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diy solar

50amp 5th wheel

mjraid24

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Jul 24, 2022
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I have a :

Sigineer Power 4000W 12V Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger,12V DC to AC 120 240V Split Phase 240VAC Split Phase
4 100w Renogy Panels
40am Mpt Solar charger
4 100amp lithium batteries

Now my thought process is that i can wire the shore power line directly through the invertor (because of the pass through capability)
then wire.

This will in turn allow the whole RV to be powered through the invertor when boon-docking, is this correct?

I understand i cant use the ACs with out a soft start and we have no intention of ever using a washer dryer while boon-docking, its main purpose is the simplicity to use all the 120v plugs at our convenience. Keep the fridge running, and once expansion downn th road of panels and batteries use the bedroom AC only when necessary
 
I have a :

Sigineer Power 4000W 12V Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger,12V DC to AC 120 240V Split Phase 240VAC Split Phase
4 100w Renogy Panels
40am Mpt Solar charger
4 100amp lithium batteries

Now my thought process is that i can wire the shore power line directly through the invertor (because of the pass through capability)
then wire.

This will in turn allow the whole RV to be powered through the invertor when boon-docking, is this correct?

Yes; however, you will lose the ability to run the RV off 30A power and plugging in to 30A power might be an "event." It will pass through the AC to the loads, and it will charge your battery with the surplus. Please be aware that most of that type of inverter have a very odd absorption time calculation, and it might want to keep your LFP in absorption for as much as 10 hours.

I understand i cant use the ACs with out a soft start and we have no intention of ever using a washer dryer while boon-docking,

If this is one of those beastly horizontal bricks that looks like the typical AIMS inverter and weighs something like 60 lbs, yeah, you can. If it's that model, it has a 12kW surge, and it means it.

its main purpose is the simplicity to use all the 120v plugs at our convenience. Keep the fridge running,

Propane/AC/DC fridge or compressor type?

and once expansion downn th road of panels and batteries use the bedroom AC only when necessary

The biggest downside is that beast is hungry. It's going to consume about 31% of your battery capacity just by being on even if you power no loads.
 
Yes; however, you will lose the ability to run the RV off 30A power and plugging in to 30A power might be an "event." It will pass through the AC to the loads, and it will charge your battery with the surplus. Please be aware that most of that type of inverter have a very odd absorption time calculation, and it might want to keep your LFP in absorption for as much as 10 hours.



If this is one of those beastly horizontal bricks that looks like the typical AIMS inverter and weighs something like 60 lbs, yeah, you can. If it's that model, it has a 12kW surge, and it means it.



Propane/AC/DC fridge or compressor type?



The biggest downside is that beast is hungry. It's going to consume about 31% of your battery capacity just by being on even if you power no loads.
Yes; however, you will lose the ability to run the RV off 30A power and plugging in to 30A power might be an "event." It will pass through the AC to the loads, and it will charge your battery with the surplus. Please be aware that most of that type of inverter have a very odd absorption time calculation, and it might want to keep your LFP in absorption for as much as 10 hours.



If this is one of those beastly horizontal bricks that looks like the typical AIMS inverter and weighs something like 60 lbs, yeah, you can. If it's that model, it has a 12kW surge, and it means it.



Propane/AC/DC fridge or compressor type?



The biggest downside is that beast is hungry. It's going to consume about 31% of your battery capacity just by being on even if you power no loads.
 
its an electric fridge, but i don't understand why i would lose the ability to step down to 30 amps?
 
its an electric fridge, but i don't understand why i would lose the ability to step down to 30 amps?

Because the 120/240VAC input requires 120/240VAC input. 30A services is only 120V. A 30A to 50A adapter shorts L1 and L2, and the inverter will not recognize the input or pass it through.

You'd need a second input that bypasses the inverter completely or a more elaborate solution.
 
Because the 120/240VAC input requires 120/240VAC input. 30A services is only 120V. A 30A to 50A adapter shorts L1 and L2, and the inverter will not recognize the input or pass it through.

You'd need a second input that bypasses the inverter completely or a more elaborate solution.
Don't some 30amp to 50amp dogbones just supply one leg?
I wonder if that would trigger the bypass relay.
I somehow doubt the charger would work though.
 
Don't some 30amp to 50amp dogbones just supply one leg?
I wonder if that would trigger the bypass relay.
I somehow doubt the charger would work though.

Not if the customer wants to be able to use all RV items. If they don't short L1 and L2, half the AC panel isn't powered. I've never personally seen one that doesn't short L1 and L2.
 
Not if the customer wants to be able to use all RV items. If they don't short L1 and L2, half the AC panel isn't powered. I've never personally seen one that doesn't short L1 and L2.
From most of the 50A distribution panel layouts I've seen the second leg is nice to haves like a second air conditioner, etc.
 
my other plan was, to move all breakers that i would want to have the option to run while boon-docking to one L1 and move the other breakers to L2, then wire the invertor directly to L!.

would this technically work

i should then have power supplied to that leg
 
I just realized you only have 400W solar.

66W idle consumption of that inverter = 66W * 24h = 1564Wh/day

400W solar in perfect conditions (perfect tilt, orientation and conditions - NOT flat on an RV roof) is only going to produce about 2kWh/day. You'll be lucky to actually produce the idle consumption of the inverter let alone actually powering any loads. In other words, all your solar is being eaten by the inverter simply being on. Your boondocking duration is limited by your battery capacity and loads. You can get a little extra boondocking time if you're willing to shut the inverter off at night or when not in use.
 
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