diy solar

diy solar

A question on a battery build

alishac

New Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2022
Messages
66
So I can't figure out if I should DIY a battery or just buy one.
On docan they sell made catl 302ah 12v batteries with a 200a jbd Bluetooth bms to my door it would cost $1554 AUD
If I was to DIY the same thing it would cost $1700 AUD with same cells and same bms mainly cause of building or buying a battery
case and any wiring..etc I don't know if anyone has bought the docan power lithium 12v battery packs I spoke to daisy and she said
it has 200a continuous discharge but only 100a charge.. I would have thought being jbd it would be either max 200a or around 150a
yet daisy said the recommended is 50a which is strange for a 200a bms.

Anyway I saw a bms that made me think how did they build that.. It has eve 280K cells and with jbd bms 200a charge/discharge but the thing
I can't understand is the size.. its 520 long, 160 wide, 270 high.. I guess considered a slimline battery but I mean it have to be 2s wouldn't it be?
Though it says 4s1p but how do you do 4s when it is clearly 2 cells wide and 2 cells long.. I thought 4s meant 1 cell long to make a series of 4.

I'm a bit confused any help would be great.

Also this build is for a camper trailer I plan to do either 2x 280ah or 2x 302ah
 
Tell us why you think you need 200A in and out. What do you have to charge at 200A?
What are you going to power?

If a OTS - off the shelf - battery meets your needs and fits your budget, save yourself the hassle of assembling one.
You may also be a candidate for a higher volt system, or two batteries in parallel instead of one - to double up your amperage capacity for charge and discharge.

As an aside, I built a 230A battery for a 32' winnebago, and it supplies everything we need. [shrug]

For most the first step is a consumption assessment. It usually ends up being a wish-list for a small city. LOL Reducing consumption is a good first step towards independence.
 
The reason why I'd go 600ah is because I'm planning to have the camper trailer to be 95% electrical and 5% gas as a backup.
So 12/240v hot water system, I plan to use a induction stove for cooking, 1x 47L fridge, 1x 90L fridge/freezer, 1x 24" 12v tv, lots led lights,
12v travelbuddy camp oven, airfryer and a few 12v sockets. Also got a 50L fridge though may not take it. I will have 600w efte semi flex 47v solar on my rooftop tent roof and I got a 300w 70.8v solar blanket and yea this is allot but there is a site that has a very detailed solar calculator based in Australia and bases it off the Australian states and cities for winter and summer. I plan to travel around Australia or parts of it and in some parts you would need at least 500ah to survive offgrid for more then 5 days due winter and the certain states. The other thing is the gas backup would only be for cooking so everything else would depend on solar and battery.. If the weather was bad and overcast for a few days the battery will drain.. using the 2 fridges with freeze just that alone would be drawing 80-100ah over 24 hours so would need a big battery bank to last a few days offgrid if the weather turned overcast.

The charge at 100a isn't a issue.. though the only reason why I'd prefer more in a way is cause I have a 50amp dcdc and the roof solar is independent so I can run dcdc and solar at same time which would be around 107 amp max min 30-90amp while driving. I seen plenty of people in Australia with caravans and camper trailers with 500+ battery banks so its not a uncommon thing.

Also how would you do a slim battery with what I said?
 
Back
Top