I agree with not using that circuit breaker on the input side of the solar charge controller. A DIN rail mounted breaker rated for 250v DC and an amperage closer to the actual is appropriate.
i checked out this fuse:I think you are using a LiFePO4 battery (which I think can deliver 10,000 to 20,000A into a short), so I don't think this breaker is good connected directly to the battery. If there is suitably rated over-current protection (e.g. a class T fuse) on the battery and this breaker is downstream, then maybe OK.
These breakers say 150VDC, non-polarized, 10,000A interrupting.
Note they are panel mount (two screws from the front) with studs on back for ring terminals.
i got the class t fuse! I was able to find the blue sea one. I am all set with that.These breakers say 150VDC, non-polarized, 10,000A interrupting.
Note they are panel mount (two screws from the front) with studs on back for ring terminals.
there is a 50a breaker for pv before the charge controller. After the charge controller i should have a 50a fuse, then another 50a breaker before connecting to the battery. Is that correct?$43, great price for class T fuse with holder! 150A looks like good size for 2000W 24V inverter.
Those should work.
The 50A breaker for PV just serves as a disconnect because current will never be that high.
Ground bar - depends on what you are grounding. Breaker enclosure says grounding lugs sold separately. That might connect one ground wire from panel frames and one back to system.
In schematic, you have four batteries 2s2p. Inverter wired to one pair, then other pair paralleled.
Instead, connect inverter diagonally, to negative of one series pair and positive of other series pair. That makes it balanced so current supplied equally.
Connect charge controller diagonally as well, with breaker connecting after the fuse not directly to battery. (Fuse has better short circuit interrupt rating than breaker)
Does inverter have an on/off switch?
Some people like to have a precharge resistor to there isn't a high current into capacitors when first connected. I don't know when that matters and when it doesn't. Some use a rotary 2-position battery switch, first position connects resistor, second makes full connection.
do you recomend those square d panels? I was looking at them and it looks like a really good deal. read that their reputation is bottom of the line among electricians and knon for burn outs. Other than that i was interested in their panel.ground bars usually use multiple screws or dimples to hold them straight, but you could probably drill a hole and use a self-tapping screw. The grounding bars I've used (in Square-D breaker panels) came with screws.
Now that I look for it, I cant find it. Regarding the square d comment. It was just an amazon reviewer. Nothing more than that.I use all Square-D QO panels. The 125A and larger have copper bus (100A and smaller are aluminum.)
The other Square-D model, "Homeline" have aluminum bus and several other brands of breakers will fit.
Apparently there have been other brands made to fit QO as well. Square D objected, saying they weren't part of the tested system, and have been known to fail.
Have any links to objections people have with Square D products?
Now that I look for it, I cant find it. Regarding the square d comment. It was just an amazon reviewer. Nothing more than that.
I want to confirm the inside fuses please. I drew the inside control center. Please note the solar panels along with y connections and inline fusing are not included in the drawing but are all there.
View attachment 41611
I have 2 50a breakers mnedc50 enclosed in the quad enclosure. 1 breaker is before the charge controller (for pv shut off), 1 is after charge controller and before batteries. Then after batteries and before inverter is one 150a class t fuse and holder.
please verify this is correct as to what you meant. If not, would you be able to provide a drawing that is accurate as to what you mean? Im more of a visual learner so that would be helpful.
if my drawing is accurate, please let me know. Ill be good to go after that! Thanks!
Is this what you mean?The charge controller is connected to 24V, from positive to negative of four, 12V batteries connected 2s2p.
The inverter is connected from 12V midpoint to 12V midpoint, so gets zero volts.
Once you have moved inverter and 150A fuse to the 24V positive/negative connections of battery, I suggest moving the wire that connects 50A breaker, presently connected directly to battery positive, and connect it to 150A fuse instead. If there is a > 50A overload, breaker trips. If there is a dead short of 20,000A, the fuse blows (in case breaker just sits there burning.)
Is this what you mean?
Is either of these correct? Picture 1 or picture 2?Not quite.
Inverter now sees 24V, but doesn't go through the fuse.
Just move inverter negative to negative of the bottom battery (will be 3 wires at that connection), and move inverter positive to 150A fuse (where charge controller "batt" terminal connects).
Also, negative wire doesn't go to 150A fuse (just bypasses it), and I think the 50A breakers are single pole so negative wires also don't go to those (just bypass them)
I think.I understand what you mean. Im waiting for the fuse to arrive so I can work it out.Not quite.
Starting with picture 2, move the inverter positive wire from direct to battery positive (where it is now) to other side of 150A fuse.
That way, 150A fuse protects wire connecting inverter. 150A fuse also protects wire going to 50A breaker and charge controller.
I think.I understand what you mean. Im waiting for the fuse to arrive so I can work it out.
My batteries had stated they need to be charged fully individually and then placed in parallel 24 hours, then configured as needed. I have a lithium battery charger but would have to use my generator for the charge...which I can do. Its a 20amp charger and I think that will take a long time. The batteries say 300-600watts per battery will take 4-5hours to fully charge.
I set up 3 panels in parallel, hooked the battery up to charge controller. The battery was reading at 10.8. I know thats really low but I dont think they are damaged until it reads 8 something. Anywho, it was getting dark and so I left the battery, charge controller there hooked together. Panels were ready to be hooked up but werent yet. It all spent the night out there. My husband went ahead and completed the hook up for me the next day. When I went and checked on it, it was not reading 10.8. It was blinking 0.1. It had a warning light blinking and I was really confused as to what happened. My husband doesnt remember what it said before he hooked up the panels. Im worried maybe the cold air during the night did damage to it. Will the charge controller being hooked up all night to it cause damage?
I want to disconnect the panels from it so I can view it again the way I was before and see if it still reads the 10.8 like it was. Can I just throw a blanket over the panels and then disconnect it? I know not to disconnect under load. There is no load. Will I be ok doing this? No circuit breaker switch is installed because this was a temporary set up to charge the batteries individually.