diy solar

diy solar

24v system in Host Cascade

I don't think so. If I find it is getting too hot, then I will probably add some fans to circulate the air. There are already some air ducts connecting the camper to that area to keep the pipes from freezing. Also, I want to make sure the batteries don't freeze, so being close to the water tanks should act as a pretty good temperature regulator.
 
Alright. I am back. I am putting a schematic of my setup up for critic. I am sure I am missing some things1650392292542.jpeg
 
Do I put a fuse between the bms and the batteries or after. I printed off the schematic above and it shows the main fuse after the batteries which would have the bms in them.
 
I've been confused by this because when I've seen schematics of this it has shown a fuse between the bms and the batteries. But, when I've seen prebuilt batteries I've never seen anyone show a fuse there when they do a breakdown. Just the BMS going directly to the battery.
 
Do I put a fuse between the bms and the batteries or after. I printed off the schematic above and it shows the main fuse after the batteries which would have the bms in them.

Yeah, I wasn't quite clear on that. The 200 amp fuse is between the BMS and the bus bar. Then the inverter connects from the bus bar with the 175 amp fuse between the bus bar and the inverter.

I always think of the BMS and the battery as a single entity. Most of the time.
 
That's what I was thinking. Things to do today but I will Try another schematic with updates later. Thanks for the help.
 
Okay, so I am preparing to install the Samlex all in one. However after reading on here about some of the buss bars I have a question. I bought two 150A nickel plated copper 6 lug buss bars. The T-fuse for the Samlex is the recommended 175A. Should I be using a higher rated buss bar for this build? This is a 24v system. Then inverter is 2200 watts. 30 amp camper. Recommended wiring 2 AWG.
 
Got a link to the bus bar? 150 amp seems a little light but Victron has 150 amp bus bars that are rated for 70 volts. Is that 150 amps at 70 volts or 150 amps no matter what the volts? The latter doesn't make sense to me but the Victron datasheet doesn't provide clarity.
 

I read the ad and I don't see where it explicitly states 150 amp at 300 volts. Besides, the 300 volt rating is AC, not DC. The DC rating is 48 volts.

The bar looks a little puny to me. A red flag is that the image says the bar is brass, but the text says copper. It can't be both. You don't want brass.

Only two large lugs (6 gauge and larger?) could be attached singly, or four if you stacked them. That wouldn't work in my system.

I would keep looking for a better bus bar.
 

While I think the bus bar will actually support the declared specs, are you sure you can get by with just two 1/4" studs? If you're buying pre-made cables you may find that the lugs are 5/16" or 3/8", not 1/4". I prefer a 1/4" stud because it increases the available surface contact area. The larger studs are good for making a stronger connection. With enough strain relief I'm not sure that you need the larger studs. (Have I completely confused you here? I'm arguing both sides, aren't I?)

As long as you stick with 24 volt you're OK. This bus bar is not spec'd for a 48 volt battery system because that type of system spends the majority of its life well above 48 volts. Should you ever decide to move up to 48 volts (very unusual in a truck camper) you should replace the bus bar.

In a truck camper space is always a consideration. So a smaller bar like this may be just what you need.
 
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