Which printer are you using? PETG or PLA?Still printing a couple more pieces before I can do the full 8s build. Several printing issues as well as an entire printer failing put my filament cost over $150, but the result is looking promising.
Yeah...probably going with PETG myself. Little bit stronger.PLA. PETG costs 1/3 to 1/4 more. This is strong as an ox and stiff as a board with PLA if you set your slicer up right.
I'll not stop you. GodspeedYeah...probably going with PETG myself. Little bit stronger.
Are you building 12v or 24v? If 12v are you not planning to bring a bus bar out the other end?
24v. I'm still reprinting some more pieces for the 2nd set after some print failures (ran out of filament halfway through a batch, and the older printer nozzle clogged and completely effed that printer so had to build up a new printer). The new printer still has some kinks so the top caps aren't as nice as the bottoms but it seems like it's going to work. How did you bridge your bus bar over to the second bank? The supports have material in the way.Are you building 12v or 24v? If 12v are you not planning to bring a bus bar out the other end?
Is it wide enough to do it laying down? You might be able to print them in 2 interlocking pieces but then I would want 8 allthread clamping per sideMy problem is going to be the end pieces. My printer is not tall enough to do them so I will have to redesign those somehow.
Nope...can't do it laying down either. Plus you would have overhang the way the piece is designed for the portions that mate into the top and bottom piece. I actually have another design in mind for the end piece using aluminum plate that will actually work better for compression.Is it wide enough to do it laying down? You might be able to print them in 2 interlocking pieces but then I would want 8 allthread clamping per side
the end plates for compression on this design does not have a ton of compression resistance, but you don't need a ton. If I had more time I would put aluminum flatstock across the whole thing on the outsides.Nope...can't do it laying down either. Plus you would have overhang the way the piece is designed for the portions that mate into the top and bottom piece. I actually have another design in mind for the end piece using aluminum plate that will actually work better for compression.
I am not going to print any of the pieces using Heap's design. His design is a great but I have a few things I want to do differently. Kudos for him doing this. It really got me thinking how I want to do mine.
I used longer studs on those two spots then added just enough spacer under the cross bar to clear. I also have a different top cover for those two cells with room to work with that bar.24v. I'm still reprinting some more pieces for the 2nd set after some print failures (ran out of filament halfway through a batch, and the older printer nozzle clogged and completely effed that printer so had to build up a new printer). The new printer still has some kinks so the top caps aren't as nice as the bottoms but it seems like it's going to work. How did you bridge your bus bar over to the second bank? The supports have material in the way.
I am doing something similar. I haven't put it together yet but I think the regular caps will clear.I used longer studs on those two spots then added just enough spacer under the cross bar to clear. I also have a different top cover for those two cells with room to work with that bar.