling. I can manage that in my diesel truck, but I just don't want to have that issue in the RV.

Propane in a genset has its negatives too. But not having to worry about having fresh fuel is a big plus.
 
In my case, I would go with a propane genset before diesel. I do a lot of camping in the cold and I don't want to have to worry about my diesel gelling. I can manage that in my diesel truck, but I just don't want to have that issue in the RV.

Propane in a genset has its negatives too. But not having to worry about having fresh fuel is a big plus.

Thanks! If I go genset will definitely investigate. Still like single fuel but propane may be better than gasoline.
 
3] Larger Multiplus with Autotransformer
<> Multiplus 24/5000/120
<> Autotransformer 100A
+ Like 1] - simple design
+ More shore power / charging vs 1]
+ More 120v capacity if I needed it when the AC is off
- Can't cut the 0 load/search loss as 1] (30w/10w vs 20w/8w)

Thanks!
Is 3] really an option?... The 5K Multiplus that I‘be seen on the Victron website is 230V.
 
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I saw mini split with DC FAN motors - inside and out. - I think it was Daikin.
Correct, but they are powered with ac. There is inverter tech that controls the dc output. Pretty much all minisplits are.

but if the unit is powered with 240V on the outdoor unit, there will be 240 on the indoor unit as well... the outdoor unit powers the indoor unit.
 
Correct, but they are powered with ac. There is inverter tech that controls the dc output. Pretty much all minisplits are.

but if the unit is powered with 240V on the outdoor unit, there will be 240 on the indoor unit as well... the outdoor unit powers the indoor unit.
so very likely those Fan motors are the same - no matter if 120V or 240V Just the fan power supply is 240 or 120V

I think even the 3 Phase Compressor Motors are the same. So is the efficiency difference in those units just in the Converter/Inverter Boards? is 240V to DC more efficient then 120V ? Doesn't make sense to me
 
I'm looking for a 110v mini split unit with 3 ceiling cassettes and CANNOT find one. Is it because the amperage is too high for multi zone?
the standard 115V circuit @ 15A design doesn't allow for much more then 15.000 BTU at current technology.

For safety purpose you can only run 80% continuous that means 12A - 1380W - most better A/C units produce about 10-12 BTU per Watt.
So the theoretic max for a power source like this is 16560 BTU.

An A/C manufacturer could decide to put in a 20A or 30A 115V design. But then they would get tons of returns when people hook them up to outlets and they are popping breakers.
 
so very likely those Fan motors are the same - no matter if 120V or 240V Just the fan power supply is 240 or 120V

I think even the 3 Phase Compressor Motors are the same. So is the efficiency difference in those units just in the Converter/Inverter Boards? is 240V to DC more efficient then 120V ? Doesn't make sense to me
I think the dc voltage is 300V, so maybe from 120 to 300 is less efficient than from 240?
 
I think the dc voltage is 300V, so maybe from 120 to 300 is less efficient than from 240?
A SEER of 20 at a 115V unit vs a SEER of up to 38 at 240V would suggest that one needs 30% more power then the other.

That would be a insanely bad power supply/ controller for the 115V. There must be something other in the equation.

I think 115V have a much lower market share and don't get as much technological development. In many technologies you see stagnation when there is little competition. I most of the world runs on 230/240V and only North America does 115V.

Maybe it's just something to with how they do the BTU rating. I noticed Mini splits are all over the place what they actually can deliver sustained.
230V could have different rating agency then the 115V :p
 
I’ve been running a 240v TOSOT mini split for nearly a year now. 38 seer.

I’m running it in my box truck with a 24v system and a 4000 watt Magnum inverter that outputs 240v.

System absolutely kicks ass in the summer. Cools down my truck and keeps it cold while drawing around 300 watts.

Heating is a different story. The 240v system really kicks in when it’s very cold. There is a heating plate in the compressor to keep it from freezing up.

Supposed to create heat to -24 degrees. We had a cold snap to -14 and it worked great. Was pulling about 2400 watts though! Normally uses 1-1.6k watts with temp in the teens.
 
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