diy solar

diy solar

Advice on my first build, off-grid cabin

Very simple. I don't believe all the hype. They "SAY" you can drain Li to 100%. They "SAY" you can't discharge lead-acid more than 50%.

But, look at these to graphs size by side. The one of the right is for my Rolls battery.
View attachment 105944View attachment 105946
What the graphs show is that draining an Li battery to 100% drastically shortens it lifespan, just like lead-acid. In fact, depending on the rate of discharge, maybe Li is worse then lead-acid. Even the typical 80% discharge is still quite damaging.

So, I don't believe the hype can justify the extravagant price premium of Li.

I see! Yeah, that seems very reasonable. If both can easily give you 4000+ cycles at 50%, it's just up to the storage considerations I guess.
What would I have to be wary of while storing Lead Acid batteries in what is essentially my bedroom?
 
What would I have to be wary of while storing Lead Acid batteries in what is essentially my bedroom?
I had my first set in the living room. For the very first commissioning charge of the brand-new batteries, there was sulfur smell. After that, nothing. I would not be concerned.
 
Are these like the cigarette plug/USB adapters available for in-car phone charging?
I'm just wondering whether to bother creating outlets in the cabin. The 12V system is meant to keep the fridge and lights running primarily, with a separate battery for phone/laptop use. I might as well just hard wire the fridge and lights to the fuse box, no?
This is one of the devices I’ve incorporated

All my 12V runs from / is wired to a BlueSea atc fuse block.

I do NOT run anything from ANY typical 120V devices with the exception of milliwatt lights that are switched with typical household light switches but they are less than 10% of the 120VAC amps, less than 5% now that I said that.
 
I had my first set in the living room. For the very first commissioning charge of the brand-new batteries, there was sulfur smell. After that, nothing. I would not be concerned.
Ok, good to know. I'm moving forward with my shortlist - found a good offer on a Nickel Iron bank recently and am very tempted to pull the trigger. What do you think of this technology?
And I agree, I'm finding it hard to commit to LiFePo4 for the extra price, considering I can't find any real-world experience reports from owners of LiFePo, stating they really do last 20 years, or 4000 cycles...
 
This is one of the devices I’ve incorporated

All my 12V runs from / is wired to a BlueSea atc fuse block.

I do NOT run anything from ANY typical 120V devices with the exception of milliwatt lights that are switched with typical household light switches but they are less than 10% of the 120VAC amps, less than 5% now that I said that.
That's an awesome outlet to have, may buy one or two of those. Thanks
Which BlueSea fuse block did you go for?
Do you have a tiny home, a boat, or a cabin?
 
That's an awesome outlet to have, may buy one or two
They have a switch to turn off- bonus
Which BlueSea fuse block did you go for?
The 12-circuit with negative bus
Do you have a tiny home, a boat, or a cabin?
I have a couple boat projects, one almost complete. :) Just messing with you but still: I have 200W of windynation panels and a 10A Epever mppt already purchased for the cabin top. That should handle the vhf, stereo, sonar, and the gps just fine, but the coffeemaker will put a dent in the batteries.

I have a 24’ RV with factory insulation including the floors. This is the second one I’ve owned of this model; the prior didn’t have the insulated floors nor the aluminum skin underneath. Huge difference in winter.

I have added insulation, especially the ceiling. I built interior storm panels to swap out with screen panels. I lined some ‘hidden areas’ with reflectix or foil-faced foam board. Rerouted water lines so they cannot freeze. Swapped in a 120V fridge. Other little mods to make it intellectually/emotionally comfortable. 800/1000W of panels.
 
Back
Top