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+5v mppt enable and VOC

Short_Shot

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I have a victron mppt scc. As many know they need +5v above battery voltage to enable.

Does the open circuit voltage come in to play here when the scc is checking for this +5v each morning, or is it the nominal connected voltage?
 
+5v would be a minimum mpp voltage for the controller to initiate charging which would be lower than your open circuit voltage.
I know that. That's not what I asked lol

If the mppt shuts down then it should effectively be much closer to an open circuit as it's not pulling any power out of it and is just monitoring the panel voltage. Would essentially be the same condition as wiring it right to a multimeter, which would allow voc. But that's where my question comes in. Is that the case or not?

Because 17.4v would be insufficient to enable the mppt output relative to a 13v lithium battery, but people don't seem to have issue with "12 volt" panels and lithium.

It's seems I'll have to just get time to go measure it and see what it's behavior actually is.
 
I was curious recently about this and read a bit on the Victon forum. My takeaway from the anedotal discussions is the controller will use voltage up to Voc to get the MPPT party started.

Seems to me the only time +5v would be a practical issue is at dusk/dawn/eclipses (when vanishingly little power is available anyhow).


I'll have to just get time to go measure it and see what it's behavior actually is.


Please let us know what you find.
 
MPPT algorythms vary on different controllers but many use no load Voc to set limits for Vmp search range and decide to abandon Vmp search and go into PWM mode of operation. The 5v above battery requirement might be limit for MPPT mode and triggers PWM mode of operation.
 
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Because 17.4v would be insufficient to enable the mppt output relative to a 13v lithium battery, but people don't seem to have issue with "12 volt" panels and lithium.
That's because a 12V panel does NOT output 12V. Your typical 100W 12V panel's output is likely to be ~18.0V, with an Voc of ~22V. Cheapo Harbor Freight panels might be ~14.4V, just barely adequate for a PMW charger.

Your Victron has a voltage limit of 100V? Depending on your winter weather, you could wire three panels in series for ~54V, and maybe four if your winter lows are not dramaticly lower than freezing.
 
That's because a 12V panel does NOT output 12V. Your typical 100W 12V panel's output is likely to be ~18.0V, with an Voc of ~22V. Cheapo Harbor Freight panels might be ~14.4V, just barely adequate for a PMW charger.
Yes. That would be why I mentioned voc.
That doesn't answer the question lol.

My panels are 20+ volts.

Not sure where you got that I have a 100v victron though.
 
Not sure where you got that I have a 100v victron though.
That was a question. What is the max voltage of your Victron?

The sole reason for focusing attention on the Voc is whether or not your wiring configuration exceeds the maximum of your unit.

In terms of making power, the Voc means nothing.

Because you are not providing any details as to how your system is wired, you make us guess as to what you are trying to accomplish.

Do you have more than 1 panel? Do you have multiple panels wired in parallel?
 
All of that is irrelevant. The only thing I need to know is if VOC is what counts for the +5v to enable the scc.

I'm not trying to make power. I'm curious to know the details of that specific function.
 
The sole reason for focusing attention on the Voc is whether or not your wiring configuration exceeds the maximum of your unit.

"There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamt of in your philosophy".

This thread is about how Victron finds Vbatt+5v to start MPPT running. Voc is (or can be) a factor in that operation.
 
Bump. I have a similar (or same???) question as Short Shot, and maybe I need the answer to be more blunt ?. I have a single 160w panel on roof of van. Vmmp is ~18.4, and Voc is 22.7. I just bought a 100ah battleborn to replace a 105ah AGM. My “older” Morningstar Prostar PWM does not have a Li profile (only Gel, Sealed, and flooded). Battleborn says Morningstar will work, but I’m thinking about ”upgrading” to victron smart MPPT 100/20, to get a Li profile, plus to get at least the minimal voltage/amperage status/logging/history info it provides. The concern (or maybe it’s an “imagined“ concern) is, will the victron kick in early morning, or in filtered (forest) light, or will I need to be in full sun to kickstart the charge on the LiFePO battery? @RCinFL insinuated some MPPT controllers might have a PWM mode that would kick in, even if the MPPT mode didn’t; would this apply to the Victron? If not, whose MPPT’s have the “backup” PWM mode? 160w definitely isn’t overkill for my needs (fridge, fan, lights, maybe even heater blower…no inverter, though that would be nice), but adding solar capacity runs into “real estate” limitations on the roof. Ideally I would like to be able to stay out in the woods for a couple days/nights with only minimal charging, and not worry about the batteries being spent before the second day.

***If the 5v plus rule for MPPT is based on Voc, am I correct that I should not have any concerns? If based on Vmp, it sounds pretty iffy, unless there is the PWM fallback mode.***

OKAY, that’s enough…or maybe TMI for my main question, I think, …but here’s the rest of the story…for anyone wanting to go down the same rabbit hole I’m stuck in, and provide addnl advice

I have a 2nd string of batteries (nominally 186ah, AGM…not true deep cycle, more “UPS” type batteries…they were free, and are high quality, but are now 5+yrs old, so don’t know SOH, but they fit in a space under the van…a space many 100ah batteries won’t, or certainly not 2 of them. I can split the loads somewhat between the 2 strings with switches. My usual mode of operation was to use the 105ah battery during the evening, but switch the fridge load over to the 186ah string overnight; in addition to this, I had to be a bit tactical during the day while charging. And I spent too much time trying to time the charging such that both strings were as full as possible before sunset. The 186 usually made it thru the night running fridge & fan without drama, but the 105 would not, especially once the days got shorter…dropping below 11.9v under fridge load (which cycles…maybe 4.5a max, running 25-35% of the time), and whatever else I ran (fan, lights…both very minimal loads); battery would end up at maybe 12.1v resting at dawn. The Morningstar began flagging it (yellow light meaning 1/2 empty, and even red, meaning low), except in the best of circumstances. I’ve checked for phantom drains, and haven’t found any, though maybe they are just more illusive. Last piece of info: I also have a CTEK d250s (older, also no Li profile), which provides alternator charging while driving, and a claimed MPPT solar capability. But it is limited to 23v solar input, so a bit of an anomaly in the MPPT world; this is one additional reason I can’t just add a 2nd panel in series…that and the real estate issue. Nonetheless, the CTEK does help if I’m driving. in fact, if driving during the day, I can have CTEK charging one battery string from alternator, and the solar charge the other string thru Morningstar. On such days, or if driving into the late evening, I do not have battery issues, assuming I have everything switched appropriately, to direct the alternator to the greatest need, charging and loads.

Adding solar capacity is a real estate challenge, replacing the 186ah string will be an expensive challenge, with physical size and temperature control constraints, and replacing the CTEK another expensive proposition. But, if I win the lottery, it would be great to have some sort of 150-200ah string of LiFePO in place of the current 186ah AGM string (hence still 2 strings: 100 + 150+ ah, 2 controllers…and maybe more solar, with a higher voltage if advantageous...in case the answer to the original question is that the Victron will need full sun to do any good whatsoever. Regarding roof space, I could possibly add a small 55w flex panel, which could do some good given 2 controllers, 2 battery strings, but not useful to bump voltage in series, nor really run in true parallel.
 
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***If the 5v plus rule for MPPT is based on Voc, am I correct that I should not have any concerns?

I think it is a non-issue, as I haven't heard of real-world complaints about Vic chargers refusing to start up.

I suppose one could intentionally cause the issue (for science!) by running relatively low voltage panels (thin film) with relatively high resting voltage banks (like 4S lipo).

...the Victron will need full sun to do any good whatsoever.

This might have been an offhand comment, but just in case: voltage is quite stable when insolation >=20%. It has to be quite dark (like heavy rain clouds) before panel voltage collapses. So while current will be reduced Vpanel under non-full sun will be sufficient to trigger the Vic's charging routine.

Anecdote: I am under dark overcast right now (could rain any minute) and my panel voltage is normal on both 12v and 20v panels.
 
Thanks for reply. It just seemed most (or all) posts I‘d seen had bigger or more panels, meaning higher voltage, so no issue for them.
 
I haven't had a chance to test mine but I can say that since switching to lithium I have had much less charging. I still suspect the battery voltage is so much higher that the panels struggle to reach bat +5v and voc isn't the answer.

My panels only reach some 17.x volts and the battery is about 13.8v or so normally.

Unfortunately though it's the dead of winter and I haven't had any time to go test it out to confirm.

There's lots of "probably maybe I haven't seen it" but it appears to still be a concern for me. The solution of course is just stick my panels in series but then I can't just plug in my suitcase panel in parallel.
 
I haven't had a chance to test mine but I can say that since switching to lithium I have had much less charging.

What does much less charging mean in this context? The charger is not starting MPPT (per thread topic) and the Li is chronically undercharged?

One would expect somewhat less solar harvest for charging with Li (maybe -10% to =-15%) since Li doesn't have a long-duration, low-efficiency Absorption stage in the lead battery sense.


The solution of course is just stick my panels in series but then I can't just plug in my suitcase panel in parallel.

A 2nd controller for the suitcase (even a very PWM controller) might be worth considering. Theoretical benefits:
  1. allow series arrangement for the main array
  2. keep from confusing the MPPT with multiple local Vmp from paralleled disparate panels
  3. increased shade tolerance

Configurable single-stage PWM (like the blue ones with usb outlets) are ~$15; cheap enough for a test. :)
 
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