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24V diagram review for travel trailer please

You add a double safety factor there. Fudge Factor + Fuse Headroom.
I'm running my 3000W Growatt with 2 awg wire on a 24V CHINS.

And that thing puts out true 3000w. I can run my 13500BTU A/C unit (1200w running) and a Microwave - at the same time. Sits right a 95% capacity - just shy of 3000W. It even survives the surge of both appliances.

At those 3000W - the battery voltage sits around 25-26V and I'm pulling roughly 120A.
The 2 gauge wire is not even getting warm and a 4 FT run.


your fuse should not only protect the wiring but also the connected devices. When the inverter is designed to 150A - installing a 250A - might melt it internally / burning - instead of blowing the fuse in the case of a short - go with the fuse size the manufacturer recommends

You can use the larger wire if you want to reduce voltage drop- you can have 0/1 gauge with a 25A fuse. But don't go oversize with the fuse.
What size is your battery bank? I bought four Chins 12-volt 200ah batteries configured into 24-volt 400ah I'm setting up in my RV and want to run my rooftop during the day and a small window unit at night when down here on the coast. This is with 2000 watts of panels. I also have a 4kw dual fuel generator. I'm plugged into 30a shore power at some mom-and-pop RV park a lot of the time.
 
What size is your battery bank? I bought four Chins 12-volt 200ah batteries configured into 24-volt 400ah I'm setting up in my RV and want to run my rooftop during the day and a small window unit at night when down here on the coast. This is with 2000 watts of panels. I also have a 4kw dual fuel generator. I'm plugged into 30a shore power at some mom-and-pop RV park a lot of the time.

here my thread about my system built. I've added to the 24V Amperetime 100AH a 24V 200Ah CHINS.

So I'm totaling 24V and 300A which is roughly 7.5kwh
You got a total of 10kwh.

I'm running my 13,500 Rooftop A/C fine for a few hours, but that's because I have only installed two panels (2x 435w) and need to rearranged stuff to get more up there.
 
You add a double safety factor there. Fudge Factor + Fuse Headroom.
Yes I did.
The fudge factor effects the service current.
The Fuse headroom effects the fault current.
A simpler way to do the math is to just pretend that volt amps are watts and that the device is 85% efficient instead of better than 90%.
3000 watts / .85 conversion factor / 24 volts low cutoff = 147.058823529 service amps.
instead of
2400 va * 1.5 lf fudge factor / 24 volts low cutoff = 150 service amps.
 
You add a double safety factor there. Fudge Factor + Fuse Headroom.
I'm running my 3000W Growatt with 2 awg wire on a 24V CHINS.

And that thing puts out true 3000w. I can run my 13500BTU A/C unit (1200w running) and a Microwave - at the same time. Sits right a 95% capacity - just shy of 3000W. It even survives the surge of both appliances.

At those 3000W - the battery voltage sits around 25-26V and I'm pulling roughly 120A.
The 2 gauge wire is not even getting warm and a 4 FT run.


your fuse should not only protect the wiring but also the connected devices. When the inverter is designed to 150A - installing a 250A - might melt it internally / burning - instead of blowing the fuse in the case of a short - go with the fuse size the manufacturer recommends

You can use the larger wire if you want to reduce voltage drop- you can have 0/1 gauge with a 25A fuse. But don't go oversize with the fuse.
This has been a great, educational conversation. I appreciate the continued feedback and discussion.

For the multiplus 24/3000/70, Victron recommends 1/0 cable for lengths up to 5 meters and 2/0 cable for 5 to 10 meters. Victron also recommends a 300A DC fuse for the multiplus 24/3000/70.

I plan to use 2/0 cable from battery to shunt/distributor and from shunt/distributor to multiplus. Length will be under 5 meters. Limiting voltage drop is worth the extra cost in my opinion. I'll probably go with a 250A DC fuse.
 
This has been a great, educational conversation. I appreciate the continued feedback and discussion.

For the multiplus 24/3000/70, Victron recommends 1/0 cable for lengths up to 5 meters and 2/0 cable for 5 to 10 meters. Victron also recommends a 300A DC fuse for the multiplus 24/3000/70.

I plan to use 2/0 cable from battery to shunt/distributor and from shunt/distributor to multiplus. Length will be under 5 meters. Limiting voltage drop is worth the extra cost in my opinion. I'll probably go with a 250A DC fuse.
What helped was the provided schematic laying out your system, thereby putting everyone on the same page. Often, you get a question about a system still in someone's mind who is not yet literate enough on the topic to describe it where others, who might be able to help, can all visualize the same system well enough to be of any real help. Did I say that right? Anyhow, yes, it is a good thread. Being I'm doing basically the same system; It helped me a lot.
 
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