48v Bus Build - EG4 6000xp Blueprint and supplies

[jackk360]

Hi everyone, I am new to the forum and looking for some help finalizing my blueprints and supplies list so I can set up my system in the next 2 weeks.

Currently I have:

• EG4 6000xp
• 2 SOK Lithium 48v Batteries
• 7 Sunpower 440w panels

I want to have a Shore power hook up (30 or 50 amp). Almost everything inside the bus will run on 120v besides 2 12v exhaust fans and Lighting. I'm struggling to find what components are necessary for wiring efficiently. I plan to wire panels in a parallel configuration with 3 in series and 4 in series. I will attach rough blueprint, solar panel layout, EG4 spec sheet below.

Current parts list:

• 100ft solar wire
• pv connectors
• solar panel entry gland
• pv dc breaker
• battery cables w/ lugs
• shore power hook up
• 8awg cables for shore power hook up
• 50 amp main panel w/ breaker
• conduit
• romex
• breakers
• THHN wire to connect inverter to panel

What else am I missing? Help is much appreciated! This is my first solar build

EG4 Specs

 

[FilterGuy]

I plan to wire panels in a parallel configuration with 3 in series and 4 in series.

3 panels in series may not produce a high enough voltage for the 6000XP. Could you provide a pointer to the panel spec sheets?

I found a

 

[adobopr]

How are you intending to wire the batteries together? And to the inverter? Depending on how you do it you might need a bus bar and some thicker wire, or some extra breakers.

 

[jackk360]

3 panels in series may not produce a high enough voltage for the 6000XP. Could you provide a pointer to the panel spec sheets?

I found a

Here is panel spec sheet:
Panel Specs

 

[jackk360]

How are you intending to wire the batteries together? And to the inverter? Depending on how you do it you might need a bus bar and some thicker wire, or some extra breakers.

Yes I was intending on wiring batteries together and then to the inverter

 

[FilterGuy]

Panel Spec:

Vmp = 43.4V
3 x 43.4V = 130.2V


6000XP PV Specs


On the surface, it appears the panel voltage is high enough. However, there is only 10.3V buffer to cover voltage drop due to Temperature Rise.
Allowable Temp rise from 25C = 10.3 V/ .136V/C = 75.7C
This means the temperature has to get 75.7C degrees *above* 25C (100.7C) before the voltage drops too low.
So, it looks like there is plenty of room for voltage drop due to temperature rise. (I was surprised by this)

 

[David in nh]

i love my 6000xp, but i can hear this thing from my living room and it is down in the basement . so do not plan on using it when you sleeping .
there sometimes no reason when fans kick on. at least seems that way

 

[jackk360]

Panel Spec:
View attachment 284066
Vmp = 43.4V
3 x 43.4V = 130.2V


6000XP PV Specs
View attachment 284067

On the surface, it appears the panel voltage is high enough. However, there is only 10.3V buffer to cover voltage drop due to Temperature Rise.
Allowable Temp rise from 25C = 10.3 V/ .136V/C = 75.7C
This means the temperature has to get 75.7C degrees *above* 25C (100.7C) before the voltage drops too low.
So, it looks like there is plenty of room for voltage drop due to temperature rise. (I was surprised by this)

Do you agree this would be the best way to wire it then or do you think there is a better way?

 

[FilterGuy]

Do you agree this would be the best way to wire it then or do you think there is a better way?

It depends on what you think the shading situation will be.

I would just put all 7 in series for a stationary system with no shading issues. However, on an RV it is hard to predict what the shading will be.

Two strings will be less susceptible to shading issues, but modern pannels have multiple bypass diodes so it is hard to say how much better 2 strings would be than 1 string.

Do you happen to know how many bypass diodes the panels have? (It is probably 3 diodes, but we are starting to see panels with more than that.

 

[skeeter_ca]

I would agree with wiring all seven panels in series. It would help the MPPT the wake up earlier with less sunlight. That is of course consodering the shading issue but i would think it doable.

skeeter

 

[skeeter_ca]

And to address the 240v issue....
The 6000xp requires 120v L1 and L2 input from the grid or generator equaling 240v. If plugged into a 50amp rv outlet you are actaully getting 120v and 50amps on two different legs but still sharing the load on the neutral. The 6000xp will bypass this to the rv electrical panel and charge your batteries. If using a 120v 30amp/20amp the 6000xp will only power one leg of the rv and the other leg of the panel will be disabled. To fix this on my design using the 6000xp i am using the chargverter for my 3000w genny/120v 30amp/20amp inputs to charge the batteries directly. The rv would run directly off the 6000xp and the batteries. If the demand exceeds the 120v input the batteries would make up for the extra amps needed. I guess you could call this a power assist. This is the only way i could find a workaround for only using 120v input. If anyone else can think of a better way to accomplish this, please chime in.

skeeter

 

[mmmmmdonuts]

And to address the 240v issue....
The 6000xp requires 120v L1 and L2 input from the grid or generator equaling 240v. If plugged into a 50amp rv outlet you are actaully getting 120v and 50amps on two different legs but still sharing the load on the neutral. The 6000xp will bypass this to the rv electrical panel and charge your batteries. If using a 120v 30amp/20amp the 6000xp will only power one leg of the rv and the other leg of the panel will be disabled. To fix this on my design using the 6000xp i am using the chargverter for my 3000w genny/120v 30amp/20amp inputs to charge the batteries directly. The rv would run directly off the 6000xp and the batteries. If the demand exceeds the 120v input the batteries would make up for the extra amps needed. I guess you could call this a power assist. This is the only way i could find a workaround for only using 120v input. If anyone else can think of a better way to accomplish this, please chime in.

skeeter

I was using the chargverter but it was incredibly loud charging the battery. I bought the victron autotransformer that takes a 120V and creates 240V split phase. Still has the low frequency transformer buzz but that's way more tolerable to me. I put this into the generator port of the 6000XP. This allows the 6000XP to also limit the current draw it pulls from the generator or shore power as well.

 

[justinm001]

And to address the 240v issue....
The 6000xp requires 120v L1 and L2 input from the grid or generator equaling 240v. If plugged into a 50amp rv outlet you are actaully getting 120v and 50amps on two different legs but still sharing the load on the neutral. The 6000xp will bypass this to the rv electrical panel and charge your batteries. If using a 120v 30amp/20amp the 6000xp will only power one leg of the rv and the other leg of the panel will be disabled. To fix this on my design using the 6000xp i am using the chargverter for my 3000w genny/120v 30amp/20amp inputs to charge the batteries directly. The rv would run directly off the 6000xp and the batteries. If the demand exceeds the 120v input the batteries would make up for the extra amps needed. I guess you could call this a power assist. This is the only way i could find a workaround for only using 120v input. If anyone else can think of a better way to accomplish this, please chime in.

skeeter

50a campground shore can be 120v on the same leg, normal split phase 240v or even 2 legs of 3 phase.

On 30a you're only getting 2880w max (80% of 30a). With 15% converter losses and 15% inverter losses you're only getting like 2000w. That's barely enough to run 1 AC. That 900w loss makes a huge impact with any decent power load.

You'd be better off splitting the lines with a transfer switch or something