I have a bluesea 400A Class T fuse/holder. Just searching for the DC breaker the manual calls for. I have a Growatt 12kw 120A 250VDC AIO
THANK YOU! I have been searching for ABB but I will go investigate that. I really appreciate the tip.You can get that from NOARK. Wolfautomation.com can give you a quote on any of their offerings. I have the 250A version M2 which has a 20,000 AIC at 500VDC which is better than even class T fuse and is rated for 6,000 switching operations with no damage even under full load. The M3 goes up to 400A.
Can confirm, I have the Blue Sea classT fuse holder with South Bend fuse. They fit together well.
I know. Would not want anything under 60V
Just for reference my NOARK 250A M2 MCCB Lug version was $223 last year. They are pricey but believe they are one of the best/safest breakers you can get. Also note the "busbar" version is the one that allows you to use lugs on the end of your cables and bolt it down. The "lug" version of the breaker is one with the compression screw that you probably don't want. Other thing to to note is you have to think about how to mount it since only thing you can get for mounting from NOARK is a din rail plate. I used a heavy duty din rail and simply used the enclosed long screws that came with it and fastened it to din rail with nuts.I requested a quote for 300A and I will come back and let everyone know what they go for currently. Appreciate all your help!
$215.63 in the states. What would really be great is if they could get them UL approved.The Noark 250Amp 500V DC 2 Pole Moulded Case Circuit Breaker (MCCB) primarily used on battery banks, provides high current breaking capabilities for DC circuits. FEATURES 250A 500VDC Moulded Case Circuit Breaker MCCB (2 Pole) Non-Polarized - EX9MD2B TM DC250 2P The Ex9 Series - M offers: Frame...ntsecostore.com
"Breaking Capacity: 25kA"
Good enough for at least one string of 280 Ah LiFePO4 cells. Maybe more.
Would also work for a high-voltage battery.
You got it exactly. That is what looks to me like the root of this mess. The lug included with the device has no where near the current capacity of the fuse itself. I am constantly throwing out components of these kinds of devices and replacing them with components that fit the load. In this case that would be a substantially heavier copper lug rated substantially higher than the expected current load. Save the other one for low current sensors or something like that. I do this all the time with the crap we have to buy in order to make something work.Is that a nut under the ring terminal?
And about 10 awg terminal?