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Add Eco-worthy to existing EG4 V1 batteries?

Cardude

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Jun 25, 2023
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153
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Texas
I could not find the exact answer to my question using search.

I’m currently using Solar Assistant and a Victron shunt to monitor my two older (2 years old) EG4 lifepower4 51.2 V1 server rack batteries. I would like to add more battery capacity.

Since I’m not using EG4 coms can I just add a cheap Eco-worthy battery to the stack?

Whats the process to do that? Remove the two eg4 batteries from the Eg4 3000 inverter, charge the new battery up to 100% SOC according to the shunt, then parallel them all together ?

Thanks for any help!
 
Since I’m not using EG4 coms can I just add a cheap Eco-worthy battery to the stack?
Yes, as long as they are both 16S.
Whats the process to do that? Remove the two eg4 batteries from the Eg4 3000 inverter, charge the new battery up to 100% SOC according to the shunt, then parallel them all together ?
I'd charge them all to ~55V then parallel them, you can also get them really close at any voltage and parallel them.
 
If it were me, I would try to have the resting voltages of all of the batteries be within 0.1V as measured with a voltmeter.
This is to avoid a big spark and excessive current flow between batteries when you hook them up in parallel.
Charging them independently is probably best.

Is the ecoworthy protected with a breaker? If not, a fuse for it might be a good idea.
 
If it were me, I would try to have the resting voltages of all of the batteries be within 0.1V as measured with a voltmeter.
This is to avoid a big spark and excessive current flow between batteries when you hook them up in parallel.
Charging them independently is probably best.

Is the ecoworthy protected with a breaker? If not, a fuse for it might be a good idea.
Yes it appears to have a breaker.


So charge the existing EG4 batteries to 55v, as suggested by a previous poster. Then disconnect them and charge the new Eco-worthy to 55v using the inverter and shunt. Then measure across all batteries to ensure 55v. Then connect them all together? Does that sound like a good plan?
 
Yes many of us do it including myself. Make sure the LP4V1 has the latest software. That'll make the BMS 100% SOC reset voltage to 56.6v

The E-W 56.8V so you really should go in the software and change that value otherwise the eco-worthy will only go up to 99% on the SOC.

It won't hurt anything just makes it more compatible
 
I charge everything up to 100%. Let them sit for a little bit and connect them together. Technically as long as they're voltages are the same you can connect them together at any SOC point and then charge them all up.

Have everything charged and sit for an hour connecting them up is worked really well for me. They all start out with the same SOC approximately the same voltage and it gives you a chance to make sure that all your batteries are reaching the same high level voltage.

New batteries are notorious for having a cell out of balance causing the pack to stop charging before it can get to its 100% reset voltage.

That requires you to cycle the new battery a couple times to beat it in the submission.

Trying not to get too complicated here 😆
 
Yes many of us do it including myself. Make sure the LP4V1 has the latest software. That'll make the BMS 100% SOC reset voltage to 56.6v

The E-W 56.8V so you really should go in the software and change that value otherwise the eco-worthy will only go up to 99% on the SOC.

It won't hurt anything just makes it more compatible
I’ve never updated the software on my existing batteries. I’ve always had trouble with coms on this inverter and batteries, so was never confident enough to get into the BMS of the batteries.

Is there a simple way to do this for dummies?
 
I’ve never updated the software on my existing batteries. I’ve always had trouble with coms on this inverter and batteries, so was never confident enough to get into the BMS of the batteries.

Is there a simple way to do this for dummies?
I use the computer software and the RS485 to USB adapter that came with the battery. It will work on both E-W and EG4.

You don't have to do the firmware if you are confident that everything is working properly. If you are using closed loop on the EG4 keep it that way and just add the E-W to it.
 
I’ve never updated the software on my existing batteries. I’ve always had trouble with coms on this inverter and batteries, so was never confident enough to get into the BMS of the batteries.

Is there a simple way to do this for dummies?
Dont worry about adjusting settings at all. You are tracking soc via smart shunt so ecoworthies/eg4 soc showing 99% doesn't matter at all.
 
All good Bob you are the 0.01 % :)
I'm not sure if that is good or bad :LOL:

I consider myself an "Optimizer" because I make things work much better than the would otherwise. I have made a carrier out of it.
 

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I'm not sure if that is good or bad :LOL:

I consider myself an "Optimizer" because I make things work much better than the would otherwise. I have made a carrier out of it.
Its good but I wouldn't want average users thinking they need to take the cover off and top balance, add active balancers etc. Its fine as it ships to deliver rated capacity.
 
I figured the good lord in his great wisdom gave me all the problem batteries with horrible cell differential knowing that I would be able to fix it.

Saves the others from having to mess with it. "She" also knows that I would have fun doing it

I take one for the team
 
So I got my battery in, and I’m trying to figure the best (or easiest?) way to connect it.

I wish I could just connect it to the outside battery shown in the pic for simplicity, but I think I need to cable it to another T fuse which connects to the positive bus bar. This cable will be a bit longer than the other cables however. Is that OK?

On the negative side can I just connect it to the Victron smart shunt along with the other two cables? That seems like lots of cables on that smart shunt. Do I have that configured correctly? This cable will also be a bit longer than the existing cables, and I don’t know if that’s OK.
 

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You may need to switch to a longer bolt on your smartshunt you may run out of threads with three lugs stacked.
Ok thanks. But that is an acceptable way to do this, have all those cable on that shunt terminal? If it’s Ok that’s great. I’d rather not have to add another bus bar as I’m running out of room.
 
You may need to switch to a longer bolt on your smartshunt you may run out of threads with three lugs stacked.
I had to get a longer bolt for my smart shunt for the same reason. DM me if you want one for free ( I have a couple extras). Just pay postage.
 
I use the computer software and the RS485 to USB adapter that came with the battery. It will work on both E-W and EG4.

You don't have to do the firmware if you are confident that everything is working properly. If you are using closed loop on the EG4 keep it that way and just add the E-W to it.
But change your inverter setting to Lead Acid? I have same setup. Closed loop on 3 x EG4 Wall Mounts. I then parallel 5 x Eco-worthy rack mounts. I thought about leaving closed loop and Li Ion and just monitoring EW with their app.
 
But change your inverter setting to Lead Acid? I have same setup. Closed loop on 3 x EG4 Wall Mounts. I then parallel 5 x Eco-worthy rack mounts. I thought about leaving closed loop and Li Ion and just monitoring EW with their app.
User defined mode not Lead Acid.
 
Ok thanks. But that is an acceptable way to do this, have all those cable on that shunt terminal? If it’s Ok that’s great. I’d rather not have to add another bus bar as I’m running out of room.
You could parallel your batteries directly to each other eliminating one wire going to your shunt.
 

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