A tip for sealing between panels if panels are the roofing

[Flunkyboi]

I needed an array and a mini pole barn for storage, so I went with pole barn posts and wood framing. My array is the slanted roof, so a way to water seal between panels was needed.

My solution was "seam binder" aluminum flooring straps and "camper seal" adhesive weather strip. Both 1 1/4" wide. The camper seal foam strip has adhesive on one side. Stick it to the underside of the aluminum strips, then screw the seam binder down between panels. Seam binder is the metal transition strip you see in doorways where different type flooring materials meet.

The metal binder strips have pre drilled holes every 6". Those got metal roofing screws. Leave a screw-width gap between panels.

Found all materials at my local Home Depot.

 

[mciholas]

Pics and links to products you used would greatly increase the helpfulness of your post.

Mike C.

 

[Flunkyboi]

Pics and links to products you used would greatly increase the helpfulness of your post.

Mike C.

Can't post pics, but "seam binder" strips are sold in various lengths (long ones, like mine are 10' long) aluminum strips you cut to length and cover a flooring material transition. Like in a door passage.

The "camper seal" is on a roll. It seals out wind, rain and dust where a camper shell meets a PU truck's side and front rim. It is foam with an adhesive on one side. The binder strip and seal I found at HD were both 1.25" wide.

 

[Backyard]

I'd use polyurethane sealant like sika 1A or equivalent between the panels. Leave a 3/16" to 1/4" gap and fill it with the sealant. HD usually has it in the concrete isle and not the paint section

If you still want to use transition strips, go for it. But the sealant should do well on it's own

 

[shadetree]

Your strips act as the "clamp" to attach the panel frame to the lumber they are laid upon? How are your rafters or purlins laid out? How do you manage horizontal seams and corners? Perhaps yours is a single row of panels and no horizontal seams.

 

[Flunkyboi]

Your strips act as the "clamp" to attach the panel frame to the lumber they are laid upon? How are your rafters or purlins laid out? How do you manage horizontal seams and corners? Perhaps yours is a single row of panels and no horizontal seams.

Because I was working solo, my panel orientation is landscape. 3 stacked on one row, right, three on left. One center seam, four horizontal. The aluminum strip down the center of the six panels has no silicon. The camper strip foam is adhered to the divider aluminum strip. That is screwed down. It does act as a hold down for the panels.

Everywhere there is a panel seam, there is a 2x4 underneath.

The four horizontal strips were then screwed down to cover the Seams. Those but up up to the vertical strip. I did run a bead of clear silicone in the upper side of each horizontal strip. A little bit on the vertical strip where the horizontal strips but there.

It has already suffered one heavy rain the other night. This was some sideways rain/wind. No roof leaks.

The way I bound the outer edges of the panels to the underlying framework was by carefully running T-25 screws from the wood framing, up, diagonally into the edge aluminum panel frames. Careful predrilling is needed there. The outer edges also have 3" drip rail. These outer, exposed seams also got a bead of clear silicone.

 

[Backyard]

My experience with silicone is that it will eventually come loose and start leaking. That's why I recommended polyurethane sealant. It's bond strength is higher then it's tear strength. Which is the opposite of silicone. Polyurethane will stretch 300% without loosing bond while silicone will pull apart or loosen.

If you want to stick with silicone, use GE Supreme 100% silicone. I've used many over the years doing commercial maintenance at hotels and such and it's the only one that seems to last.

 

[Flunkyboi]

My experience with silicone is that it will eventually come loose and start leaking. That's why I recommended polyurethane sealant. It's bond strength is higher then it's tear strength. Which is the opposite of silicone. Polyurethane will stretch 300% without loosing bond while silicone will pull apart or loosen.

If you want to stick with silicone, use GE Supreme 100% silicone. I've used many over the years doing commercial maintenance at hotels and such and it's the only one that seems to last.

Noted. I'd never heard of that stuff. I'm not real sure I even needed the silicone. There is already a closed cell foam strip for a seal. I just through in a bead on areas that might need extra waterproofing.