28' fema trailer gutted. What hardware to buy for total coverage roof solar.

[namesgolden]

I stumbled across a 28' fema trailer that had to be gutted. I did that over the weekend. its down to wood and sheet metal.

the seams at front and rear had never been re-sealed by the original owners, the pipe vents crumbled, let rain in -- but the membrane is in great shape. an entire rig ruined by neglect in the first few years -- then someone put stick and bricks flat roof membrane and flashing on it, long after the damage was done. 80+of the roof and floor is solid.

the goal is to use it as a bathhouse/laundry/pantry/storage/solar array mount and shed.

I don't anticipate on moving it more than 20 miles (to wherever we buy land) -- kinda a shame because it pulls GREAT.

immediate goals:

* remove EVERYTHING on the roof -- a/c, two plumbing vents, roof air vent.
* remove the hackjob tar paper and flashing repairs (this is gonna be awful) OR go all in with the same materials -- there will be another roof of solar above it anyway.
* build structure to accommodate up to 18 65x40 solar panels (there will be at least 1' of overhang)
* remove all exterior potential water leaks. lights, vents, A/C
* replace or delete some windows.

I am using 60cell santan panels. initally with a mpp and lead acid (already on hand), eventually electrodacus and lifepo4

what mounting hardware and methods should I use? I'm guessing four runs of metal channel.

can you show me any examples of other "anything goes" trailer installs or mounting methods that may work for me?

after the roof is done I will insulate and build out the interior. considering just making the walls OSB.

 

[namesgolden]

also, what is the best affordable method to seal corners?

 

[Elevation]

I don’t mean to be a busy body, but you have to treat that mold and rot for the safety and health of your family. And all the way through. Both are like treating cancer. It will come back. You have a lot of hard work ahead.
FYI: I have restored four trailers when I was younger.

 

[Supervstech]

Oh man... that is pretty bad. It all looks repairable though. I would disassemble the roof and walls, replace the entire floor with young and groove plywood flooring, and rebuild the rotted boards... I’ve been doing similar repairs to my mother’s manufactured home for years... a tree came down on it a decade ago, and the shoddy patching that was done at the time didn’t do the house any favors. I had to completely rebuild from scratch the roof framing, the sheeting, the walls, and floors... soooo time consuming, but her house is dry and solid where I rebuilt it... the rest is rotting away... particle board is NOT A GOOD BUILDING MATERIAL IN THE SOUTH!!! So much is just melting... I will eventually replace every floor in her house!

 

[Elevation]

Besides decades of construction and a degree in architecture there are two principles to keep in mind. Whether it is St. Patrick’s Cathedral or a deer camp. “You must keep the water out.’ Or it will eventually destroy your structure.
Also, “A threefold cord is not easily broken.” When building or repairing structural member, form a triangle. Until you do it won’t be strong. This can also include a“structural skin” as your triangle.
Hard work is gratifying. Bless you.

 

[HRTKD]

I've been repairing my RV trailer over the past year from water damage. I didn't take it down to the studs like that. Mine has fiberglass sides that delaminated at the front corners. It looks like you have aluminum skin on yours which is a lot easier to deal with than fiberglass.

That's a lot of structural damage. I don't envy you one bit.

There are spray-on roof replacements, but they're expensive. For that trailer, figure a minimum of $5,000. Probably way more than you want to invest, but it has a lifetime guarantee.

 

[namesgolden]

I don’t mean to be a busy body, but you have to treat that mold and rot for the safety and health of your family.
FYI: I have restored four trailers when I was younger.

I'm an allergy sufferer that lives in the south. mold/mildew prevention and remediation is just part of my life. I ran the a/c nonstop for days and to help dry it. once I get it sealed up better I'll be cutting out anything that looks bad. I also need to work on a couple vintage TT roofs this summer

Oh man... that is pretty bad. It all looks repairable though. I would disassemble the roof and walls, replace the entire floor with young and groove plywood flooring, and rebuild the rotted boards... I’ve been doing similar repairs to my mother’s manufactured home for years... a tree came down on it a decade ago, and the shoddy patching that was done at the time didn’t do the house any favors. I had to completely rebuild from scratch the roof framing, the sheeting, the walls, and floors... soooo time consuming, but her house is dry and solid where I rebuilt it... the rest is rotting away... particle board is NOT A GOOD BUILDING MATERIAL IN THE SOUTH!!! So much is just melting... I will eventually replace every floor in her house!

I'll redo the weak parts, but If I disassemble it anymore past fixing the rot it's just going to become a utility trailer.

I've been repairing my RV trailer over the past year from water damage. I didn't take it down to the studs like that. Mine has fiberglass sides that delaminated at the front corners. It looks like you have aluminum skin on yours which is a lot easier to deal with than fiberglass.

That's a lot of structural damage. I don't envy you one bit.

There are spray-on roof replacements, but they're expensive. For that trailer, figure a minimum of $5,000. Probably way more than you want to invest, but it has a lifetime guarantee.

the rubber roof is in awesome shape, the ONLY leaks were around penetrations/corners where you expect leaks and should routinely seal.

I need to check all the fiberglass panels on my motorhome I guess.

 

[Elevation]

You mentioned your roof leaked at the roof penetrations: There is a Dicor lap sealant, self-leveling. Comes in an ordinary caulk tube and it is great stuff. I use it a lot, about $11./tube and worth it. I’ve used it on commercial metal roofs also.Be sure to throughly clean the surface beforehand. Note; there is also non self leveling, read the tube. I’ve had to take It back to the RV parts supply. Adjust your mind it does self-level and dries, but always remains soft.

 

[Hedges]

"I am using 60cell santan panels. initally with a mpp and lead acid (already on hand), eventually electrodacus and lifepo4

what mounting hardware and methods should I use? I'm guessing four runs of metal channel."

There are options without making any roof penetrations.
Some are "balasted", held in place with weights. Of course that has to stay put in high winds.
Apparently, the biggest claim to fame that Solyndra had was wind would pass through their solar collector tubes, so balasted arrays could go on commercial flat roofs.

What I did for a job on a shake roof was use u-channel as rails and penetrate the roof only at the ridge and the eves.
You could use suitable straps to hold rails down on the curved roof, securing the straps past the eves.

Unless you live near the equator, your roof slope isn't optimum for PV. You can consider mounts that provide tilt, spaced far enough to avoid shading. Or, since panels are so cheap these days, just follow slope of the roof. That'll maximize summer production but you won't get much in winter. Or make mounts that hang off the side as awnings for some or all panels.

 

[namesgolden]

You mentioned your roof leaked at the roof penetrations: There is a Dicor lap sealant, self-leveling.

Yeah I intend to buy a case of both kinds of dicor and a roll of eternabond for quick fixes.

Currently on the fema trailer I'm doing temp fixes with aluminum tape til I determine what I'm going to use for long term.

our vintage TT's have been painted with koolseal in the past, so they'll get that again I guess.

sadly my diesel pusher has been done with flexseal so not many things will bond to it, but I'm at least a year away from messing with it.

There are options without making any roof penetrations.

you, and others, are missing the point of this thread. I don't mind making penetrations if I do it properly, the thing is gutted and is not going to be lived in. its just a solar shed that I can move.