Steve_S
Emperor Of Solar
Sadly, those busbars are Brass and not copper, as others pointed out Brass, especially the more recycled stuff (brass is one of the most recycled metals around), it get's "blonder" the more it is recycled. Blonde = less pure, orange Brass is more pure. Pure Copper busbars are far more expensive but are the best to carry current with minimal resistance. You can totally trust the Victron Busbars to meet & exceed their specifications without question. I use the Amomd ones because they make different designs up to 8-terminal bars as well as block format which many do not offer. They are also well proven to be exactly what they are and they indicate in their descriptions if Red Copper, or Brass etc unlike most others.
5000W Inverter at 51.2V will pull 100A from your batteries to deliver 5000W or 230V/21A. A typical High Frequency model can handle 2X surge or 10,000W (230V/42A) for up to 10 seconds or so +/-. A Low Frequency inverter can handle 3X surge or 15,000W. Sorry, I forget what the KStar can do. As a general rule, it is recommended that a system is wired/cabled for the highest "potential" which for you is 10,000W or 200A from battery. I would suggest nothing less than 1/0 AWG - 50mm2 of Ultra Fine Copper wire to handle that load potential along with properly crimped Tinned Copper (or nickel-plated but more $$) terminals. *the Amp Values shown are not corrected for losses.
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When you charge Lithium Based battery cells it is different than Lead Acid or others in a LOT of ways. Lithium Chemistries are far more efficient. Simply put, the LFP Chemistry max voltage is 3.650V, at 3.700 you are over charging but at 3.450 you are at the Top of the Working Voltage Range and well within the Safe "Allowable Voltage Range". With regards to amps taken during charge, as the cell charges to the "SET" voltage of 3.450, a 314AH cell can accept up to 157A (0.5-C) without issue (it will warm the cells) and that amperage will decrease as the cell tops up or saturates (depth of charge).
Example:
If you charge to 3.450 and stop the moment you hit that voltage, that is a "surface" charge and will drop significantly as power is cut off.
If you charge to 3.450 and allow Amps taken to drop down to 15A, that is "properly" 100% full charge and will only drop minimally as soon as charge power is off. It is Normal for Voltage to drop & settle as soon as incoming power stops.
You can allow the cells to charge to 3.450V and have the amps taken drop down to 1.0A without ANY WORRY about causing harms.
LASTLY: There are some posts which I cannot see as those users are Blocked and for GOOD reasons. I am just sharing knowledge from years of being at this and helping a lot of people. I am an electronics engineer (retired) by trade and no "kid" as I am North of 60 years old. My experiences include Military & Governmental Systems and out to commercial/consumer materials. It is all entirely up to you as to what information you want to take from my posts IF ANY, there's nothing in it for me in any way as I am just trying to guide you into a successfully functional system to cover what you want to do. Also I have a special attachment to Greece as my Godmother was an incredibly wise & tough greek woman... You know what I mean I am sure.
