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48V Inverter for Off grid

Midnite Charge Controller 150
Not what I meant:
What are the electrical devices you would like to be able to run, what current do they draw, on start-up and running steady, how much energy per day will these consume in normal operation. Does the device normally operate only during certain seasons, like A/C or does it run all year around, like a refrigerator for example.
Typically, best to start with a spreadsheet, energy audit.
list all the energy using devices you have, or would like to have.
For each one, does the device operate on DC or AC power, what voltage, what is the start up amperage, the running amperage and the typical 24-hr Watt.hrs of consumption required to operate it.
Then add up all the power consumption to get your first tally on total Watt.hrs per day consumption (typically kW.hrs actually). This site has several good templates for doing this type of audit, and many resources to assist with filling in appropriate values - ie when your not sure what total Watt.hrs a 10 cubic foot refrigerator should need, there are some typical values shown.

Once you know the target daily consumption for your devices, and likely peak power you will need during a day, you can then set to work looking at what sized inverter would be suitable. For example there is little point in having an inverter that is triple the size you need for your peak loads, that will cost more for no benefit, and may run higher idle consumption as well. Unless you plan on new loads in the short term that would justify the oversized inverter, it is often better to find a suitable sized unit a bit larger than your situation requires, not not excessively so.

From your location you can look up typical solar potential and based on your PV and shading (if any) you can check if your system can pull in the required energy on average to keep up with those daily loads and consuption you calculated in the energy audit. Finally you can review the battery storage and check if you will be likely to operate your system with your weather cloudy days winter conditions. often winter is the real problem here, unless you have very good Nov-Feb clear sunny days.
 
Since you had an inverter already - from the original post, you noted a 4024 - was this unit large enough to supply all your loads/needs?
"40" typically means 4kW, and the "24" would usually mean 24 volt system, although I think you said you wanted to go 48 volt on the new inverter, iirc.
If you were happy with 4kW maybe this is all you need for the inverter. It still leaves the questions about PV size and Battery storage size unanswered, but it's a start.
 
Call Samlex America. You will actually get to talk to a real person who knows the product. 800-561-5885
 
May I ask how you have mixed spec panels wired up?
Since you had an inverter already - from the original post, you noted a 4024 - was this unit large enough to supply all your loads/needs?
"40" typically means 4kW, and the "24" would usually mean 24 volt system, although I think you said you wanted to go 48 volt on the new inverter, iirc.
If you were happy with 4kW maybe this is all you need for the inverter. It still leaves the questions about PV size and Battery storage size unanswered, but it's a start.
Yes, on our property the existing 24V system had 4 12V batteries 2s2p and it was running fine with our current wattage usage (7 cubic ft refrigerator and freezer all day, tv only in the evenings, occasionally running a washer~1500 watts) , but since I’m replacing the inverter I want to take the opportunity to transition into a 48V, so I can get the 400 extra watts. Also, planning for later this year or next year to have additional household using a tv and internet modem ~1500 watts. I also would like to transition to lithium batteries, but I want to ride out the agm batteries I currently have ( so I wouldn’t want to get new agm batteries).
 
Yes, on our property the existing 24V system had 4 12V batteries 2s2p and it was running fine with our current wattage usage (7 cubic ft refrigerator and freezer all day, tv only in the evenings, occasionally running a washer~1500 watts) , but since I’m replacing the inverter I want to take the opportunity to transition into a 48V, so I can get the 400 extra watts. Also, planning for later this year or next year to have additional household using a tv and internet modem ~1500 watts. I also would like to transition to lithium batteries, but I want to ride out the agm batteries I currently have ( so I wouldn’t want to get new agm batteries).
Yes, I see.
You can rearrange the same AGM batteries all in series to get 48v, and as you say get the best use you can from them.
If your comfortable with the 4kW, or perhaps 5-6kW to allow for your future plans, the cost difference is pretty small generally from 4 to 6kW.
I am not sure what "get the 400 extra Watts" is from, (?) can you elaborate?
There are quite a few options for 4-6kW inverters, and generally higher cost units will have lower standby consuption, and lower cost inverters will have higher standby consumption. With a small PV array and small battery pack, low standby would be the way to go, if it fits the budget. That is what I would focus on if it were me in your position.
 
so I can get the 400 extra watts. Also, planning for later this year or next year to have additional household using a tv and internet modem ~1500 watts.
1500 "watts" seems like an awful lot for a tv and internet modem. Do you mean watt hours (Wh)?
That would make this thread make more sense in several areas.
 
1500 "watts" seems like an awful lot for a tv and internet modem. Do you mean watt hours (Wh)?
That would make this thread make more sense in several areas.
It’s just a rough estimate of an additional home usage. 1500 in the situation where all the appliances are running. Entertainment plus baseline necessities like refrigeratoration
 
Yes, I see.
You can rearrange the same AGM batteries all in series to get 48v, and as you say get the best use you can from them.
If your comfortable with the 4kW, or perhaps 5-6kW to allow for your future plans, the cost difference is pretty small generally from 4 to 6kW.
I am not sure what "get the 400 extra Watts" is from, (?) can you elaborate?
There are quite a few options for 4-6kW inverters, and generally higher cost units will have lower standby consuption, and lower cost inverters will have higher standby consumption. With a small PV array and small battery pack, low standby would be the way to go, if it fits the budget. That is what I would focus on if it were me in your position.
~400 watts from running less current in 48V compared to 24V
 
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Get the Outback Radian 8048

It's way better than any Samlex (not even in the same park) and somewhat better than the Schneider..

65 to 70 watts of PV energy is much to little to take care of a 200ah lead acid battery. They will never get the battery charged. For lead acid batteries, you need MORE solar array so you are assured of a full charge in 5 hours or less.

65-70 watts of PV isn't even enough to cover the idle current of most larger inverters. For a 200ah lead acid battery bank, you need at least 2000 watts of PV, and preferably 3000 or more.

What that 65-70 watts a typo? I sure hope it was.
I will second this with 10 years of experience running on outback 100% off-grid. If you want a bulletproof inverter made in the USA that will last, Outback it is, all these Chinese inverters are just OK but don't be surprised with something that overheats, or breaks when you really need it. My experience with Outback support has been amazing you call and talk to someone who has 20+ years of experience every time. Pay a little extra to get quality. CHeers.
 
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