diy solar

diy solar

280ah Battery Top and Bottom Support Design.

I have tried to update thingiverse. Try this link and see if you can download directly from there now.

 
With all the talk about keeping the sides of these large cells compressed. It started to have me concerned with my original plans to mimic the fortune type battery fixtures. So this week I printed fillers to go between the cells. Then I designed end pieces that will also provide support for the busbars used for the battery terminals as well as anchor points. The ends will also cover short metal pieces that will tie the two groups of four together. The ends were printed using some stronger PETG that I had laying around.
Which PETG are you using?
 
Finally getting around to my install. I'm leaving just enough room if I decide to expand my battery. The solar charge controller and dc/dc converter will go on the board I installed in the middle that is hinged to make working on this easier. Waiting on my wire to show in.
 

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I really like you small set up. As well as large one.

Just sharing here idea how to mount BMS directly to cells using 1/4 aluminum heat sink to dissipate heat and Velcro to mount to a cell and insulate it from cells. Will work for small BMS like on the picture.
 

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Finally getting around to my install. I'm leaving just enough room if I decide to expand my battery. The solar charge controller and dc/dc converter will go on the board I installed in the middle that is hinged to make working on this easier. Waiting on my wire to show in.
This is awesome. I have my Lishen cells on order and I have a brand new Prusa sitting in its box next to me waiting to be put together. I have a lot of things I want to print and this will be one of them.

Thanks for doing this. I know I will likely need to modify your design but you have given me a great head start.
 
Still waiting on the 4/0 wires and a few 90 degree lugs.
 

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Still waiting on the 4/0 wires and a few 90 degree lug
Couple questions.

1) are you compresing the end cells?
2) Not sure if you posted a picture but where/how is your BMS mounted?

I am probably going to reproduce your design with a couple tweaks. Building my Prusa printer as we speak.
 
Still waiting on the 4/0 wires and a few 90 degree lugs.

In my garage, a 90° lug is a 180° lug that was reoriented in the vise.
smash.gif
 
I thought about that but was a tad concerned I might stress them too much.
 
What are the recommended width and thickness bus bars for this box? I just ordered 4kg PLA to start on this.
 
There is a reason why you choose PLA? I would recommend PETG.
Is there a reason why you would recommend PETG over PLA for this application? Unless there is a compelling reason why PLA will fail in this application, I am more concerned with sourcing bus bars at this point as the filament order was merely a contextual comment.
 
It depends on your particular application. That's why I asked you the question. Personally I choose PETG because its more durable and can withstand moisture better. If I want to build something to last 10 years in dump conditions I would like to have something durable. PLA it bio plastic. It's very picky for environment you will keep it. And if you will have it in dry and dark condition it will probably work for you for year's as well. Peronnaly I don't print any "usable" parts from PLA, also it becomes very brittle with low ambient.
 
It depends on your particular application. That's why I asked you the question. Personally I choose PETG because its more durable and can withstand moisture better. If I want to build something to last 10 years in dump conditions I would like to have something durable. PLA it bio plastic. It's very picky for environment you will keep it. And if you will have it in dry and dark condition it will probably work for you for year's as well. Peronnaly I don't print any "usable" parts from PLA, also it becomes very brittle with low ambient.
From matterhackers.com: "PETG is hygroscopic, which means it will actively absorb moisture from the air. For this reason, PETG plastic should be stored in a cool, dry place, and dried if exposed to humid air for too long."

I am no expert (I have literally never printed anything myself) but I think you've got your information a little confused. From my cursory research (literally 2 youtube videos and a couple articles) PETG handles high temperatures (over boiling) better, but is bendy (I watched a video comparison test). PLA was stiffer but will snap after it reaches it's yield. I think in this case stiffness is good for the end caps because that's the only real force (compression from the allthread).

More than willing to change my conclusions based on new information, but again, I already ordered it, so I guess it will have to do. I DO appreciate the input regardless. At the end of the day I think there are a lot more variables than I am willing to fully account for in making this decision and either one will do well enough. If it shatters I can always have him print me another piece with a different material, but this van isn't going to be anywhere it stays frozen or the batteries aren't going to work either.

Did you print this housing? Any input on the bus bar size and/or sourcing?
 
Moisture content you referring to it's for filament not for final product. You can actually make water containers with PETG .
If you print end caps from PLA just don't try to open the caps in cold weather it will snap. Don't keep your. assembly on open sun it will twist.

No, I didn't print this particular housing.
Bas bar I made myself from 3/8 copper tubing just by flattening them in a vise, then solder plated them.
 
This is my build. All PETG used.
 

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I know one thing. I will be using PETG.

I also would never ever use copper tubing flattened. You can buy nice copper bar on Amazon.
 
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