A medium small DIY system eg4-6000XP with battery and a grid ( pass thru ) for battery charging

[dieselxj]

For today i am looking for this box that will be connected to the main service disconnect. I don't know what this box is called. is it a subpanel? is it a new service panel? to me it is a distribution panel? From my idea, it is a very simple distribution box . with only 2 wanted circuits. 1 x 200a breaker, and 1x 50 amp breaker.

so far i am having trouble finding this box .

 

[TM48]

I'm sorry I didn't realize you already had the 6000. I'm trying to visualize your disconnect...is it just a 200 amp breaker? Or does it have any room for other breakers? You will need some panel to mount the 50 amp feed breaker for the inverter.
This is what I have on the outside of my house.

And the inverter side:

 

[dieselxj]

TM48 sorry i missed the last part of your last post. Yes i think i can just add another 200amp distribution center hopefully a bit smaller than the one i have, and that would do it i think except for the external cutoff, which i do not have today anyway.
so from the meter into a 200a main breaker panel... there is a 200a service disconnect at the top and then a 200a (or maybe 175a ) that feeds my 2nd 200a panel that runs the house., and the 50a inverter grid feed is in the there.
new better drawings coming up

 

[dieselxj]

tm48 the first 2 pics are the same box correct that is your meter with load. how much was that box??? and what is it called again,
if your middle pic has the meter loop on top of those breaker,
That is the thing i need.... i just wont get the " want" external shutdown

 

[dieselxj]

My system i not theoretical. All of the main components are purchased and on site. I just shut it all down to sort out this battery charging. I was able to run the house pretty well on the 6000xp and 10Kwh of the lifepower4 batts. With only 9x of my 20 panels installed on one string of the 6000xp. i also wanted to optimize my array maybe go to 12 panels and get a bit of a tilt on the mount going. I also have a 2 axis tracker, i wanted to play with LATER.

I am sure there are many flaws in my system but for now battery capacity is probably going to be the bigger issue, I have enough solar to charge the car, but not to charge the car at night when you need to charge mostly. I said it a long time ago as a joke but it is totally true
you need a battery basically the same size as your car battery if you want to charge in a reasonable time and at night
so you need a car battery to charge a car battery. simple rite

 

[dieselxj]

this is what i have today. the big green is the main breaker panel GE200a it has a 200a disconnect breaker at the top and how ever many circuits to run the house. Of note this is where i can install that mini slider transfer blocker plate that will only allow either the 200a or a 50a to be on at the same time. i don't think i will need this, as hopefully the 200a at the top of the main green breaker panel will be off for inverter operations all the time if i do this correctly.. On this box also are 3 output conduits, top left and 2 bottom center. there is a new ground rod at the meter ( the small conduit ) exit bottom of meter. and the 200a breaker box also has a ground rod. and yes they are 6 feet apart.
So as you can see i don't have a lot of room between meter loop and the breaker box. There is quite a bit of extra 002awg copper in there.
So a box like TM48 seems like it would work. i am not so sure about a snap in 200a breaker in the load center under the meter. Do they make a 200a snap in breaker???? but i think i can drop that to a 125 amp snap in breaker. i don't WANT to drop that low. but I know i can get a 125a snap in. What is the biggest snap in breaker for GE?

 

[TM48]

It looks to me that you will have to add another panel. The output of the inverter can return to your existing panel to feed the house circuits but you cannot simultaneously feed grid to the inverter from the same panel. It may be possible to add a panel and move some load circuits to the new one.

 

[dieselxj]

Good evening yes i will need some more components. For now i have decided to go ahead with the main service disconnect, in the form of a 200 amp outdoor rated safety switch. or a outdoor rated 200a service disconnect breaker in its own cabinet. The safety switch will then feed a small distribution panel, Basiclly it will be like that first hand drawn pic . i am still not sure exactly how i will get from the disconnect to my main breaker panel. But the grid input will be easy enough. here is a very bad sketch please let me know if there is a problem.
yes there are some redundancies in the breaker systems. I think i can do away with the 200a breaker in the 200, 50 a distribution panel, but i will need to sort out a pass through here, and i have not found a panel that can do that. i am pretty sure they exist, i just need to find one

 

[TM48]

If your power company will allow it (mine wouldn't) you could double lug the meter base and supply another panel that way. I had to replace my meter base with a combo panel.

 

[solar17007]

solar17007 That inverter does seem the way to go. No voltage conversions needed just stay at or below 480vdc for everything.

Is it really that simple,?

I did not see all of your inverter specs. It did say 480v input, is that for solar and battery input? When i was looking i saw a Victron, that said 480 input, but i could not tell if that was solar string voltage or battery input voltge. and i just found it hard to believe that Dala emulator could be that easy. I can be pretty (computer low voltage ignorant).
Did you have to do a pyro fuse replace in the tesla battery? Did you get a whole car or just a battery?

Yes it’s that simple, the 480 I believe is the battery (Tesla battery) and then it will also take hv for the pv arrays so that you can use smaller gauge wire etc

 

[solar17007]

solar17007 That inverter does seem the way to go. No voltage conversions needed just stay at or below 480vdc for everything.

Is it really that simple,?

I did not see all of your inverter specs. It did say 480v input, is that for solar and battery input? When i was looking i saw a Victron, that said 480 input, but i could not tell if that was solar string voltage or battery input voltge. and i just found it hard to believe that Dala emulator could be that easy. I can be pretty (computer low voltage ignorant).
Did you have to do a pyro fuse replace in the tesla battery? Did you get a whole car or just a battery?

I got just the full battery with the penthouse intact, I replaced the pyro fuse and then jumped the contacts inside the penthouse. The reason it’s easy is because the emulator is telling the Tesla battery controller that it is ok to close the contacts, and then the battery is using its bms etc.