AC coupling my Outback Skybox to a Solaredge inverter

newbostonconst

Solar Addict
I can tell you the APsystems QS1 4 channel inverters go to zero volts output instantly, as it appears in my system. There is no ramping or bleed off that I have observed.

My house runs on a mostly constant 500 watts so there isn't a large load.
 

Ampster

Renewable Energy Hobbyist
I can tell you the APsystems QS1 4 channel inverters go to zero volts output instantly, as it appears in my system. There is no ramping or bleed off that I have observed.
I would imagine the critical timing would be in milliseconds between the time a large load dropped and when a frequency shift would take place which would tell the micros to turn off.
 

Ampster

Renewable Energy Hobbyist
I am updating this thread because we have purchased a new home and I will be changing the configuration. I will be selling out current home and leaving the GT solar currently installed. i will be taking the Outback Skybox with me along with the used Sunpower panels installed on the patio cover. I have found a local resource who can help me install a DIY system and apply for a PTO on the new home.
 

GXMnow

Photon Sorcerer
I am updating this thread because we have purchased a new home and I will be changing the configuration. I will be selling out current home and leaving the GT solar currently installed. i will be taking the Outback Skybox with me along with the used Sunpower panels installed on the patio cover. I have found a local resource who can help me install a DIY system and apply for a PTO on the new home.
I bet you checked on how good the solar insolation will be before buying the new place. I do not plan on moving but I have thought about if I did. I would probably leave the Enphase system here, but my battery bank and Schneider XW-Pro would go with me. Looking forward to your reports on your new install.
 

Ampster

Renewable Energy Hobbyist
Yes, the WAF (wife aceptance factor) was the most important thing, but insolation had to be sufficient. Not ideal with a SouthEast main orientation but there are a couple of smaller SouthWest pitches. There is a shed where I can probably get 8 panels on South West pitch.

The biggest challenge electrically is the 100 Amp Zinsco main panel which has to go. Also it is very close to the natural gas riser. Even though they are both PGE the new regs require 36 inch horizontal distance. That will make the install simpler because I can pull a permit and set the new panel and when inspected call PGE to run a new drop. The new electrical riser will be 36 inches further from the pole so they will have to run a new drop unless they can add a splice. I am giving serious consideration to using a two meter panel because the EV rate on a seoarate meter is so much less expensive than the other EV rate. I will keep track of the costs because all the infrastructure upgrades will be included in my tax credit number.
The other challenge will be getting PG&E to approve the 8 kW of GT solar I want to install. There will be no history and the floor area criteria would suggest only 5 kW will be allowed according to PG&E guidelines. I will emphasize my two EVs and my plans for a HPWH and a new heat pump FAU. I will start a new thread once that begins.
 
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GXMnow

Photon Sorcerer
I totally agree, the Zinsco panel has to go. One building I worked at had one, we had a 3,000 watt lamp power supply fail. It only had a 30 amp 3 phase breaker on the 120-208 panel with a 200 amp main. It had shut down on an over temp. I checked the unit when I got there, and nothing was even warm, yet the temp switch was still open, disabling the main contactor. The heat sinks were dirty, so I cleaned it all out and the fan spun free, so I jumped the little temp switch with a clip lead and went to power it up. I heard the contactor pull in, and POP! the entire building went dark. The EM lights come on, I shut down the gear and check the main. Nope, all the breakers in the Zinsco panel were still in the on position, nothing had tripped. It actually tripped a 600 amp fuse on the 480 delta before the main transformer. The distribution panel after the main transformer was also Zinsco, so the 200 amp there didn't trip either. Those breakers were flat out useless. The electrician they brought in said that Zinsco had lost their UL cert back then. I wonder why? It turned out the lamp power supply did have one shorted diode in it. So a short on the secondary of the transformer at about 70 volts pulled enough current to blow a 600 amp fuse on a 480 volt feed.

I have mixed feelings about the dual meters. If you have grid tie solar on one meter, it will be exporting while the other meter is drawing the power you are making to charge your car. Can you put grid tie solar on the EV Car meter? Since it is a lower rate, you would certainly want that to be a zero export system. With 2 inverters like my Schneider XW-Pro, you could have one on each meter, but have a common battery bank. Have DC solar charge the battery bank, and have AC coupled solar on the house side. All the DC solar charges batteries, and the AC solar back feeds through to grid if you are not using all the power. When you charge your cars, the inverter will see the load and ramp up and invert from the batteries. You could set it for a fixed amount of current, or program it to ramp to hold zero export, or even export some if you wanted. During a power failure, the DC solar still charge the batteries, and the AC solar can charge through the house load inverter to the same battery bank again. That will allow you to still charge the car from stored power as well as anything coming from solar. This should also work on a pair of SkyBoxes. Do they allow multiple units to share the battery? Too bad we don't have many choices on V2X yet. The only one available so far only works with a Nissan Leaf because the unit requires a CHADEMO connector. CCS with DC fast charge should be able to do it, but it is not available yet. And Tesla is working on a system as well.
 
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