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3 battleborn batteries arrived today. Need help

Vancave

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Dec 15, 2019
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Hi. I'll try to keep this short and to the point. I just ordered and received three battleborn 100ah 12v batteries and I have a lot of questions for anybody willing to help me out.
I'm trying to prioritize my next steps carefully. I am about to order a Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 inverter charger from amazon. Also I think I will go ahead and pick up Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor which brings me to a question. This monitor comes with or without a temperature sensor. I'm not really sure what the sensor is for or if I need it so if nobody can tell me I'll just go ahead and buy the sensor and figure it out later.
Ok great, now I will have the batteries, battery monitor, and the inverter charger. My next step is figuring out what all I need to get to be able to plug all this stuff together. I assume I will need a 30 amp shore inlet plus a 10/3 wire from it to the inverter. I do not have a 30 amp hookup at my house (yet) so I will just pick up a 30amp to 15amp adaptor.
Ok, now I have power from my house to this inverter. So far I feel comfortable with everything but now I need to bridge the connection from my battleborn batteries to the inverter. I have been looking at various diagrams online and so far I found one I think might be best for me. The link is
https://www.explorist.life/600-amp-hour-875-watt-camper-van-solar-kit/
They recommend 2/0 AWG wire from the batteries to the bus bars, so my next question is would it be better to use 4/0 AWG? Is there a downside in oversizing your wire?
I have not came across a youtube video or article yet that explains how to wire the batteries up step by step. I assume I will first need to ground the negitive bus bar to my vans frame first and get the bus bars all set up and wired to the inverter before I actually connect my batteries to the bus bars. Next brings me to a very important question.
:::
Do I hook up all the positive wires before all the negative wires? I feel like I'm about to get bashed by this question and told to just have an electrician do it for me but I want to learn this stuff and do it on my own so I guess I'll just do some heavy research before wiring them up
:::
So that is pretty much where I am on this electrical build. I bought a diesel heater that I can't wait to set up, its getting pretty chilly here in Oklahoma and I'm about to get a two week vacation from work and I really want to order the parts I need before the end of this week and really dig into this stuff and accomplish something.

Thanks again.
Vancave.
 
Hi. I'll try to keep this short and to the point. I just ordered and received three battleborn 100ah 12v batteries and I have a lot of questions for anybody willing to help me out.
I'm trying to prioritize my next steps carefully. I am about to order a Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 inverter charger from amazon. Also I think I will go ahead and pick up Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor which brings me to a question. This monitor comes with or without a temperature sensor. I'm not really sure what the sensor is for or if I need it so if nobody can tell me I'll just go ahead and buy the sensor and figure it out later.
Ok great, now I will have the batteries, battery monitor, and the inverter charger. My next step is figuring out what all I need to get to be able to plug all this stuff together.

------ I assume I will need a 30 amp shore inlet plus a 10/3 wire from it to the inverter. I do not have a 30 amp hookup at my house (yet) so I will just pick up a 30amp to 15amp adaptor.-----

OK, I'm jumping in here.
NO ADAPTERS!

10 Ga. Wire is good for 30 Amps, no issue with that.

Since you didn't say specifically what you are Attempting to do,
Don't Assume we know what you are attempting, even if it was in another post...

*IF* this is going to be wired to a home breaker panel, DO NOT try to 'Test' it or hook it up before the INTERLOCK is in place.
With an interlock, and ONLY with an interlock,
Mains switched OFF, you *Can* plug a 30 Amp breaker into the panel, and partly power up *Some* of the outlets in the box.

This is where a 220 vac inverter really shines, it will power BOTH 'Hot' legs through a 220 vac breaker and everything in the home will work, it will be up to you to shut things down so they don't suck batteries dry.

Without an Interlock, you are a HUGE ACCIDENT waiting to happen, and I've seen professionals with decades of experience screw this up...

An Interlock, or power main switch (transfer switch) are the ONLY safe way to do this.

Ok, now I have power from my house to this inverter.

How exactly are you using 'House' power to power up an inverter?
Do you mean you are using 'Shore' or 'Grid' power and not the inverter? (Transfer/Ship to Shore switch?)

So far I feel comfortable with everything but now I need to bridge the connection from my battleborn batteries to the inverter. I have been looking at various diagrams online and so far I found one I think might be best for me. The link is
https://www.explorist.life/600-amp-hour-875-watt-camper-van-solar-kit/
They recommend 2/0 AWG wire from the batteries to the bus bars, so my next question is would it be better to use 4/0 AWG? Is there a downside in oversizing your wire?

And again, please don't make us search.
From the only diagram showing, the 6 BB batteries are wired in series.

This is still 12 volts, which for a run of the mill inverter under about 2,000 Watts is OK.

How you size the wire/cable for any electrical LOAD (inverter in this case) is the same old simple Watts/Volts/Amps math.
2,000 Watts ÷ 12 Volts = 166.66 Amps.
That's 0 (zero) Ga. Wire MINIMUM.

If that's a 3,000 Watt 'Surge' inverter,
3,000 Watts ÷ 12 Volts = 250 Amps.
That's 3/0 (000) Ga. Wire MINIMUM.

The largest COMMON cable available is 4/0 (0000) and it hurts NOTHING to build the battery to inverter cables out of 4/0.
If your system was designed properly, this *Should* be as short as possible.
These cable Terminals *Should* be as heavy as you can find, hard crimped, electrical soldered.
These cables will be passing the most Amperage in the system, every effort should be made to keep electrical resistance OUT of these cables.

I have not came across a youtube video or article yet that explains how to wire the batteries up step by step. I assume I will first need to ground the negitive bus bar to my vans frame first and get the bus bars all set up and wired to the inverter before I actually connect my batteries to the bus bars. Next brings me to a very important question.

NEVER use a bus bar in between batteries and inverter. Period.
You can run a smaller cable to a buss bar from either the battery terminal or inverter ends,
Bit NEVER break the primary feed cables from batteries to inverter.

When I build harnesses,
I use over sized terminal sockets and crimp/solder more than one wire/cable into the terminal.
Example, the charge controller cables 4 Ga. Cables do just as an efficient job crimped in with the inverter 4/0 cables.
This prevents Stacking cables, stacks are ALWAYS 'Bad', but sometimes necessary.
Resistance, Impedance, Loose terminals, corrosion, etc.



:::
Do I hook up all the positive wires before all the negative wires? I feel like I'm about to get bashed by this question and told to just have an electrician do it for me but I want to learn this stuff and do it on my own so I guess I'll just do some heavy research before wiring them up

Hook up positive first, turn the circuit breaker at the batteries OFF,
Then hook up negative cables.

:::
So that is pretty much where I am on this electrical build. I bought a diesel heater that I can't wait to set up, its getting pretty chilly here in Oklahoma and I'm about to get a two week vacation from work and I really want to order the parts I need before the end of this week and really dig into this stuff and accomplish something.

Thanks again.
Vancave.

Most people LOVE the little stand alone fuel heaters,
I have one in my big truck, and one in my camp/work trailer.
 
Something I did for someone else, but you might get the idea,
See where cables meet off the battery to inverter mains?
Cables crimped/soldered into same socket, reduces resistance, stacking, etc.

Santa2.jpg

Components can change, they have stud terminals,
The harness stays put, so make that harness with extra care...

If you notice the 'U' turn in the negative cable,
Wiring this way forces batteries to charge more evenly,
Positive 'Take Off' or 'Tap' on one end of the Parallel wired string,
Negative 'Take Off' or 'Tap' on the other end of the Parallel wired string.
 
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