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diy solar

$72 ANT BMS: Current Report by BMS is only half of the actual current

So this just happened...

If you recall a couple of months ago, the whole BYD capacity tests started happening. To everyone's surprise, the BYD's turned out to have much less than what was sold.

My 4.0 to 4.5 kWh that I bought only have 1.75 kWh usable. So I did the "neighborly" thing and contacted the guys I bought the batteries from to replace the packs. My BMS's shows 3 packs are basically "Kaput".

I contacted them many times, giving them ample opportunity to acknowledge or even reply to my concerns about the duds that I have. After 3 weeks of no response, I did the next level.

I filed a chargeback against them. Not a complete 100% refund, but about a 2/3rd refund.

I have 14 kWh usable of the 32kWh to 36 kWh I bought. I figured that was a fair amount to chargeback.

4 weeks later I get a reply from my CC company that says basically the charge is a good charge and provide proof that I contacted the sellers. I did provide the proof.

And now 2 weeks later I get a letter from the CC company that they are taking 100% of the chargeback from the seller.
Code:
We are working with the merchant or merchant's bank to obtain a permanent
credit for this charge.  If the merchant or merchant's bank will not accept
this charge, we will notify you of the reason.

Thank you for your cooperation in this matter.
Do y'all that are following this thread think I should post this info into the other threads that have way more folks following?
 
sad, that these were sold at an untested rate, instead of 4k + showing around 1/2 as what was claimed. my first alarm was some suppliers selling these byd with low amp bms with it.. Everyone was buying 200a daly for their DIY projects. I even think 80a was overkill.

Sometimes seeing someone boasting these on youtube at less than $100 per kw sent everyone wanting the byd.. in the business world this could lead to a class action. by consumers like you and I. maybe safer if they put a claim at the beginning. for liability, when they also have sponsors paying them..
 
So this just happened...

If you recall a couple of months ago, the whole BYD capacity tests started happening. To everyone's surprise, the BYD's turned out to have much less than what was sold.

My 4.0 to 4.5 kWh that I bought only have 1.75 kWh usable. So I did the "neighborly" thing and contacted the guys I bought the batteries from to replace the packs. My BMS's shows 3 packs are basically "Kaput".

I contacted them many times, giving them ample opportunity to acknowledge or even reply to my concerns about the duds that I have. After 3 weeks of no response, I did the next level.

I filed a chargeback against them. Not a complete 100% refund, but about a 2/3rd refund.

I have 14 kWh usable of the 32kWh to 36 kWh I bought. I figured that was a fair amount to chargeback.

4 weeks later I get a reply from my CC company that says basically the charge is a good charge and provide proof that I contacted the sellers. I did provide the proof.

And now 2 weeks later I get a letter from the CC company that they are taking 100% of the chargeback from the seller.
Code:
We are working with the merchant or merchant's bank to obtain a permanent
credit for this charge.  If the merchant or merchant's bank will not accept
this charge, we will notify you of the reason.

Thank you for your cooperation in this matter.
Do y'all that are following this thread think I should post this info into the other threads that have way more folks following?
Finally got my replacement ant.bms decided to test each wire from the byd, had 2 not reading anything!!! the connection was clamped solder then riveted. poor-quality wire. or to me too thin. will retest the old ant.bms
 
So this just happened...

If you recall a couple of months ago, the whole BYD capacity tests started happening. To everyone's surprise, the BYD's turned out to have much less than what was sold.

My 4.0 to 4.5 kWh that I bought only have 1.75 kWh usable. So I did the "neighborly" thing and contacted the guys I bought the batteries from to replace the packs. My BMS's shows 3 packs are basically "Kaput".

I contacted them many times, giving them ample opportunity to acknowledge or even reply to my concerns about the duds that I have. After 3 weeks of no response, I did the next level.

I filed a chargeback against them. Not a complete 100% refund, but about a 2/3rd refund.

I have 14 kWh usable of the 32kWh to 36 kWh I bought. I figured that was a fair amount to chargeback.

4 weeks later I get a reply from my CC company that says basically the charge is a good charge and provide proof that I contacted the sellers. I did provide the proof.

And now 2 weeks later I get a letter from the CC company that they are taking 100% of the chargeback from the seller.
Code:
We are working with the merchant or merchant's bank to obtain a permanent
credit for this charge.  If the merchant or merchant's bank will not accept
this charge, we will notify you of the reason.

Thank you for your cooperation in this matter.
Do y'all that are following this thread think I should post this info into the other threads that have way more folks following?
Jason could you send me snap shots of your setup with byd battery. it would greatly help.

also I screwed up when doing a quick test with the ant.bms I did not hook up the blue battery cable. it showed all the cells reading except cell 1. I thought I fried something or did something wrong to the bms. both bms. In January I ordered 2 more..
now I have 4 working.

one problem I do get is temp 1 it show -11c, temp 2 + 20c that has been an issue since day one. even on the new bms totally stumped. all wiring is correct even tried all the temp sensors all the same reading
 
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Jason could you send me snap shots of your setup with byd battery. it would greatly help.

also I screwed up when doing a quick test with the ant.bms I did not hook up the blue battery cable. it showed all the cells reading except cell 1. I thought I fried something or did something wrong to the bms. both bms. In January I ordered 2 more..
now I have 4 working.

one problem I do get is temp 1 it show -11c, temp 2 + 20c that has been an issue since day one. even on the new bms totally stumped. all wiring is correct even tried all the temp sensors all the same reading
The wire for the temp sensor is backward.

 
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If you are going to have more than one ANT-BMS in your setups.

Do this 1st!

Change the Blue-Tooth MAC Address (3rd page down at least). Just anything else will work fine. As soon as you get the next BMS turned on, you will be able to connect to it. The button on the main screen that shows change mac, does nothing. Don't bother. Reconnect to the new blue-tooth to whatever new thing you find. Change the FE-LI button and then start modifying all the settings.

Some settings are very important for controlling cutoffs. Some settings are just for displaying amps and SOC and have no effect on the performance of the battery.

My present settings;

View attachment 6648View attachment 6647View attachment 6645View attachment 6644

Hey,

i have two bms but these have the same Mac address how can i change it, the only button i see is: chance macadd but it does nothing.

can someone walk me with this.
thx
 
I also have 2 ANT BMS and noticed the MAC address is the same. The only way I have been able to tell them apart is by the Running Time. I will try to change that param and make life easier.

I ended up turning on my BMS / CALB Battery array (16s) before setting up my PV and now one of my banks SOC is zero and won't charge. Any suggestions how to jump start that?
 

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I also have 2 ANT BMS and noticed the MAC address is the same. The only way I have been able to tell them apart is by the Running Time. I will try to change that param and make life easier.

I ended up turning on my BMS / CALB Battery array (16s) before setting up my PV and now one of my banks SOC is zero and won't charge. Any suggestions how to jump start that?
I've run into the same problem, I can not stand Chinese software, updates are none. for all the bugs.. it the last thing they invest in. stupid
 
A bit off topic, but just ordered the 400a version from link below. Charge current is listed as 50a max, but noticed in one of the screenshots that Jason included that it was set to much higher in settings. Seller is not responding, but assume it's more than 50 then?

24%OFF | Smart 7S ~ 20S ANT Lifepo4 li-ion Lipo LTO Battery Protection Board BMS 400A 300A 100A 80A Bluetooth APP 10S 13S 14S 16S Balance
I set mine to 60a and it works fine.
 
2amp Balancer installed.

20201015_160049.jpg

Pretty painless, just snip all the old connections and crimp on the new ones.

ONE
AT
A
TIME!
?
Screenshot_20201015-161550.jpg Screenshot_20201015-161418.jpg

and FML, if I set it to 2.0 amps, too much resistance, so down to 1.5 amp.
Keep in mind, I am using the tracing on the BYD battery and the small wires 22 or 24 awg. (24 awg is capable of 3 amps FYI.)
Screenshot_20201015-161434.jpg
And It won't let me rename the name of the device. Kind of a problem when I have 4.
 
2amp Balancer installed.

View attachment 25109

Pretty painless, just snip all the old connections and crimp on the new ones.

ONE
AT
A
TIME!
?
View attachment 25110 View attachment 25112

and FML, if I set it to 2.0 amps, too much resistance, so down to 1.5 amp.
Keep in mind, I am using the tracing on the BYD battery and the small wires 22 or 24 awg. (24 awg is capable of 3 amps FYI.)
View attachment 25111
And It won't let me rename the name of the device. Kind of a problem when I have 4.
I agree, I have 2 and it is a pain, when you go to set up which is which. problem with Chinese software is when they design it. they think it is perfect and move on. Bata = final addition. So a lot of equipment made in China lacks proper proven software. I think of all the military stuff they are making the software part is going to make the mighty Chinese army useless
 
2amp Balancer installed.

View attachment 25109

Pretty painless, just snip all the old connections and crimp on the new ones.

ONE
AT
A
TIME!
?
View attachment 25110 View attachment 25112

and FML, if I set it to 2.0 amps, too much resistance, so down to 1.5 amp.
Keep in mind, I am using the tracing on the BYD battery and the small wires 22 or 24 awg. (24 awg is capable of 3 amps FYI.)
View attachment 25111
And It won't let me rename the name of the device. Kind of a problem when I have 4.
What's the official max charge current of this BMS?
 
What's the official max charge current of this BMS?
Officially = "I don't know"

It won't let you balance if the Wire Resistance is too much.
I have to have one set as low as 1.0 amp or it simply won't balance.

After a week of use, it has made my packs far more usable.

I can lower my bottom end from 49.0V to 45V, which basically doubles my usable kWh.

Even at only 1.0 Amp of balancing current, my cells are staying very balanced, usually, no more than 0.020V difference, that is after a full 7 hours of discharge use cycle. Before once cell would dive bomb and trigger the low voltage shutoff at the inverter. Now that one dud cell keeps getting fed fresh e-.

This is a fix for old junked worn-out cells. No, it is not at all an efficient use of e-. New cells would practically last forever with today's knowledge about how to treat cells.

This is NOT a Battery Management System, aka BMS. It is a cell balancer and nothing else. The app is simple and straightforward.

After watching how it works a few hundred times this is my conclusion;
The balancer has capacitors onboard. The balancer measures which cells have the highest voltage and then charges the capacitors from the highest voltage cells. As soon as the capacitors are full, The balancer measures which cells have the lowest voltage and then discharges the capacitors into the lowest voltage cells. It does this until the user "set threshold" is met, I have mine set to 0.035V, which is the same as to what my Zero DSR motorcycle has from the maker, Zero Motorcycles.

The balancer is a very simple and elegant solution to keep the cells balanced.

It will make your battery pack less efficient overall.
It is far better to have 47.8V (all cells at 2.987) and still have everything ON and usable than it is to be at 49.5V and one cell at 2.1V and everything OFF.
 
If you are going to have more than one ANT-BMS in your setups.

Do this 1st!

Change the Blue-Tooth MAC Address (3rd page down at least). Just anything else will work fine. As soon as you get the next BMS turned on, you will be able to connect to it. The button on the main screen that shows change mac, does nothing. Don't bother. Reconnect to the new blue-tooth to whatever new thing you find. Change the FE-LI button and then start modifying all the settings.

Some settings are very important for controlling cutoffs. Some settings are just for displaying amps and SOC and have no effect on the performance of the battery.

My present settings;

View attachment 6648View attachment 6647View attachment 6645View attachment 6644


may you be more explicit? i'm trying to change address but dont know where to do it (the Change mac address switch to litium)
and how i can understand from apps if it's done ok.

thanks
 
ok, now i get your screenshot. my app hasn't the bluetooth adress parameter, what app do you have? mine seems not complete. may you put a link/drive download?
 
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ok, got the solution. downloaded the app from the "software delevoper" site instead on what seller sent me, and now i have changed mac address.
 
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