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diy solar

280ah Battery Top and Bottom Support Design.

There are fillers that you can print if you want compression, or you can leave the fillers out if you would rather have air space. I used fillers.
 
Still printing a couple more pieces before I can do the full 8s build. Several printing issues as well as an entire printer failing put my filament cost over $150, but the result is looking promising.
 

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Still printing a couple more pieces before I can do the full 8s build. Several printing issues as well as an entire printer failing put my filament cost over $150, but the result is looking promising.
Which printer are you using? PETG or PLA?
 
PLA. PETG costs 1/3 to 1/4 more. This is strong as an ox and stiff as a board with PLA if you set your slicer up right.
 
I used pla+ and have no regrets. I used petg for the end pieces for extra strength there.
 
Are you building 12v or 24v? If 12v are you not planning to bring a bus bar out the other end?
24v. I'm still reprinting some more pieces for the 2nd set after some print failures (ran out of filament halfway through a batch, and the older printer nozzle clogged and completely effed that printer so had to build up a new printer). The new printer still has some kinks so the top caps aren't as nice as the bottoms but it seems like it's going to work. How did you bridge your bus bar over to the second bank? The supports have material in the way.
 
So I messed up my copper bar sourcing. Not surprising as I ordered components to assemble before the printing was really under way fully. I ordered pre cut bars from Midwest steel and aluminum and did not account for additional length to cross over to the next rank of cells. The required minimum length to cover both terminals completely is 110mm. 102mm covers both terminals on the adjacent cells, but 110mm length would cover both scenarios. Also some sort of conductive standoff and longer studs are going to be required to raise the terminal up high enough to clear to the next rank of cells. The material cannot be removed since the allthread passes directly through there. Finally, if I had to do it all again, 3/16" thickness was way overkill for almost any setup. I only have minimal time to dedicate to this aspect of my van build though so I am going to make it work and move on. I may share more on sourcing components for assembly with this box to help speed things up for future adopters. Once again thank you for the stl files heap64!!

IMG_20210609_213546.jpgIMG_20210609_213604.jpg
 
My problem is going to be the end pieces. My printer is not tall enough to do them so I will have to redesign those somehow.
 
My problem is going to be the end pieces. My printer is not tall enough to do them so I will have to redesign those somehow.
Is it wide enough to do it laying down? You might be able to print them in 2 interlocking pieces but then I would want 8 allthread clamping per side
 
Is it wide enough to do it laying down? You might be able to print them in 2 interlocking pieces but then I would want 8 allthread clamping per side
Nope...can't do it laying down either. Plus you would have overhang the way the piece is designed for the portions that mate into the top and bottom piece. I actually have another design in mind for the end piece using aluminum plate that will actually work better for compression.

I am not going to print any of the pieces using Heap's design. His design is a great but I have a few things I want to do differently. Kudos for him doing this. It really got me thinking how I want to do mine.
 
I can't really print end pieces either. Can't print them standing up, too high, and laying down I need support which then exceeds my print bed (Prusa MK3S).

I'll probably try manual support and see how it works out.
 
Nope...can't do it laying down either. Plus you would have overhang the way the piece is designed for the portions that mate into the top and bottom piece. I actually have another design in mind for the end piece using aluminum plate that will actually work better for compression.

I am not going to print any of the pieces using Heap's design. His design is a great but I have a few things I want to do differently. Kudos for him doing this. It really got me thinking how I want to do mine.
the end plates for compression on this design does not have a ton of compression resistance, but you don't need a ton. If I had more time I would put aluminum flatstock across the whole thing on the outsides.

You should link your build/design thread and post the files on thingverse as well.
 
24v. I'm still reprinting some more pieces for the 2nd set after some print failures (ran out of filament halfway through a batch, and the older printer nozzle clogged and completely effed that printer so had to build up a new printer). The new printer still has some kinks so the top caps aren't as nice as the bottoms but it seems like it's going to work. How did you bridge your bus bar over to the second bank? The supports have material in the way.
I used longer studs on those two spots then added just enough spacer under the cross bar to clear. I also have a different top cover for those two cells with room to work with that bar.
 
I am doing something similar. I haven
I used longer studs on those two spots then added just enough spacer under the cross bar to clear. I also have a different top cover for those two cells with room to work with that bar.
I am doing something similar. I haven't put it together yet but I think the regular caps will clear.
 
Finally got it put together. I waited for full assembly to start balancing charging and testing my cells because I didn't want them to expand uncompressed. Looks like I have a couple cells out of spec internal resistance. Going to try to get a partial refund and replace them later.IMG_20210621_191816.jpg
 
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