diy solar

diy solar

About to assemble my first system.

BreezyReputation

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Jul 15, 2022
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I think I've finally got all my parts, and I'm about to put it together.

I have a single Renogy RNG-100D-SS (Voc 24.3V, Isc 5.21A, Vmp 20.4V, Imp 4.91A)

The panel came with a Wanderer 10A Charge Controller (12v/24v 10A, maximum 12awg cable due to terminal size)

I found a 12V 35Ah AGM battery

I have a 410W inverter




Questions:
Is my charge controller able to handle this system, specifically the inverter load (estimated at ~33A)?

Do I need a dedicated BMS, or does the charge controller act as the BMS?

Are my fuses sized correctly? My understanding is that a fuse needs to be rated OVER the expected nominal current going through the wire, but UNDER the maximum rated current for the cable... e.g, I expect 10A from my CC to my battery...if I have a 5ft 12awg wire, would a 20A fuse be correct? (calculation tells me I need a 15A fuse; the cable should be able to handle up to 25A @ 6ft with a 3% voltage drop)

Where do I connect the inverter to the system? I believe the inverter will draw about 33A nominal. If I connect directly to the charge controller, I need to use 12awg, which supports maximum 25A. If I connect directly to the battery, I could use my 6awg which can handle 50A+ at the lengths I'm working with, BUT would still technically be on the same battery leads on the charge controller...do I need to worry about that current damaging the charge controller? or blowing my 20A fuse between the charge controller and battery?
 
Questions:
Is my charge controller able to handle this system, specifically the inverter load (estimated at ~33A)?
Yes, that panel shouldn't put out more than 6 amps, and the charge controller is rated for 10a. The inverter has nothing to do with the charge controller, see below.
Do I need a dedicated BMS, or does the charge controller act as the BMS?
For an AGM (or lead) battery, you don't need a BMS. Those are mostly for lithium cells.
Where do I connect the inverter to the system?
The inverter is going to be connected directly to your battery with a fuse, not to the SCC.
I believe the inverter will draw about 33A nominal. If I connect directly to the charge controller, I need to use 12awg, which supports maximum 25A. If I connect directly to the battery, I could use my 6awg which can handle 50A+ at the lengths I'm working with, BUT would still technically be on the same battery leads on the charge controller...do I need to worry about that current damaging the charge controller? or blowing my 20A fuse between the charge controller and battery?
You would either connect the battery to a set of bus bars, and then your solar charge controller / inverter to those bus bars, or you would use two separate sets of cabling; one set from the inverter, and one set from the charge controller, both with their own appropriate fuses.

That connection on the charge controller is normally for a small load, like DC lights or a small fan, and generally won't support something like an inverter.
 
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