My 1000w inverter is silent except some fan at compressor start-up running my home fridge.I could but I didn't want to sleep on a humming inverter. Actually, I can sleep through anything. My wife cannot.
This is mine as well. Dont have solar array yet for my 28 ft trailer. I have an 8'x8' section of roof at the back open for panels and can get another 3 up each side. I plan on 100 watt panels that are appx 2'x4' for a total of 16 x 100wView attachment 248130
Man I’ll be honest; that makes my head hurt.
This is mine as well. Dont have solar array yet for my 28 ft trailer. I have an 8'x8' section of roof at the back open for panels and can get another 3 up each side. I plan on 100 watt panels that are appx 2'x4' for a total of 16 x 100w
Is there a good reason to do all 16 in series or should I do 2 parallel strings?
Hello All,
I'm planning and designing a 48v system for a 31 foot motorhome install;
Victron Multiplus-II 48/3000
48v 100AH battery
Solar ground deployed - additional added to roof in phase2
I see nearly all 48v installs have a 48v to 12v converter to power the stock RV 12v systems. However at 48v there aren't any good options like the 24v non-isolated 70amp Victron module, so a 12v battery may be required anyways to operate slides/etc.
I'm considering just leaving the stock 120v > 12V DC charger in the motorhome with the 12v battery and omitting the 48v>12v converter for these reasons;
1. Few good 48v>12v converter options available to buy today
2. Eliminate needing to wire additional 48v component
3. Leave 120v breaker to charger 12v system as is - I don't like the "put tape warning leave off" solution especially if others may use the RV.
4. Simplifies system design in that 48v is only tied to 120v.
5. Allows flexibility to turn off 48v system and remove battery for some trips, reducing 80lbs of battery weight and reclaiming that storage space. All electrical systems would still function in stock manner without 48v system running.
The primary downside I thought of was the loss of efficiency going from 48v>120V>12v with two steps vs a direct 48V>12V. But even that doesn't seem like an actual loss when I calculated it
Multiplus II Efficiency 48v>120v is 95%
Victron Charger 120v>12v is 94%
Combined is .95*.94= 89%
Victron Orion is 48v>12v = 87% (2% worse)
I don't think the 12v load will be significant so the efficiency probably doesn't matter.
What do people think about omitting a 48v>12v converter?
I've been planning to do the same thing. The one thing slightly complicating it is that our (new to us) Class A has a Xantrex 2000w inverter charger that is failing. So far the charger portion of it works fine but the inverter is toast. I'm trying to figure out if I should bypass it entirely and use a dedicated 12v charger or maybe replacing it with smaller 12v multiplus so I have something that works OK in the meantime ultil everything else is built out..
I went ahead and ordered a 12/2000 MPII last night. Should be pretty much a drop in replacement. Once the rest of the system is built out the 2k will spend most of its life in pass through, but it will also give me some redundancy. I'm leaving the factory 12v "House" system in place for high current loads like the slides and then the new 48v system will be wired to function like shore power.If part of it has failed, maybe the rest of it isn't far behind. Might be safer to decommission it.
If you already have a smartshunt you can use the aux voltage to monitor it. I do this with my chassis batteries so I can record if my charger is working or not.I debated what to do with the 12V for quite some time in my move to 48V. Pros and Cons to everything.
I had 3 Victron IP22 Blue Smart 12V 30 Amp 115V chargers that I used to supplement my 100Amp charger in my 12V setup. When I switched to the 48V setup, I thought I'd just run all 3 in power supply mode to supply up to 90A for the 12V side. But I have a hydraulic slide and leveling system that draws well over that in peak demands and my generator starts off the house 12V as well. Rather than re-route the power to the chassis for those systems, I decided I would add a small 12V Weize LiFePO4 Starter Battery to the system to handle the peak loads and starting. https://www.amazon.com/WEIZE-Purpose-Performance-Automotive-Trolling/dp/B0CJ36GWXQ/
Currently I run just one of the 30A Victron Blue Smarts as a charger and everything seems to be working perfectly. I was hoping for some more efficient 48V-12V Orion products in the future similar to the XS line they released recently before I ditch the 120V-->12V charger(s). I'll probably add another shunt to the 12V side as I don't really know if 1 30Amp charger is enough to keep the battery topped off during the day or if it is draining and recharging at night. Good luck!
Thank you, I was monitoring it and didn't think it had history. Sure enough one 30Amp charger wasn't enough. Going to try 2!If you already have a smartshunt you can use the aux voltage to monitor it. I do this with my chassis batteries so I can record if my charger is working or not.
I totally forgot about including my slides in my energy audits until I read your post!. I have 2 electric and 2 hydraulic slides. Thank you for reminding me lolI debated what to do with the 12V for quite some time in my move to 48V. Pros and Cons to everything.
I had 3 Victron IP22 Blue Smart 12V 30 Amp 115V chargers that I used to supplement my 100Amp charger in my 12V setup. When I switched to the 48V setup, I thought I'd just run all 3 in power supply mode to supply up to 90A for the 12V side. But I have a hydraulic slide and leveling system that draws well over that in peak demands and my generator starts off the house 12V as well. Rather than re-route the power to the chassis for those systems, I decided I would add a small 12V Weize LiFePO4 Starter Battery to the system to handle the peak loads and starting. https://www.amazon.com/WEIZE-Purpose-Performance-Automotive-Trolling/dp/B0CJ36GWXQ/
Currently I run just one of the 30A Victron Blue Smarts as a charger and everything seems to be working perfectly. I was hoping for some more efficient 48V-12V Orion products in the future similar to the XS line they released recently before I ditch the 120V-->12V charger(s). I'll probably add another shunt to the 12V side as I don't really know if 1 30Amp charger is enough to keep the battery topped off during the day or if it is draining and recharging at night. Good luck!
If you have an aqua hot, run the diesel burner and inside registers too. They use more energy than I thought. I forgot to include them when I was looking at the 12v side.I totally forgot about including my slides in my energy audits until I read your post!. I have 2 electric and 2 hydraulic slides. Thank you for reminding me lol