Short_Shot
Solar Addict
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- Jul 13, 2021
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I agree. Which is why I'm so hot to build a travel trailer from the ground up vs trying to buy one. Getting excessive insulation in place is cheaper than doubling up on batteries for sure.
A newbie, a beautiful old off grid cabin, COLD wintertime temps and needing some SOLAR power
- Thread starter Hopitrout
- Start date
Hopitrout: Hey, beautiful site! I'm worried that on this forum people might think I'm pushing hot water panels, which is not the case. But, if that was my cabin, and I did not want to insulate the upstairs, I'd be looking at building a passive heat storage system, and possibly put in some hot water solar panels. Since you won't be there a lot, the only sane way would be to install a drain-back system. The components can be built from scratch (see Build It Solar site) and the cost is not high. Hot water is an awesome storage medium, and there are many things you can do with it.
Based strictly on the few pictures you posted, I don't see the need to have the solar so far away from the house. Are the trees blocking your Southern exposure completely? And, don't worry about 48v. The most important thing is to exercise safety precautions, no matter what voltage you choose. I cannot believe the thousands of videos on line that show people setting metal tools on top of batteries with exposed terminals! Oh my God!
If you elect to go with PV/batteries, take a look at lithium titanate batteries. (LTO) They don't have high power density, but they can be discharged and charged at much lower temperatures. Some claim down to -30F. They are not as common, and cost more too. But, what the heck, they might be just what you need.
And, like others have said, insulate the heck out of a space in the basement, and pay close attention to details and making sure you carefully seal things up.
Good luck!
Based strictly on the few pictures you posted, I don't see the need to have the solar so far away from the house. Are the trees blocking your Southern exposure completely? And, don't worry about 48v. The most important thing is to exercise safety precautions, no matter what voltage you choose. I cannot believe the thousands of videos on line that show people setting metal tools on top of batteries with exposed terminals! Oh my God!
If you elect to go with PV/batteries, take a look at lithium titanate batteries. (LTO) They don't have high power density, but they can be discharged and charged at much lower temperatures. Some claim down to -30F. They are not as common, and cost more too. But, what the heck, they might be just what you need.
And, like others have said, insulate the heck out of a space in the basement, and pay close attention to details and making sure you carefully seal things up.
Good luck!
Wellbuilt...that is actually a good idea, and might not be terribly difficult.
Wellbuilt and SolarPrep, Wellbuilt’s idea is definitely a good one, which I considered in the past. However, without getting into to much detail, I moved my cabin to its present location putting it on a new code complaint foundation. Though I haven’t gotten my occupancy certificate from the county yet, they’ve agreed (in compliance with the IEBC) to let me use my existing roof without having to rip it apart and build a 128lb/ft2 strucrural designed new roof as the snow load (map) spec is the same as where it came from. So no mods, otherwise I jeopardize my cooooool roof (no pun intended)…. But yes, Wellbuilt’s idea makes sense and is a good one.
That cabin must be 100years old , the ridge is perfectly straight it’s not going any where ?
You could just get a engineer to certifies it for 500 bucks or so .
Add 2” lows green board insulation on the bottom and tape the seams then run 2x4 sleepers a cross lag bolted into the log beams
Add 1” green board between the sleepers .
And reinstall the existing roof if it’s in good shape .
I’ve done this a few times and it makes a huge difference in heating and cooling .
You could just get a engineer to certifies it for 500 bucks or so .
Add 2” lows green board insulation on the bottom and tape the seams then run 2x4 sleepers a cross lag bolted into the log beams
Add 1” green board between the sleepers .
And reinstall the existing roof if it’s in good shape .
I’ve done this a few times and it makes a huge difference in heating and cooling .
It’s probably pushing 80 years old and the existing metal (2nd roof) is in great condition. Problem is that 128lb/ft2 snow load. I’ve met with 3 licensed (PEs) Idaho Structural Engineers, one who did an extensive analysis. 128 is a BIG-BIG snow number. Not that easy without enormous modifications, I promise. That said, they all completely understand that it is well built to have stood for so long in that really (snow wise) harsh environment, it’s just hard to show and give credit for old, existing structures. And my intent is never to change the interior portion of the ceiling structure.
12VoltInstalls
life passes by too quickly to not live in freedom
Having been in/around construction, building management, and materials for 35+ years I’d be thinking a, umm, refastening and sealing project would be in immediate order to, well, umm, insure it continues to exhibit durability and longevity into the future. Ahem.
And in the course of things it would happen to gain R12-ish which isn’t very much compared to R30 or R38 but WILL be an amazing 10times improvement over the present roof assembly. (source used/weathered boards for trim/visual dressing and the historic appearance can be maintained)
My thoughts exactly who would even know ?
It’s not like the building inspectors are Hanging around in the woods .
I would add insulation in a second , I can’t even get my inspector to drive out to see the place
I have to pick him up at the office and drive him up The mountain ⛰?
It’s not like the building inspectors are Hanging around in the woods .
I would add insulation in a second , I can’t even get my inspector to drive out to see the place
I have to pick him up at the office and drive him up The mountain ⛰?
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