40v to a 30v charge controller - did I kill it?

[PrimalScream]

I have a campervan that had a scary diy setup in it when I got it.
I replaced the charge controller with a renogy DCC30-S which has a maximum PV of 30
I hooked it up yesterday afternoon so the sun was low, but I still didnt get a solar charging indicator on the controller. this morning I measured the current at the solar panel + and it was 41 volts - so I guess the van has a 40v panel.

my question - do folks think 40v at low amperage damage the controller overnight?

I already ordered some new panels that have the correct voltage. hoping I dont also need to replace the controller. the display lights are functioning properly for the battery indicator and type.

Thanks

 

[sunshine_eggo]

I have a campervan that had a scary diy setup in it when I got it.
I replaced the charge controller with a renogy DCC30-S which has a maximum PV of 30
I hooked it up yesterday afternoon so the sun was low, but I still didnt get a solar charging indicator on the controller. this morning I measured the current at the solar panel + and it was 41 volts - so I guess the van has a 40v panel.

my question - do folks think 40v at low amperage damage the controller overnight?

I already ordered some new panels that have the correct voltage. hoping I dont also need to replace the controller. the display lights are functioning properly for the battery indicator and type.

Thanks

In this case, it's voltage that kills, not the current. Zero current can be present, yet excessive voltage will pop circuits.

You won't know until you apply a suitable voltage to it and see if it works.

 

[Drizzt321]

I have a campervan that had a scary diy setup in it when I got it.
I replaced the charge controller with a renogy DCC30-S which has a maximum PV of 30
I hooked it up yesterday afternoon so the sun was low, but I still didnt get a solar charging indicator on the controller. this morning I measured the current at the solar panel + and it was 41 volts - so I guess the van has a 40v panel.

my question - do folks think 40v at low amperage damage the controller overnight?

I already ordered some new panels that have the correct voltage. hoping I dont also need to replace the controller. the display lights are functioning properly for the battery indicator and type.

Thanks

If there are multiple panels, it might be in series. You might just have to put them in parallel instead.

However, series can bring some advantages. First, you can (potentially) use small awg wiring for same power (watts). Potentially more important from my view, is for a 12v battery system, the voltage gets up above the minimum "start charge" voltage, which is typically battery voltage + 3v or so for the MPPT to start being able to push power into the battery. So it will start producing some (small) amount of power earlier, and keep pushing a bit in later.

However, that would require you to get a "24v" (aka ~45v tolerant, so probably 50-60v rated) charge controller.

For the cheapest possibly solution, check on the solar panels, are they connected one to another? Or are they connected in parallel to each other?

 

[Aussieguy]

I would have changed the controller not the panels
you probably loosing good wattage by going smaller volts

MPPT 100/30 or 100/ 50
configure panels for best voltage up to PV max (100)
If too much AMPS is produced....... the MPPT won't care it just dumps extra amps

If you trying to save $$$ by using it for both solar and alternator .... you loose performance in MPPT
because voltage is so low
Use it for alternator ... get dedicated solar MPPT that matches what panels you can put on the roof