24v 2000w, 600w solar wiring diagram

[rolandbremb]

Hi!

I'm currently building out my van to a camper, and just recently started planning my electrical system. I spent quite some time watching videos on youtube, reading books and other sources on the web.

I've attached my preliminary wiring diagram, and would really appreciate anyone's input (especially on wire/fuse sizing). My head is going to explore pretty soon otherwise lol

some additional thoughts:

• I plan on adding a AiLi Voltmeter, but wasn't sure if the 100A or the 350A would fit my system.
• I also plan on adding an ATS, but not really sure how that exactly works yet.
• Would I be fine with 4AWG instead of 2AWG?

Thanks,
Roland

 

[rolandbremb]

Here's a better quality picture!

 

[rolandbremb]

help!

 

[mikefitz]

AiLi Voltmeter, but wasn't sure if the 100A or the 350A

the shunts overheat, use the larger.

Fuses protect the cable run and need to be at the most powerful source, thus all the feeds from the positive buss bar need the fuse at the buss bar,
from Victron,

I would stay with 2AWG for the high current cables at the battery and inverter.

The feed from the B to B , increase to 10AWG or 6AWG, you dont want volt drops here.

also plan on adding an ATS, but not really sure how that exactly works yet.

Assuming this is an auto transfer switch for shore/inverter power the better option is to use an inverter or invreter charger with the transfer switch incorporated in the unit.

Mike

 

[John Frum]

Since you appear to have a 12 volt fuse block(which presumes 12 volt loads) and a 12 volt alternator and your inverter is only 2000 watts, why not do a 12 volt system?

 

[John Frum]

The pv disconnect is only rated to 32 volts which is way under spec.

 

[rolandbremb]

Since you appear to have a 12 volt fuse block(which presumes 12 volt loads) and a 12 volt alternator and your inverter is only 2000 watts, why not do a 12 volt system?

Thanks for the input!

The main reason are my 620W, high voltage solar panels. I couldn't find a reasonable priced MPPT with 120+V and 50+A.

I also decided to try the Growatt 24V SPF 3000TL to keep the costs low as it acts as inverter/charger/ATS.

 

[rolandbremb]

The pv disconnect is only rated to 32 volts which is way under spec.

oh my mistake.... that should say 32A.

Thanks for pointing that out!

 

[rolandbremb]

the shunts overheat, use the larger.

Fuses protect the cable run and need to be at the most powerful source, thus all the feeds from the positive buss bar need the fuse at the buss bar,
from Victron,
View attachment 39156
I would stay with 2AWG for the high current cables at the battery and inverter.

The feed from the B to B , increase to 10AWG or 6AWG, you dont want volt drops here.


Assuming this is an auto transfer switch for shore/inverter power the better option is to use an inverter or invreter charger with the transfer switch incorporated in the unit.

Mike

B2B: yes I was thinking about that since the cable is going to fairly long as well. Thanks!

Fuses: That's interesting. So for every load that goes from the bus bar to the source, you'd recommend installing a mega fuse?

ATS: yes, and I've decided to give the Growatt 3000 a chance.

 

[John Frum]

This is how I figure the max dc draw for an inverter.
For an high frequency inverter, conversion factor = .85
For a low frequency inverter, conversion factor = .66

dc amps = ac watts / conversion factor / low voltage cutoff

overcurrent protection headroom factor is .8

ocp amps = dc amps / overcurrent protection headroom factor