AC to DC Charger Specifications

[time2roll]

I asked about the wizard compatibility with my charger and they didn’t answer that question but said this instead:

“
Hello,

You can add the PD9105 for charging lithium batteries.

You will just have to remember to press the button each time you want to charge the lithium batteries.

Each time you press the button, you will get 4 hours of charging at 14.6 volts. After 4 hours the converter will drop back down to a 13.6 volt output.



If you don’t want to press the button each time you want to charge, then you could add our 14.6 TCMS module.

Once you connect the TCMS module to the converter, you will have a constant output voltage of 14.6. no need to worry about pressing the button. The unit does not drop back down to 13.6”

Is it okay to charge lithium batteries at 14.6 constantly with no float?

Who did you talk to? I believe you would have to get a PD9100L series converter to get 14.6 volts and I do not recommend this product.

All the Progressive Dynamics literature says 14.4 volts, 13.6 and 13.2 volts with the standard 9100 series converter. This has been around more than a decade and works well with lead-acid batteries. Should work fine with LFP.

https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/charge-wizard/pd9105-tcms-charge-wizard/

https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Charge-Wizard-Tri-Fold-Flyer.pdf

Call them back and tell them you have lead-acid flooded battery and see what they say.

 

[bajajoaquin]

Inverter/chargers combine and inverter, charger and automatic transfer switch.

Discrete inverters have gotten just about zero RnD since the the inverter/charger has eaten it's lunch.
Its even worse for RV converters, even the "lithium" converters are a joke.

The killer feature that inverter/chargers have is an embedded computer which allows for lots of features and granular configuration.
The most important for is the charge profile.
Typically you can choose the charge voltage, charge termination policy and float voltage.
The second most important bit is low voltage disconnect.
That means your inverter can stop inverting before the BMS has to disconnect the battery.
The BMS protects the battery and the inverter/charger protects the BMS.
Also the automatic transfer switch in an inverter/charger makes sure the ac current is synchronized before switching so that even your most sensitive loads won't even notice a thing.
With a olds style automatic transfer switches you will probably have to reset the clock on your microwave every time you switch power sources.

Finally discrete chargers are almost always high frequency which means their surge capacity is 2x for 20 milli seconds which is only important to the marketing department.
Most inverter/chargers are low frequency with a big honking iron transformer, these have surge capacity often rated in minutes.

Inverter/chargers cost more but they are better.
If you need 2 or more of inverter or charger or automatic transfer switch I suggest an inverter/charger is the way to go.

That’s good to know, thanks. Have any specific brands or models you would recommend?

 

[bajajoaquin]

Who did you talk to? I believe you would have to get a PD9100L series converter to get 14.6 volts and I do not recommend this product.

All the Progressive Dynamics literature says 14.4 volts, 13.6 and 13.2 volts with the standard 9100 series converter. This has been around more than a decade and works well with lead-acid batteries. Should work fine with LFP.

https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/charge-wizard/pd9105-tcms-charge-wizard/

https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Charge-Wizard-Tri-Fold-Flyer.pdf

Call them back and tell them you have lead-acid flooded battery and see what they say.

I received an email response from their tech support line.

Before I call them, I guess I need a bit more of a primer on the specifics of what charge profile is required for LiFeSO4 batteries. If you don’t feel like typing, pointing me to a good resource would be appreciated.

But the net net of it is that the charger I have will be adequate for my needs in the near term and not harm my battery.

 

[John Frum]

That’s good to know, thanks. Have any specific brands or models you would recommend?

Samlex Evo's are my goto.
This is the one I would recommend for you https://www.donrowe.com/samlex-evo-1212f-hw-pure-sine-inverter-charger-p/evo-1212f-hw.htm

 

[bajajoaquin]

Wow. $600 is a bit pricey.

As I reread the response from tech support, I see that he was not really suggesting I buy the wizard but instead suggesting that I buy the module that charges at a constant 14.6v. I’m still a little uncomfortable with understanding standing how these things operate so I don’t just look at that and see if it’s a good idea or bad.

Any reason I shouldn’t buy it for my application? It’s $8.

 

[John Frum]

Wow. $600 is a bit pricey.

As I reread the response from tech support, I see that he was not really suggesting I buy the wizard but instead suggesting that I buy the module that charges at a constant 14.6v. I’m still a little uncomfortable with understanding standing how these things operate so I don’t just look at that and see if it’s a good idea or bad.

Any reason I shouldn’t buy it for my application? It’s $8.

The Samlex Evo is a low frequency inverter, with a state of the art charger and an automatic transfer switch.
If you need any 2 of those 3 functions Its a good value.
I should also mention that is does each of those functions better than the discrete alternative.

Charging your batteries with 14.6 volts will very likely trip the bms every time you charge.
Which might be a small mercy for your battery as it won't be exposed to that high charge voltage that long.
BMSs are not meant to be used for charge logic and it may failed closed at some point, leaving you no bms protection.